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Help me build the baddest 67 Vert out there please!
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Rome
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2021 4:49 pm    Post subject: Re: Bought my First 1967 Convertible. What is right and whats wrong? Reply with quote

Nice going with your purchase. For the money, you have what appears to be a very solid basis for an attractive Beetle, though you're in for a lot of effort and time to finish it. It'll be "clean" work instead of having to deal with rust repair and body damage.

The turn signal switch is missing from the steering column. You'll need one that fits 1966 and 1967, not an earlier one. Those 2 years have the high beam dimmer switch inside the turn signal stalk. Your car has the old style- thru '65- foot-operated dimmer switch that would be mounted to the upper left of the clutch pedal on the firewall. You can't use a '68 or later switch because that contains the ignition key instead of having it on the dash like yours.

Your seats would likely be from a 1970, as that was the only year where those slim headrests was used together with the sliding rails that fit the "narrow" seat tracks on the floorpan. The same style seatbacks were also used on '71 and '72 but on those, the sliding rails were wider to fit onto wider, "T"-shaped tracks on the floor. We can clearly see that your tracks are the narrow type. The '71 and '72 seats will "fit" onto your tracks but there will be lots of twisting movement because there is very little direct contact of the narrow track within the wide rails. If you have '70 seats, I'd consider keeping them due to the safety aspect of the headrests.

Your taillights are indeed '68 or '69 with the integrated reverse lamps. Unfortunately there is a height difference due to inattentive installation; the right one is about an inch higher up the fender than the left one. Having those next-generation taillamps is the biggest visual clue that the car is a hodgepodge of parts. The only benefit to them is that you don't need the separate "pod" style chrome reverse lamps that were only used on the '67. I don't think that the '67 style taillamps (same as from '62 thru '67) will fit into the same mounting holes as your '68 taillamps; though likely one of the 2 holes will be the same. Don't fit '67 taillamps without measuring that their mounting holes are the same height up from the bottom edge, since many people do that and don't notice the mismatch.

Your engine also has the correct-style ignition coil bracket Very Happy even though it's incorrectly painted black. It has the rounded ends instead of the telltale aftermarket bracket with the squared ends that you can spot from 10' away. The engine photo that rcooled posted is lovely as to correct details. Strip off that black paint from the coil bracket with paint remover or Goo-Gone after you take the coil out (single screw). Then add a nice "12 Volt" sticker from a Porsche parts vendor to the coil, whereby you apply the sticker so that the print is oriented "upside down" when the coil is in the installed position.

Your intake manifold has been patched on the left side, on that smaller diameter metal pipe that bends downward. That's the preheat tube that leads hot exhaust gas through the intake manifold and keeps the neck going up to the carburetor warm. This warmth prevents the formation of condensation. The preheat pipes tend to clog up on the inside from the carbon carried up from the exhaust gasses over the decades, as well as rusting on the outside like yours is. To replace the manifold with a better one, you'll best remove the engine so you can lift off the fan shroud together with the generator to give enough room to take out the manifold...

As for those Fuchs wheels- the extreme width and outward dish will cause especially the rears to sit way proud/outboard of the fenders. Not recommended. The chromed 5-spokes that came with your car would be a much better fit. They are 5.5" wide and with reasonable tires such as 165/80 or 195/65 they will come close to, but probably not stand proud of the fender edges. But you don't seem to like those.

Note that the correct steel wheels/rims for the '67 are ALL BLACK as per rcooled's photos. The rims have "sausage" shaped cooling slots instead of the "smooth" style of your spare wheel. The same general wheels were used on '66 and '67 Beetle sedans, but on them, the outer portion of the wheel was ivory colored. The reason the cabrio wheels are all black is because of the fitment of the "beauty rings" per rcooled's photos. Those were standard equipment on the '66 and '67 Cabrios. If the outer section of the rims were ivory, you'd see them through the rings' cooling slots. Of course you can find sedan rims and just paint the outer section a semi-gloss black.
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Achtung360
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2021 5:11 pm    Post subject: Re: Bought my First 1967 Convertible. What is right and whats wrong? Reply with quote

aa390392 wrote:
My early 67 2nd. mth of production had OG sloping towel bars. An OG car.
IMO you are so far away about wheels and tires,

Im also a bit confused, just a few days ago you posted a yellow Kab. That you passed on.
Its now friday and you researched/purchased and had this red one delivered already? That is extremely fast service.? What transport service did you use?
Tomas


Explain to me why waste money on replacing rotten tires on rusted worn rims I wont be using? The other car in pieces I posted about... When I was looking for someone to work on my car I called a local shop. The owner of the shop said "Hey, I have this car which do you want it 67 vert?" Like I said "If someone offered me another rust free 67 convertible I would buy it again."
Anyway, I ended up finding a certified and retired mechanic from a popular air cooled shop.

Not sure what it gets you to come across as being so negative. Maybe you have some issues besides car problems to work on.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2021 5:12 pm    Post subject: Re: Bought my First 1967 Convertible. What is right and whats wrong? Reply with quote

By the way, on the topic of wheels, I noticed some American Eagle 5-spokes came with the car. A full set? Those are the good ones. Why don't you run those if you want to go custom and 5-spoke? They'll bolt right on and be close to stock in width and offset.

I say "good ones" because there's another style of EMPI 5-spoke going around that have wide, flat-ish spokes, known as the GT-5. But you got the sexy ones.
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Achtung360
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2021 5:41 pm    Post subject: Re: Bought my First 1967 Convertible. What is right and whats wrong? Reply with quote

Rome wrote:
Nice going with your purchase. For the money, you have what appears to be a very solid basis for an attractive Beetle, though you're in for a lot of effort and time to finish it. It'll be "clean" work instead of having to deal with rust repair and body damage.

The turn signal switch is missing from the steering column. You'll need one that fits 1966 and 1967, not an earlier one. Those 2 years have the high beam dimmer switch inside the turn signal stalk. Your car has the old style- thru '65- foot-operated dimmer switch that would be mounted to the upper left of the clutch pedal on the firewall. You can't use a '68 or later switch because that contains the ignition key instead of having it on the dash like yours.

Your seats would likely be from a 1970, as that was the only year where those slim headrests was used together with the sliding rails that fit the "narrow" seat tracks on the floorpan. The same style seatbacks were also used on '71 and '72 but on those, the sliding rails were wider to fit onto wider, "T"-shaped tracks on the floor. We can clearly see that your tracks are the narrow type. The '71 and '72 seats will "fit" onto your tracks but there will be lots of twisting movement because there is very little direct contact of the narrow track within the wide rails. If you have '70 seats, I'd consider keeping them due to the safety aspect of the headrests.

Your taillights are indeed '68 or '69 with the integrated reverse lamps. Unfortunately there is a height difference due to inattentive installation; the right one is about an inch higher up the fender than the left one. Having those next-generation taillamps is the biggest visual clue that the car is a hodgepodge of parts. The only benefit to them is that you don't need the separate "pod" style chrome reverse lamps that were only used on the '67. I don't think that the '67 style taillamps (same as from '62 thru '67) will fit into the same mounting holes as your '68 taillamps; though likely one of the 2 holes will be the same. Don't fit '67 taillamps without measuring that their mounting holes are the same height up from the bottom edge, since many people do that and don't notice the mismatch.

Your engine also has the correct-style ignition coil bracket Very Happy even though it's incorrectly painted black. It has the rounded ends instead of the telltale aftermarket bracket with the squared ends that you can spot from 10' away. The engine photo that rcooled posted is lovely as to correct details. Strip off that black paint from the coil bracket with paint remover or Goo-Gone after you take the coil out (single screw). Then add a nice "12 Volt" sticker from a Porsche parts vendor to the coil, whereby you apply the sticker so that the print is oriented "upside down" when the coil is in the installed position.

Your intake manifold has been patched on the left side, on that smaller diameter metal pipe that bends downward. That's the preheat tube that leads hot exhaust gas through the intake manifold and keeps the neck going up to the carburetor warm. This warmth prevents the formation of condensation. The preheat pipes tend to clog up on the inside from the carbon carried up from the exhaust gasses over the decades, as well as rusting on the outside like yours is. To replace the manifold with a better one, you'll best remove the engine so you can lift off the fan shroud together with the generator to give enough room to take out the manifold...

As for those Fuchs wheels- the extreme width and outward dish will cause especially the rears to sit way proud/outboard of the fenders. Not recommended. The chromed 5-spokes that came with your car would be a much better fit. They are 5.5" wide and with reasonable tires such as 165/80 or 195/65 they will come close to, but probably not stand proud of the fender edges. But you don't seem to like those.

Note that the correct steel wheels/rims for the '67 are ALL BLACK as per rcooled's photos. The rims have "sausage" shaped cooling slots instead of the "smooth" style of your spare wheel. The same general wheels were used on '66 and '67 Beetle sedans, but on them, the outer portion of the wheel was ivory colored. The reason the cabrio wheels are all black is because of the fitment of the "beauty rings" per rcooled's photos. Those were standard equipment on the '66 and '67 Cabrios. If the outer section of the rims were ivory, you'd see them through the rings' cooling slots. Of course you can find sedan rims and just paint the outer section a semi-gloss black.



Thanks for all the good information. Yah, the seats were just thrown in when the originals were lost for something to sit on temporality. There is actually and neither line up correctly on the rails.

The previous owner never put insurance on the car for the 10 years he owned it only started the restoration which looks like it took place 5 years or so ago.

The ignition coil isn't black but was dirty and appears to be chrome or been chromed but "original..." The mechanic started rubbing on it and said something about "he hasn't seen one in a long time and its chrome."

The steer column turn signal lever with the wire harness is luckily in the box of parts.

I think there is some confusion with one or two people here. I obviously know I'll be spending $10-15k to slam this car which I have every intention of doing. I want to design the car and finish it off how I want it. how I want it. I'm happy I won't be spending $10k-15 going into metal work and body work. I'll need everyones help spending the money wisely. My car won't be kept 67 stock but I will put up all the original parts in case they are ever needed.


Last edited by Achtung360 on Fri Jul 30, 2021 10:51 pm; edited 1 time in total
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67rustavenger Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2021 5:56 pm    Post subject: Re: Bought my First 1967 Convertible. What is right and whats wrong? Reply with quote

Busstom wrote:
67conv wrote:
Big Bill wrote:
Busstom, you may be correct about the early 67s not getting non-slopping towel bars. My early (Mid-Sept. of 66) 67 didn't have the sloping bars and I believe them to have been OG to the car. It did have the 67 front towel bar that pocks out in the center. Seems like a person can learn something new almost every day here on the Samba.


This is all part of the "fun" of the '67's. Yes, most definitely there were early non-sloping '67 towel rail over riders (same as '66 and prior years), and then a "sloped" modification was made sometime after the 1967 production year got underway. I think this was in late September or October of 1966, if my memory is correct. I have an August 1966 production convertible which has the original old, non sloping style over riders.

Good info, another mystery solved Smile

Hold on!
My Aug.66 built 67 has the sloping towel bars. This is the original rear bumper. That was on the car as delivered. The car has never been dented in the rear, as confirmed by careful study of the inner rear fender wells.

Has anyone ever confirmed the bumper change by searching the "Progressive Refinements" notes?

The Jury is still out debating this issue. Very Happy
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Rome
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2021 7:06 pm    Post subject: Re: Bought my First 1967 Convertible. What is right and whats wrong? Reply with quote

Quote:
I want to design the car and finish it off how I want it.
That's fine. Any shiny alloy rims will look great against the bright red body color. I still think that the Fuchs alloys you are considering will be much too wide for your stock-width fenders. You can buy narrower, 15" diameter Fuchs replicas (e.g., 4.5", 5.5", 6.0" widths) that will fit better, especially if you buy brake drums that are already drilled for the 911 bolt pattern so that you won't need to fit adapters that create extra width.

Are you handy with vehicle wiring? Your trunk shot has lots of disconnected wires, but many look like they are factory colors. You can find an excellent factory wiring diagram here. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiring/bug67.jpg The wiring colors in the diagram should be the same as those in the car, unless POs modified some of the car wires with generically colored ones.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2021 7:20 pm    Post subject: Re: Bought my First 1967 Convertible. What is right and whats wrong? Reply with quote

67conv wrote:
Achtung360 wrote:
The top frame metal seems to be in excellent condition and work fine but all rotten wood or missing.


Do yourself a huge favor, and save / use that original top frame - since it's in decent condition. It's another thing in the plus column! (provided it's originally from THIS car) All the wooden bows and pieces can be bought as separate replacement components. STAY AWAY from aftermarket things such as convertible top frames! I can't imagine the nightmares you'd have trying to get something like an aftermarket ("one size fits all"...etc etc) frame to properly fit or function. Rear window glass and metal window frames are available as used oem parts from time to time on the Samba, and not '67 specific. Again, avoid aftermarket here too.

Please post more pictures of what you have so we can help determine more clearly where you stand - including the "awful" wheels. The original slotted wide 5 wheels were only used in '66 - '67, and just look RIGHT on a '67. It's your car - so do what you want to with it. Very Happy But lowering / "Fuch"-ing it up / "rodding" a '67 convertible will likely deface and devalue it.

For the rear bumper rails, it's a somewhat subtle difference between the early / late rails as the late ones descend downward to meet the bumper blade. Early are as all prior rear bumpers '66 and earlier, Later rails have a slight downward "slope" from the bumperettes down to the blade for improved deck lid clearance.

Late 67 rear bumper

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.





Maybe you have a question about the rear bumper( 67rustavenger) but the rest of us who know, know that these bumpers on the car arent original. This respondant has already been nice enough to post pictures. They are RIGHT...........you, not so much.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2021 8:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Bought my First 1967 Convertible. What is right and whats wrong? Reply with quote

Wheels are you sure?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I'm the second owner of my 67 and the PO stated that the car had never had the bumpers replaced.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2021 8:41 pm    Post subject: Re: Bought my First 1967 Convertible. What is right and whats wrong? Reply with quote

67rustavenger, I don't have a copy of Progressive Refinements to refer to, but I've had 2 VERY original August 1966 built '67's, the first one a sedan I purchased from the original owner with 52,000 miles on it in 1985. Never hit or had anything replaced on it before I purchased it. Original chrome bumpers tend to do well in So Cal (especially the rear ones!) It did NOT have the sloping towel rails...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The second picture is my currently owned 1967 convertible, also built in August 1966, also without the sloped towel rails...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The third picture is aircooled's (Richard's) August '66 built '67 convertible, all original low miles, second owner, (THE "gold standard" for early 67 convertible references)...again, with the non sloped towel rails.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I'm sure that somebody with a copy of Progressive Refinements will chime in on this tired old subject eventually, but it's always been my understanding that along with the other "mid year" 1967 detail changes, the towel rails were also changed. Maybe this took place a week or two into production in August?? You tell me.. Very Happy All I know is that not ALL original 67 rear bumpers in early production had the sloped towel rails.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2021 11:38 pm    Post subject: Re: Bought my First 1967 Convertible. What is right and whats wrong? Reply with quote

Rome wrote:
Quote:
I want to design the car and finish it off how I want it.
That's fine. Any shiny alloy rims will look great against the bright red body color. I still think that the Fuchs alloys you are considering will be much too wide for your stock-width fenders. You can buy narrower, 15" diameter Fuchs replicas (e.g., 4.5", 5.5", 6.0" widths) that will fit better, especially if you buy brake drums that are already drilled for the 911 bolt pattern so that you won't need to fit adapters that create extra width.

Are you handy with vehicle wiring? Your trunk shot has lots of disconnected wires, but many look like they are factory colors. You can find an excellent factory wiring diagram here. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiring/bug67.jpg The wiring colors in the diagram should be the same as those in the car, unless POs modified some of the car wires with generically colored ones.


Hi Rome, thanks for all the good info on the rims. The issue is nearly everyone under the sun has those width Fuchs replicas now. I was to the point I wasn't going to them at all until I thought about going with deep dish and having a different look. I don't want the tires to stand out "proud" like you said. How bad will it look? Any chance you know of any after market or pre 67 fenders I can put on that would make the car look good with deep dish rims but not too extreme? I also plan to lower the car not the point its scraping the ground but it is way too high for the look I'm going for. Here is an example with deep dish rims. I'm not interested in chrome like these because their way to blingy for my taste and distract from the car.


I looked everywhere for rims but there doesn't seem that isn't (common. I even tracked down the wheel maker of these in Germany but at over $6,000 pre shipped there is limits to what I'm willing to spend. They are the most beautiful rims I have ever seen.

As for the electrical luckily I mentioned in an early post I found a retired certified VW mechanic who is good with the wiring that is taking car on Monday to rebuild the carb, change the oil, replace the fuel lines and work on the wiring for the lights turn signals. The mechanic is very reasonable. At least all of that will be fixed
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 31, 2021 1:39 am    Post subject: Re: Bought my First 1967 Convertible. What is right and whats wrong? Reply with quote

The bumpers for Achtungs beetle are NOT RIGHT. VW like anybody else may have placed a standard beetle towel bar bumper on these originally but again like anybody else found out the clearance was an issue and changed. Many more of the 8000 or so convertibles have the sloped rear towel bars, indicating a "later" if anything change. I wouldnt rely on "pictures" in "refinements" unless they are specifically mentioned as a 'change" starting with vin number and ending with a specific vin number. As we age out of this hobby, I am amazed at the numbers of "changes" I never saw, and I LOOKED. Achtungs beetle appear to be earlier reproductions with the black gaskets on the ends.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 31, 2021 7:00 am    Post subject: Re: Bought my First 1967 Convertible. What is right and whats wrong? Reply with quote

Achtung, both of the Beetles in your photos with the very wide rear wheels are older than 1967. The '67 received a wider rear track, 53.5" compared to the 51.2" of those thru '66. So already you have an additional inch of outward placement of the wheel on each side on your '67 with the stock axles. Conversely, the same wide wheel you'd be considering for your '67 would have an inch more room inside the fender of a '66 and earlier due to its narrower rear axle.

The wheels on the blue Beetle are based on the Porsche 914 factory alloy wheel style. Those are 4-bolt mountings. Once again, to consider them ($$$) or similar ones for your Beetle, you'd need either wide 5- to narrow 4 adapters (adding width), or buy new drums that are drilled for the 4 bolt holes.

In the rear photo of the blue Beetle you can see that the slot for the bumper bracket is the "long" style such as for a '68 and later Beetle. In the center shot, it appears as though the fender lip is very thin, not the usual rolled edge of a steel fender. These clues indicate that the fenders could be fiberglass, so that the lack of the rolled edge provides a small bit more clearance for the wide rims and tires. If those are FG rear fenders, they appear to be stock width. Wider fenders would have more of the fender extending outwards from the outer edge of the running board.

The 8" wide Fuchs-style wheel you showed will be tough to get into the '67 wheelwell "in theory". Unless you know somebody who has this exact wheel or a cheaper one with the same width and backspacing/offset dimensions that you can borrow and do a test-fit onto your car, you'll be out a lot of money to buy a new rim and find that it's difficult to fit. You'd have to make sure with the wheel seller that you could return it if you can't get it to fit, provided that you don't put any scratches onto the wheel during your fitment trial.

There are a few vendors of wider, stock-style rear fenders but those are usually made out of fiberglass. You'll need to match the paint to them, drill your taillamp and bumper bracket holes accurately, and also drill all of the holes along the edge to mount the fenders to the body. Taillamps should not be measured to the original factory location, because with the extra width of the fenders, the factory taillamp location would end up being too far inward of center. You'd need to place the taillamps about an inch or so outward for a balanced look. Here's one vendor- http://www.creativecarcraft.com/stock.htm
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 31, 2021 8:58 am    Post subject: Re: Bought my First 1967 Convertible. What is right and whats wrong? Reply with quote

I don't see a flasher relay in your trunk pic. From '67~'69 VW used a 7-prong flasher relay and a simple 2-prong E-Flasher switch. '67 was the 1st year for factory installed 4-way flashers. In previous years it was a dealer add-on, I believe. VW discontinued the complicated flasher relay somewhere in the '69(?) model year and superseded it with a 4-prong flasher relay and a 7-prong E-Flasher switch. The '67 E-Flasher switch and knob are a one-year-only item. Functionally they work the same as '66~'69, but the diameter of the shaft and the style of the knob were different between the years.

If you are after OG look, you will need to find these hard to find parts. I have seen them popup in the classified some times.

If you are not after originality, I would suggest going w/ the '70-later style E-Flasher switch and flasher relay. They are both easily found in the after market as reproductions and compatible flasher relays can be sourced from your FLAPS if needed. This makes maintenance easier.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 31, 2021 9:18 am    Post subject: Re: Bought my First 1967 Convertible. What is right and whats wrong? Reply with quote

I think most here are hoping that you keep the car more stock, but it is your car and you can do what you want. It will be a more valuable car done right.

We have seen so many people come in with these projects and the first thing they want to do is lower, chop, and replace everything. The German engineers and designers knew what they were doing and I marvel at some of the simple things they did. They weren't always spot on and some ideas came and went quickly.

I would do the brakes, find the correct taillights, find the correct seats/interior, do the top, get it running sweet. It will take time and money along with constant perusing of Samba ads to find the right stuff.

I've been in the Porsche/VW car hobby for 50 years and I have my opinions. I would get the basics done before you Fuch it up.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 31, 2021 11:44 am    Post subject: Re: Bought my First 1967 Convertible. What is right and whats wrong? Reply with quote

Larmo63 wrote:
I think most here are hoping that you keep the car more stock, but it is your car and you can do what you want. It will be a more valuable car done right.

We have seen so many people come in with these projects and the first thing they want to do is lower, chop, and replace everything. The German engineers and designers knew what they were doing and I marvel at some of the simple things they did. They weren't always spot on and some ideas came and went quickly.

I would do the brakes, find the correct taillights, find the correct seats/interior, do the top, get it running sweet. It will take time and money along with constant perusing of Samba ads to find the right stuff.

I've been in the Porsche/VW car hobby for 50 years and I have my opinions. I would get the basics done before you Fuch it up.


Hear, HEAR! I agree 100% with you on all your points and perspective, Larmo63. However, ultimately, it's the O.P.'s car to do whatever he pleases with his vision. I too personally prefer a purist stock path for a rare 67 vert restoration, but I can also respect and understand that the shiny-object appeal of a modern day full blown restomod "kustom" is hard to resist for some folks these days. No offense meant to anyone... Smile
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1967 VW Convertible, owned /driven /pampered for 34 years.
1957 DKW 3=6, owned /driven /risen from the dead for 20 years.

Previously owned: 72 "Baja Champion SE" Spec. Edition Super Beetle bought NEW; 79 Convertible bought NEW; 67 type 1 savanna beige; 67 2.0 911S; 73 2.4 911T; 63 356 T6 B Cabriolet; 64 356 SC sunroof coupe; 72 Type-3 Squareback; 68 + 69 Type-3 Fastbacks; 87 Vanagon GL Wasserboxer
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Rome
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 31, 2021 3:39 pm    Post subject: Re: Bought my First 1967 Convertible. What is right and whats wrong? Reply with quote

67conv wrote:
Big Bill wrote:
Busstom, you may be correct about the early 67s not getting non-sloping towel bars. My early (Mid-Sept. of 66) 67 didn't have the sloping bars and I believe them to have been OG to the car. It did have the 67 front towel bar that pocks out in the center. Seems like a person can learn something new almost every day here on the Samba.


This is all part of the "fun" of the '67's. Yes, most definitely there were early non-sloping '67 towel rail over riders (same as '66 and prior years), and then a "sloped" modification was made sometime after the 1967 production year got underway. I think this was in late September or October of 1966, if my memory is correct. I have an August 1966 production convertible which has the original old, non sloping style over riders.
I looked up this detail in my "Car of the Century" book (volume 2, 1961 thru 1979, from J.T. Garwood). On page 690, this change is referenced as of VIN 117171365. theSamba's VIN archive list has an entry for Sept. 2 1966 for VIN 117114... and for the last VIN in Sept. being 117202... a difference of nearly 90,000 cars. So the bumper change is approx. 65% thru the month, which would be in the 3rd production week of Sept.

Achtung, that rear bumper for $300 seems a high price IMO, though I have not needed one in decades so that might be a realistic price. It would need to be in top condition with no rust, no flaking paint on the inside, no dents, etc. Maybe offer him $200 in cash and buy it, since the prices would likely only go up to find good ones. Realize that a big part of your money for the car will be going to the entire top. You'll likely prepare the brakes, engine, etc. (wheels!) and even a rudimentary interior to get it registered and start to drive it before you actively start on top work.

Also down the road with the top: with you having a late style fastening method that does not need a wood rear bow, I "think" the only wood on the entire top is the front bow. Do a lot of research here on tS on that. I've witnessed a top bow being partially fitted at Classic VW Bugs here in NY on Chris' orange '70 Beetle a few years ago. The wooden bow needed quite a bit of reshaping to get the contours right, and that might be a necessary evil for any aftermarket bow. Stick with wood, avoid plastic. Chris probably has a video on the top installation on his site. The same Car of the Century mentions that '67 tops had vinyl material covers, not canvas.
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61SNRF
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 31, 2021 7:03 pm    Post subject: Re: Bought my First 1967 Convertible. What is right and whats wrong? Reply with quote

67conv wrote:
...Front fenders...definitely aftermarket.


Sorry to say this is wrong but many people are under the same mis-conception.
It is true they not original 67 items but they are indeed genuine VW replacements.
When VW ran out of original 67 front fender pressings they sold you front fenders made for the 68-72 Standards sold in European markets.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=498208

To the OP, the good thing is they're genuine German and you have a matching pair.
The bad thing is you'll constantly have mis-informed people telling you they're aftermarket.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 31, 2021 10:58 pm    Post subject: Re: Bought my First 1967 Convertible. What is right and whats wrong? Reply with quote

61SNRF wrote:
67conv wrote:
...Front fenders...definitely aftermarket.


Sorry to say this is wrong but many people are under the same mis-conception.
It is true they not original 67 items but they are indeed genuine VW replacements.
When VW ran out of original 67 front fender pressings they sold you front fenders made for the 68-72 Standards sold in European markets.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=498208

To the OP, the good thing is they're genuine German and you have a matching pair.
The bad thing is you'll constantly have mis-informed people telling you they're aftermarket.




Thank you for the information 61SNRF. Everyone is an expert and it is getting difficult to tell up from down. Could all fenders be original including the back?

I would like to collect all the original parts slowly and put them away safely but I don't have plans to keep the car stock for my use. Value? The value is in the happiness the car brings me not money because I have no plans on ever selling this 1967 Convertible beetle What does the most amount of money the car will bring me matter...

Do you have any opinions on the deep dish Fuchs I would like to buy? I would really like to go with wide deep dish rims and I also have plans to lower the car down but not to the point its scraping the ground.

Where I'm from I haven't seen a convertible beetle on the road in over a decade. I don't have anyone to compete with. I put a nice paint job, wheels, a top and a paint I have the best car in all my my city.


By the way everyone luckily I have all the turn signal, and high bream 67 relays in the box of parts. I have a mechanic taking the car tomorrow to rebuild fuel lines, carb and some electrical work.


Thanks everyone for the help so far. This was my dream car/ I know its going to take money to see it come happen. I just don't ripped off.
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Achtung360
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 01, 2021 1:24 am    Post subject: Re: Bought my First 1967 Convertible. What is right and whats wrong? Reply with quote

Rome wrote:
Achtung, both of the Beetles in your photos with the very wide rear wheels are older than 1967. The '67 received a wider rear track, 53.5" compared to the 51.2" of those thru '66. So already you have an additional inch of outward placement of the wheel on each side on your '67 with the stock axles. Conversely, the same wide wheel you'd be considering for your '67 would have an inch more room inside the fender of a '66 and earlier due to its narrower rear axle.

The wheels on the blue Beetle are based on the Porsche 914 factory alloy wheel style. Those are 4-bolt mountings. Once again, to consider them ($$$) or similar ones for your Beetle, you'd need either wide 5- to narrow 4 adapters (adding width), or buy new drums that are drilled for the 4 bolt holes.

In the rear photo of the blue Beetle you can see that the slot for the bumper bracket is the "long" style such as for a '68 and later Beetle. In the center shot, it appears as though the fender lip is very thin, not the usual rolled edge of a steel fender. These clues indicate that the fenders could be fiberglass, so that the lack of the rolled edge provides a small bit more clearance for the wide rims and tires. If those are FG rear fenders, they appear to be stock width. Wider fenders would have more of the fender extending outwards from the outer edge of the running board.

The 8" wide Fuchs-style wheel you showed will be tough to get into the '67 wheelwell "in theory". Unless you know somebody who has this exact wheel or a cheaper one with the same width and backspacing/offset dimensions that you can borrow and do a test-fit onto your car, you'll be out a lot of money to buy a new rim and find that it's difficult to fit. You'd have to make sure with the wheel seller that you could return it if you can't get it to fit, provided that you don't put any scratches onto the wheel during your fitment trial.

There are a few vendors of wider, stock-style rear fenders but those are usually made out of fiberglass. You'll need to match the paint to them, drill your taillamp and bumper bracket holes accurately, and also drill all of the holes along the edge to mount the fenders to the body. Taillamps should not be measured to the original factory location, because with the extra width of the fenders, the factory taillamp location would end up being too far inward of center. You'd need to place the taillamps about an inch or so outward for a balanced look. Here's one vendor- http://www.creativecarcraft.com/stock.htm




"Unless you know somebody who has this exact wheel or a cheaper one with the same width and backspacing/offset dimensions that you can borrow and do a test-fit onto your car, you'll be out a lot of money to buy a new rim and find that it's difficult to fit. You'd have to make sure with the wheel seller that you could return it if you can't get it to fit, provided that you don't put any scratches onto the wheel during your fitment trial."

This really sucks, thanks for the warning Rome. I need to order new tires mine look like they were never used but sat for at least 5+ years and 1 is leaking air. I don't want to take the chance of them being "road worthy." So the 8 inch is a no go on the rear everyone? I really like that deep dish look for the rear... The last person chimed in the fenders are original on the front but made for post 67 models does that give me any extra depth?

Thanks
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 01, 2021 6:47 am    Post subject: Re: Bought my First 1967 Convertible. What is right and whats wrong? Reply with quote

61SNRF wrote:
67conv wrote:
...Front fenders...definitely aftermarket.


Sorry to say this is wrong but many people are under the same mis-conception.
It is true they not original 67 items but they are indeed genuine VW replacements.
When VW ran out of original 67 front fender pressings they sold you front fenders made for the 68-72 Standards sold in European markets.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=498208

To the OP, the good thing is they're genuine German and you have a matching pair.
The bad thing is you'll constantly have mis-informed people telling you they're aftermarket.


While there were OEM fenders with the wide horn grill spacing, they were offered as genuine replacements into the late 60’s, early 70’s. Unless the op’s vehicle was repainted in the 70’s, it’s very doubtful they are VW. With the aftermarket bumpers, white fender beading, and lack of chrome in the windshield rubber, this “refresh” was done on the cheap like 99.997% of work done on every other Beetle from the 80’s onward. Any OEM VW fender I have worked with has had a VW logo stamped in it. If there is no logo on the fender, or any receipt from the dealer with the car, it’s aftermarket. Kinda like saying every engine in a Beetle is the original one, but unless you have a confirmed birth certificate, there’s no way of knowing.

To the op, do what you want with the car. 100% of those “experts” critiquing your vehicle at the local show right out of the gate are jealous haters. Those that have 67 convertibles more original to yours with inferiority complexes already feel superior because they have “a nicer car” in their minds. Then there are the true modest enthusiasts, that may, or may not even have a VW, that don’t say anything negative at all.

This thread is a perfect example of the “he said, she said”, “this is correct, this is not” type of individuals you are going to meet at a VW event.
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