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DocNexil
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2021 9:05 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
I don't recognize that as being a vacuum only distributor, maybe its time for some numbers off of it.

Alright, so here's what I got:
<--- JFU 4
0 231 170 034 (VW) 043 905 205
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2021 9:55 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

DocNexil wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
I don't recognize that as being a vacuum only distributor, maybe its time for some numbers off of it.

Alright, so here's what I got:
<--- JFU 4
0 231 170 034 (VW) 043 905 205


It should be a SVDA distributor and thus would have a centrifugal advance. I would remove the distributor, put some light oil like 3-in-1 oil on the felt under the rotor, and then spray below the breaker plates with PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or some other penetrating oil and see if that will free the centrifugal advance up. You should be able to hold the drive cog on the bottom of the shaft and turn the rotor clockwise 10° or so and have it spring back on its own. Since you don't want to get oil or grease onto the points, you should either remove them or cover them up well before spraying below the plates.

In the future at the interval given in the manual be putting motor oil on the felt, but for now use the light oil as suggested.

Before you put the distributor back in check the points gap (using new points or filing the old ones flat first) and make sure the distributor cam is properly lubed.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2021 9:59 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Distributor: VW 043-905-205, Bosch 0231 170 034
Can Use: VW 113-905-205AL, Bosch 0231 146 101, VW 043 905 205 ZB (Mexico) (See Note Below)
Points: 01 011
Condensor: 02 074
Rotor: 04 033
Dust Cover: 039-905-241, Bosch 1230 500 139 > 1230 500 147
Cap: 03 010
Distributor Cap Clip: 034-905-265, Bosch 1231 251 033
Parts Kit (Shims, Washers & Hardware): 059-998-211, Bosch 1237 010 007
Coil: 00 015 (Blue Coil: 00 012)
Vacuum Can: 07 059
Ignition Wires: 09 001
Spark Plug: W8AC
Timing Set At:: 7.5deg BTDC @ 800-950rpm w/strobe and w/single vacuum hose disconnected and plugged
Advance/Retard Range: Vacuum: 8-12deg Adv; Centrifugal: 7-12deg @ 1600rpm, 20-25deg @ 3800rpm
NOTE: Volkswagen (with Bosch's help) now makes this distributor in Mexico and is available brand new and ready to install. Please click this link:Beetle (Puebla, Mexico) With Points Distributor to view the specs.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2021 11:58 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Vintageair.com? Or Vintage Air DIY kits?

I’ve been looking through the search functions for a little bit and can’t find any leads. Has anyone tried installing one of their DIY or Builder sets? It seems like the dimensions of their units would fit below the dash in the Bays.
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DocNexil
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2021 11:52 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
It should be a SVDA distributor and thus would have a centrifugal advance. I would remove the distributor, put some light oil like 3-in-1 oil on the felt under the rotor, and then spray below the breaker plates with PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or some other penetrating oil and see if that will free the centrifugal advance up. You should be able to hold the drive cog on the bottom of the shaft and turn the rotor clockwise 10° or so and have it spring back on its own. Since you don't want to get oil or grease onto the points, you should either remove them or cover them up well before spraying below the plates.

In the future at the interval given in the manual be putting motor oil on the felt, but for now use the light oil as suggested.

Before you put the distributor back in check the points gap (using new points or filing the old ones flat first) and make sure the distributor cam is properly lubed.

Wildthings wrote:
Timing Set At:: 7.5deg BTDC @ 800-950rpm w/strobe and w/single vacuum hose disconnected and plugged
Advance/Retard Range: Vacuum: 8-12deg Adv; Centrifugal: 7-12deg @ 1600rpm, 20-25deg @ 3800rpm

Thank for the information! I did some more checking today and at idle it sits at a good 7.5deg BTDC and will advance up to 28deg, but then it will only drop back down to about 20deg. If I fiddle with the idle speed screw it will go back to 7.5deg. I'm gathering that this means it's sticking and needs lubrication? Also I can advance the few degrees of vacuum by sucking on the vac line but my carb doesn't. So I think my carb isn't making enough vacuum to make use of the vac advance and maybe cleaning it will fix that issue? I checked the rotor and it does move the 10deg, but compared to my spare dizzy it's a weaker return. My spare has a broken vac can, which is why I'm not using it at the moment. It also doesn't have any serial numbers on the side so all I know is that it's a SVDA.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2021 12:52 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

If you haven't lubed the centrifugal advance as I suggested, do so.

Quote:
Also I can advance the few degrees of vacuum by sucking on the vac line but my carb doesn't.


The carb supplies what is called ported vacuum, so will have no vacuum at the nipple when the throttle is fully closed but will have vacuum once the throttle is opened just a little bit or more. you should be able to feel this by putting your finger of the end of the hose and opening the throttle.
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DocNexil
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2021 10:38 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
If you haven't lubed the centrifugal advance as I suggested, do so.

The carb supplies what is called ported vacuum, so will have no vacuum at the nipple when the throttle is fully closed but will have vacuum once the throttle is opened just a little bit or more. you should be able to feel this by putting your finger of the end of the hose and opening the throttle.

Got some time to get to it today, and lubed it up as suggested. Unfortunately there was no change in operation. I also tried checking for vacuum like you said and couldn't feel anything, so I'm thinking I need to clean the carb. I ended up putting my spare dizzy on to see if it performs better. Turns out, this dizzy advances like it should and returns like it should, and man does it make a difference when I test drove it (but still no vac advance). My current plan is to get my old dizzy rebuilt, since I hear all the time that the og stuff works better and lasts longer, and also get my spare (now my current) dizzy's vac advance fixed so either way I'll have a good daily part and a good spare. I should also mention that this current one looks very clean and new-ish, and looked well lubed.

Once again thank you for your help, I have learned more and that is valuable no matter the results.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 04, 2021 12:08 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Step by step is what it takes Smile
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pickelhauben
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 06, 2021 6:44 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

replaced my generator tower as it was cracked and leaking at the base.my question s are does the generator base get any gasket sealant ,do the intake ports get any sealant? pretty sure the heating tube's don't get any, and the carb should be just the gasket correct.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 06, 2021 7:12 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

just checked the gasket kit and there are three gaskets two paper and one metal do i sandwich the metal gasket with the two paper ones?and on the intake metal gasket is it ridge side up seems to me it would be.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 06, 2021 8:46 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

The gaskets are for early 40 hp with the tubular oil baffle, the finned aluminum baffle uses no gaskets, it is the gasket. A light smear of sealant on each side wouldn't hurt though.

Those gasket kits cover all models of engine, some parts don't apply to yours.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 06, 2021 9:43 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

thanks for the heads up,..on the intake metal gasket from the block to the intake manifold do you apply any sealant.and do you put the ridge side up?
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2021 4:52 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

New short block assembled. Crankshaft, camshaft, and all bottom end assembly rotate wonderfully. This is without a flywheel installed. Fasten down fuel pump, assembly gets hard to rotate at TDC points. As far as I know, this is running the correct fuel pump push rod with the correct fuel pump.

Thoughts?

Sam
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2021 5:01 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

SamboSamba22 wrote:
New short block assembled. Crankshaft, camshaft, and all bottom end assembly rotate wonderfully. This is without a flywheel installed. Fasten down fuel pump, assembly gets hard to rotate at TDC points. As far as I know, this is running the correct fuel pump push rod with the correct fuel pump.

Thoughts?

Sam

Every TDC?, or every second TDC?
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2021 5:03 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
SamboSamba22 wrote:
New short block assembled. Crankshaft, camshaft, and all bottom end assembly rotate wonderfully. This is without a flywheel installed. Fasten down fuel pump, assembly gets hard to rotate at TDC points. As far as I know, this is running the correct fuel pump push rod with the correct fuel pump.

Thoughts?

Sam

Every TDC?, or every second TDC?


Mostly every second TDC.
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2021 6:08 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

SamboSamba22 wrote:
Mostly every second TDC.


Increased resistance with the fuel pump installed every 2nd crank rev is normal. Within reason.
Because the fuel pump diaphragm spring gets compressed once every 2 revs.
Too much resistance would indicate a crummy aftermarket pump or incorrect assembly of the pump or both.
A pump/rod mismatch would result in a hard bind or no extra resistance at all.

Can't say what you have is "too much" or not.
It's a pretty stiff spring. It can be operated by hand, but more than a few strokes
will start to cause pain.
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2021 11:02 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Okay, here's one I'm puzzling over. I drove the bus (71 tintop) last Thursday. Everything behaves normally.

I hop in today to go to a cars and coffee locally and my high beams are stuck on...even when the bus is off. Granted, it must have started after I started the bus. Trying to trigger the relay from the turn signal switch isn't working.

Just looking for ideas. Haven't had time to dig into anything yet.
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2021 12:11 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

might anyone know what the more active or reliable air cooled groups in the North Georgia region are? I see that the Gwinett County group's website isnt working anymore.

I have some inheritance coming in and I want to put some towards getting my project going, but I'll need a proper garage space as mine is too tight.
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2021 1:34 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

NorCalWeekender wrote:
Okay, here's one I'm puzzling over. I drove the bus (71 tintop) last Thursday. Everything behaves normally.

I hop in today to go to a cars and coffee locally and my high beams are stuck on...even when the bus is off. Granted, it must have started after I started the bus. Trying to trigger the relay from the turn signal switch isn't working.

Just looking for ideas. Haven't had time to dig into anything yet.


Okay, so a friend thought it might be the relay. So I pulled it, tested it (it's fine), cleaned connectors while I was there, and reinstalled it.

Applied power and now I have no headlights at all (hi or low). Parking lights work fine. So my thoughts now go to the headlight switch.

Going to eventually pull and test it, but can only do so much right now while my right arm recovers from tendon surgery.
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2021 10:30 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Installing dual port intake manifold to case to return to Stock Carb (PO had installed dual carbs) and unclear of spacer sequence. One reference has nut, wavy washer, thick washer, intake, on the case bolt. But no mention of that large 3rd washer (far right). Does that large washer go on the other side of manifold so it’s not intake to case? Is it just an extra? Thoughts?


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