Tunnel strength

[kingjason2]

I have searched plenty for this and can't find a good answer. I have a 70 Ghia Vert chassis for my 1980s 356 project. Overall in good shape as it was covered all these years but the pans are shot of course. I am not in a hurry to weld in the new pans but I want to cut the old pans off. Can I roll it around and tinker with it with no pans for a while? I am not even 100 percent sure I am going to build this thing but I get bored somedays and I hate the rust! I have the bug pans to match the Fiberfab Californian I have but my motivation comes and gos.

On a side note, if I decide to part it out, would it be worth selling the chassis separate? I have a title in my name for it. Just curious, try not to roast me. I built many a bug back in the day before most of them had rusted floor pans. I have a M Roadster so my desire for another two seater is not huge.[/img]

[Era Vulgaris]

Does this answer your question about the tunnel?

_________________
Currently own:
66 Karmann Ghia, L390 Gulf Blue, under construction, here: www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=760505&highlight=
99 Mazda MX-5 10AE, Sapphire Blue Mica, 6 speed, LSD

Previously owned:
98 Porsche Boxster, silver, 2.5L -- 67 Karmann Ghia, Black, 1500sp -- 98 BMW Z3, Atlanta Blue Metallic, 2.8L I6 -- 75 Porsche 914, Laguna Blue, 2270cc -- 72 Porsche 914, Signal Orange, 1.7 FI -- 74 Karmann Ghia, Black, 1600dp -- 74 Triumph TR6 with O.D., sapphire blue

[kingjason2]

Well, as a matter of fact it just might have!

[kingjason2]

Flipped that dude on its side and cut the pans off. I was a little confused by the videos then realized that most bug replacement pans have the hats at the back and I guess Ghias don't. So, cut the hats off the bug pans and weld to current set up, or finish trimming the Ghia tunnel at the back and weld the complete bug pans in? My napoleons hat looks to be in good shape and I think I read the factory stuff is stronger. Then I have to come back and shorten this thing 11.81 inches!