Sticking Throttle

[67rustavenger]

Do what you want.
But I have never liked those stamped cross bar linkage supports. They tend to bend outward easily when adjusting the cross bar tension.
Also the nylon bushings wear prematurely.

Another observation, your cross bar looks a little on the short side. This causes the carb drop rods to be at an angle. Vs straight down vertically.
If one drop rod is straight down and the other is angled. One carb will lead the other at throttle opening.

A good linkage kit from CB would help.
https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/3143.htm

A good throttle cable to use. HD and will never break, well almost never!
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Bulletproof-Throttle-Cable-9-Long-p/bulletproof-throttle-cable-9.htm
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Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
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GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[DC0046]

Great!

[74 Thing]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Empi-44-1127-Hex-Bar-Link...2735961052

Empi makes a bearing conversion for the ball and socket cross bar area.

Yours may be a plastic/nylon type of material.

[oprn]

The spring angle you presently have is doing virtually nothing to close the throttle at idle.

And by the way, I am not sure that you know those air cleaners do not filter much out. Consider better ones or outers to keep from plugging your idle jets and dusting your piston rings.
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[Dale M.]

I make this little tab to attach spring at heim joint bolt on linkage...

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All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

[DC0046]

Thanks you everyone for your suggestions. Been working on it all afternoon again. I will update you when I get this worked out.

[DC0046]

Haven’t made any of the modifications recommended yet, but intend to. I have it about 95 percent better then it was tho. Everything I have read online indicated the nuts on the throttle levers of both carbs needed to be fairly loose. When fooling with the passenger side carb yesterday I noticed the lever on the clock spring would return to about a 32nd of an inch and hang up. It also had quite a bit of slop in it in and out from the actual carb. So I tightened the hell out of it and that seemed to help quite a bit. Tried that same approach on the drivers side carb and it made it worse. So the nut on the non clock spring carb is fairly loose and the nut on the clock spring carb is fairly tight. Throttle runs free until CHT creep to about 255 and then sticks about 1500 rpms. However its fairly simple now to blip the throttle and returns to idle of about 1100 rpms. Thanks again for all the help with this. I will keep working through it, just wanted to provide an update.

[sled]

be aware that there is a clock spring on the front side of the 3/4 carb. You may need to check the nuts on the front sides of the carbs as well.

always make adjustments on an engine when it is up to full operating temperature.
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drive your split.

[DC0046]