1700-1800 engine build

[dogmeat]

I'm gearing up for a build. the case is a 1500 single port. it is supposed to be a running engine with low miles (but old). all subject to change, but my plan is to buy new Dual Port heads, 88mm slipons, 5.325 rods, and a 74mm crank from Aircooled. the cam is a consideration too. the main thing that I'm hung on now is the carb(s). I have all the stuff to go single barrel on DP. all I need is the unobtainium Webber progressive, not made in chinee. if I could find a used one I would rebuild it but I'm thinking maybe the EMPI 38E Carb might be the one. what do you guys think?

[Alstrup]

Well, IMHO, don´t go with the Egas carb. its a POS set up on a ACVW engine. If you want something like that stay with the progressive, - OR a modified 34 Solex and intake.
Stay on the mild side cam wise. Centermount carbs "like" short duration high lift.
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[oprn]

Most important in a Bus in my view is to tap the case for full flow filter and an auxiliary oil cooler. At the very least a newer doghouse should be added and monitor those oil temperatures closely.

I would also reconsider the 88mm slip-ins as they are thin wall. You want a thick wall cylinder in a heavy Bus. Also as Alstrup says, keep the cam well on the mild side to preserve your low end torque. You will soon tire of a temperamental high revving low torque engine in that big heavy echo chamber you bought!
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[Cusser]

I say wait until genuine Redline Weber K1410 is available, don 't go for knock-off.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[dogmeat]

hmmmm... confused about the 88mm slip ins from Aircooled. they are thin on the bottom but supposed to be 5mm thick up top for strength. is there problems with these cylinders?

modified Solex.... so what, a bigger venturi & jets? got any numbers? would a Solex 32-34 PDSIT- 3 be a good start?

yes, the oil filter is on the list of things to do

[Erik G]

[Alstrup]

[RWK]

You should deck the case anyway, so thick walls should be considered, old case's most likely sunk or corroded on deck seal anyway, besides head seal surface not much more important.

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73 Type 181
63 Type 113
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[rosevillain]

The 88mm non-machine in cylinders are only advertised available from Mahle. It seems that AA is only selling the non-machine bottoms. Huge price difference for most folks.

[oprn]

[dogmeat]

hmmmm.... food for thought. I can see the decking as a good thing but too much will affect the pushrod length and rocker geometry. how much leeway is there. I've done some looking and see lots of options.... I'm still getting the feel.

I haven't got the engine stripped down yet to assess the condition of the parts I intended to re-use. the project may take a different direction once I get it apart (prolly a week or so)(busy time of the year)

so as you may have guessed I am new to VW, but I'm not a noob mechanic. 45 years as an aircraft mechanic & inspector. I have also scratch built aircraft, motorcycles, hovercraft and other odd stuff. I have a mill & a lathe and some experience as a machinist.

there is no gas heater in the bus. it will be a summer camper. I'm in Alaska

[Alstrup]

Well, it is a bit premature to talk about this if you don´t even know if the case etc is reusable. But the older Sgl relief cases should really have the oil galley enlarged when you increase displacement and performance. But first youi need to find out whether it is worth to reuse. Check for warping, lifter bore wear, main bearing saddles of course and straightness of the cam saddles. Also check that the head studs have good material around the and the threading is good, or you need to use oversize studs or bush/Vcoil the threading.
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[oprn]

I suspect then that someone drug that Bus up there from the south. VW put gas heaters in their whole line up of cars slated for cold climates from about '68. They were optional for us before then. You would still find one very useful for the cold mornings in the summer. You could run them on the 15 minute timer VW supplied without starting the engine. It would extend your camping season considerably by taking the chill off for crawling out of your sleeping bags in the morning.

Yes in Alaska you will want to preserve or duplicate all the cold weather features that Bus came out with even for your summer use. Thermostat, heat riser including an exhaust that gives good flow for it, air cleaner pre-heat system and defrost/heating system to keep the fog and dew off the windshield in the morning and on rainy days.

Your summers will be colder then 1/2 the guys on this site experiance in their winters especially if you go camping at higher altitudes. They have no idea...
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We had the stone age, the bronze age, the industrial age and now we are in the age of mass deception and mind control for corporate profit. (The mass media age)

[modok]

The aircooled.net stuff is for people who want a quick fix, and that's a large %

But YOU claim to know what your doing, if so
then I doubt you will LIKE
Thin slip in cylinders, crappy chinese conrods, nor ford pinto carburetors.

The progressive carbs I don't like them but they are OK AS LONG AS...
you can say they are worth every $ as long as they are cheap and so is your time, but if they cost over 300$ then.... that's some monkey see monkey do fools game.
Economics has it's limits.
So my grab box of pinto carbs is now worth THOUSANDS of dollars? Yeah right.
They can stay on the shelf for when they are truly needed. You do not need any of that for your vw.

[MuzzcoVW]

I was under the impression that he was talking about the Thick Wall 88mm with Slip in bottoms. I've used these before and they're great...except i wasn't happy with the rings, I just couldn't get them to break in. To the O.P. I'm starting an 1800 build myself using the AA slip in bottom 88s, 5.325 rods and going to used Deves rings and an Engle W90 cam. An IMPORTANT note with this setup...you will need to clearance the piston skirts. It isn't hard to do and there are some vids on it. As far as carb, well mine is F.I so I can't help you there

[MuzzcoVW]

Also be careful if buying new heads. I have a pair of the AA 500s. When I bought them a few years ago they were marketed as 56cc chambers. They are 59cc. This messed up my compression big time because I was lazy and didn't measure for myself...

[[email protected]]

[Glenn]

So basically you have a 1500 engine and the only thing you'll be reusing is the case.

I'm not a fan of the 1500 case, the 1600 dual relief case is a better foundation to build a larger displacement semi-performance engine.

If you're going to do it, might as well spend a bit more and have something that will last.

90.5 cylinders with a 74 stroke and dual IDFs will run stronger, run cooler and last longer.
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Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

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[Lingwendil]

If the case needs any machine work done at all I would strongly consider boring it out to accept 90.5 cylinders, have it done at the same time they do the rest of the work. Especially if you have to buy the parts anyways.

90.5x74 is a great size of engine. May plan it for my next one if my old case that's already cut is reusable.
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[early]

Following this thread,

because I too am interested in building the same engine. a 74 x 88
to power my split window 67 Westy. it is a bit slow with a 1600 dual port right now.

i would be starting with a later 1600 dual relief case and would want to run
heater boxes , stock muffler and intake with dual port heads with a 34 pict 3.

not to hijack , just following along to see what the op decides to do. and have been reading the 1800 build mentioned in aircolled.net website.

cheers..
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