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Column Rebuild
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 12:28 pm    Post subject: Re: Column Rebuild Reply with quote

Clatter wrote:
Bobnotch wrote:
Use a VOM to double check before installing it into the car. I like to double check electrical stuff whenever I have to do anything to it.


Didn't mention this in my tutorial,
but, yes, a -very- good idea to test things before assembly.

I put the meter, set to ohms, across the two wires of the dimmer switch,
Then watched the numbers jump as the button was pushed.

Same with the lock cylinder.

Put the meter on the new soldered wires,
And make sure it shows continuity across the correct wires, or not, as the key is turned.

Way better to find any flaws before things are assembled. Cool


Exactly. It's better to know now, rather than find out later that a wire that looks like it soldered well, isn't.
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Clatter
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 24, 2020 3:35 pm    Post subject: Re: Column Rebuild Reply with quote

So,
To wrap this up..

I ran the three big fat ignition wires down their side of the column,
And all the rest down the other side.

Started walking the assemblies into place;
Left some extra slack in the wires,
But not enough to have anything loop over or around.
Put SuperLube on all of the moving parts, spring, etc.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


One thing I accidentally did was put paint on the ring where the spacers and ring ride.
Had to sand the paint off..
That black ring on the towel is from sanding. Embarassed
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Make sure to lube up these little catches for the canceling mech.
They also need nudged out of the way for the assembly to come home.

All's well that ends well, though.. Wink

Once the wires are all in place,
I carefully un-soldered them one-at-a-time,
So I would be sure the replacement went in the right spot.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Also saw where you can use some fine steel wool to wick/wipe away old solder..

Tested afterwards with meter, and all works well.

Found my mounts and such, and started putting together.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Got the (aftermarket) wheel hub and whatnot in place,
Set it aside until the rest of the car is done.. Smile
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2020 9:27 am    Post subject: Re: Column Rebuild Reply with quote

Looks good Steve. Cool
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
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Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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Max Welton
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2020 8:13 am    Post subject: Re: Column Rebuild Reply with quote

For anyone who doesn't want to dive into their og switch, ISP sells this perfectly nice replacement. Pricey but not 53+ years old.

https://www.vwispwest.com/311905851A/Type-3-Ignition-Switch-61-67.html

Max
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ibldrc
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2020 6:50 pm    Post subject: Re: Column Rebuild Reply with quote

Max Welton wrote:
For anyone who doesn't want to dive into their og switch, ISP sells this perfectly nice replacement. Pricey but not 53+ years old.

https://www.vwispwest.com/311905851A/Type-3-Ignition-Switch-61-67.html

Max


I recently bought one. Nice replacement part. BUT....
It didn't come with its own mounting screw, and the threads are different .... as in maybe not metric. The OEM mount screw does not thread into the USA made housing. Not a big deal, but its something you need to know.
And, the lock assembly is brazilian. It works, but it's a sloppy fit in the housing, and the finish is very low quality (thats not ISP's fault), especially compared to the nice chrome the Germans gave us originally.
It's a nice switch Assy for those that need one and can't fix the old, or pony for an NOS one though.
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Max Welton
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2021 10:37 am    Post subject: Re: Column Rebuild Reply with quote

ibldrc wrote:
I recently bought one. Nice replacement part. BUT....
It didn't come with its own mounting screw, and the threads are different .... as in maybe not metric. The OEM mount screw does not thread into the USA made housing. Not a big deal, but its something you need to know.

Turns out the required thread for the ISP switch is the same as this little one on the housing, m3 IIRC. But the screw that goes there is too short. I got a longer one at ACE hardware.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Max
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sjbartnik
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2021 2:52 pm    Post subject: Re: Column Rebuild Reply with quote

Bumping this thread up...thanks to Clatter for putting it together. Was reading through it as I'm chasing a starting gremlin which I hope was only a corroded terminal at 50 on the solenoid but time will tell and I'm looking ahead in case I have to get into the ignition switch.

Has anyone ever though of eliminating the solder connections on the terminal block at the base of the column and instead use regular crimp terminals and one of those VW multi-connector blocks?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Just for ease of future servicing.

Any reason that's a stupid idea? Very Happy
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OKType3Tim Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2021 5:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Column Rebuild Reply with quote

Not exactly what sjbartnik was asking:
But related to this, and chasing a low voltage condition at the starter solenoid, I used a 4-way connector, and some rerouting of the main Power (Red) wire to eliminate this 'add-on' terminal clip. Which did have corrosion and associated voltage drop issues.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The power wire from the battery compartment (regulator) comes to 4-way connector. From the 4-way connector:
    * A Red connecting wire to the headlight switch.

    * A Red connecting wire to the fuse block connector (#8 from left as shown in picture. And the Red wire from the Column is connected to this fuse block connector.

    * A Red wire that feeds the front of the car relays, the radio, and the cigar lighter. (each of those three items having inline fuses.)


But one more step was required. I installed a relay to eliminate the current draw, and voltage drop that comes from running that solenoid current through the column key switch.
This relay is installed on the engine bay firewall. (Note the passenger side carb at the edge of the picture for positioning.)
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Note the fuse holder that has a 20-amp mini fuse in it.

Sources for the Relay:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G9TBBPW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and
https://www.newark.com/potter-brumfield-te-connect...st=21m4888

I used the one from Newark as I liked the metal mounting tab better.

My car is 6 Volt, so a 6 Volt relay is required. Because, 6 volts will not pull in an equivalent relay that is rated for 12 volts.
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notchboy
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2021 9:57 pm    Post subject: Re: Column Rebuild Reply with quote

Sexy to see it come along. Huge Rabbit hole you wandering down, but sexy to see it come together. Cool Laughing

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OK, this thread is over. You win.

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sjbartnik
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 06, 2021 2:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Column Rebuild Reply with quote

Good news, I have determined through testing that my ignition switch is just fine, so I don't need to pull the column.

But this is still a great thread Very Happy
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swhitcomb
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2023 5:35 pm    Post subject: Re: Column Rebuild Reply with quote

Bobnotch wrote:
And another reason why I went with the 68 and later style ignition and column head assembly. At least on those the electrical portion of the ignition switch is self contained. Very Happy


I’m about to do this same swap. Bought a 68-69 column. Do you have any pics of it installed?
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2023 2:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Column Rebuild Reply with quote

swhitcomb wrote:
Bobnotch wrote:
And another reason why I went with the 68 and later style ignition and column head assembly. At least on those the electrical portion of the ignition switch is self contained. Very Happy


I’m about to do this same swap. Bought a 68-69 column. Do you have any pics of it installed?


Sorry no pics. My swap was done around the end of 1999-begining of 2000. I know I used the 65 shaft and column tube with the 71 column head (yes, I screwed up and used a 1 year only part to replace a troublesome older part). In my case I also had to use the 71 style headlight switch because of the "X" terminal that shuts off the headlights when the key is off. Given a choice, I'd rather of used the 68-70 version, as parts would be easier to find. Like I said, I used the 65 steering shaft and lower column tube, because this got it thru the front wall. The later tube is too short. I did have to split the rubber bit (at the dash) as the later column head bolt pattern is wider, but other than that it was a direct bolt in swap. It's been in the car since 2000, and I don't plan on changing it.
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
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Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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swhitcomb
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2023 6:26 pm    Post subject: Re: Column Rebuild Reply with quote

Well, I bought all the parts to swap out to a 68 column, and just wasn’t happy with it. So, ISP west finally got the switch back in stock and I spent the money on one.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Powder coated the housing today. Don’t think I’ll be able to do the turn signal switch in powder coat however.

So now I have to remember what gets soldered to the plastic terminal.
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swhitcomb
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2023 11:57 am    Post subject: Re: Column Rebuild Reply with quote

Hopefully this will help someone in the future. I called ISP west. He said the screw is supposed to be in the bag with the switch. Mine wasn’t so I had him check the size. 6/32x1/2”
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2023 7:19 pm    Post subject: Re: Column Rebuild Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Got it done and most of the way back together. Going to paint the dash so it’s not all back in. It’s coming back out so I can paint it. Just wanted to make sure it all worked.
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