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y2kbaja
Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2016
Posts: 93
Location: Sacramento
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 Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2021 5:48 pm Post subject: Body Fitment, lift needed? |
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| I test fit my Joe Poty tub on my pan and bam, it hits the trans bell housing. I could cut out the back and re-glass it in to clear but after looking some more I found that I will also hit the shock towers with the body if I don't put at least a 1 1/2" both lift on. Is it common to have to put a body lift to clear the shocks and transmission? My plan is to build a 1 1/2" lift with 1 1/2" square tubing. |
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jspbtown
Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2004
Posts: 5156
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| Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2021 9:24 am Post subject: Re: Body Fitment, lift needed? |
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Sometimes bodies are designed for swingaxle pans and the IRS has issues with clearance.
Not sure if thats the issue or not. Could be just body sag as well.
Lifts work well. |
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Dale M.
Samba Member
Joined: April 12, 2006
Posts: 20377
Location: Just a tiny bit west of Yosemite Valley
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| Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2021 10:47 am Post subject: Re: Body Fitment, lift needed? |
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| jspbtown wrote: |
Sometimes bodies are designed for swingaxle pans and the IRS has issues with clearance.
Not sure if thats the issue or not. Could be just body sag as well.
Lifts work well. |
Only problem with JP Sand Rover body on a IRS chassis I had was battery box hit the IRS swing arm.... Cut 2 inches off battery box and glassed in new bottom... Problem solved....
What you do depends on what you want, if you want low sleek look you fix body contact issues, if you want to look like sitting deep in a bathtub, you use body lift....
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“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.
"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
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All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ... |
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dustymojave
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2007
Posts: 5802
Location: Lake LA, Mojave Desert, SoCal
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| Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2021 2:55 pm Post subject: Re: Body Fitment, lift needed? |
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If you make your own body lift, be aware that where the lift slopes up over the tunnel at the front and back, the lift is NOT 1.5" vertical.
It would be best to install the sides of the lift, make top and bottom plates for the lift over the tunnel from steel strap, then make templates for the space between the upper and lower plates and tack the pieces in place with the body still on, then weld them completely after you take the body off. But due to warpage, you should probably keep the lift clamped to the pan while welding. To minimize warpage, you could weld short sections (stitch weld), then use seam sealer caulk to seal it up. Or, you could braze it.
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Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet. |
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y2kbaja
Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2016
Posts: 93
Location: Sacramento
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| Posted: Thu Jul 29, 2021 10:12 am Post subject: Re: Body Fitment, lift needed? |
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Damn, I would have never thought about the angle slope being different than the flat plane. Thanks for that heads up.
While I don't really want the 'lift' for ride height I'm ok with the seating position being sunk into the tub more. I'm wanting the seats as low as possible anyway.
I think overall building a subframe and keeping the tunnel only I will be better off all around. |
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