Things told not to do t, yet car has been running for years

[nextgen]

Like placement of electric pump or fuel filter, breather hose etc.
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[oprn]

I bought a '92 Chevy 1/2 ton with 175K km on the clock. Got it fully warmed up and the oil pressure went to zero at idle. Lifters collapsing confirmed the dash gauge reading. Turns out the previous owner was pulling a large 5th wheel trailer so the oil was running too hot and the engine bearings were getting worn.

I was told the only fix was to rebuild the engine so I switched to 15 w 40 oil in the mean time. Never did change out the engine, the problem reared it's ugly head again at 417K km and I was tempted to go 20 w 50 oil and see how much further it would go but by that time the truck was a rust bucket so I gave it to a neighbor kid.
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We had the stone age, the bronze age, the industrial age and now we are in the age of mass deception and mind control for corporate profit. (The mass media age)

[NJ John]

Hindsight, my first car, a 75 Vega wagon. The fuel pump in the tank went bad. My father had this AC delco pump hanging on the wall forever that we added. It was mounted under the hood on the fender well. It worked great and only vapor locked at busy intersections. The kid I sold it too would still complain about it 35 years later. I guess I should have mounted under the car somewhere. Kinda the opposite of the topic.
But, that aluminum block pos did pass emissions with the help of a lot Motor Honey oil additive.
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1973 standard, yellow, lowered, 3” narrowed front, 1600 blo-thru turbo w/single dell 15.4@86, so far
11.41 et buggy. Long gone
Let’s go O’s! Let’s go O’s!
https://www.youtube.com/@AirSpooledGarage

[Cusser]

My 1971 Super Convertible (mine since 1976):
1835cc engine with thin-wall 92mm cylinders, Arizona yet !
shroud-mounted external oil cooler
lifetime warranty rebuilt master cylinder from Autozone
2 lifetime warranty wheel cylinders from Autozone

My 1970 sedan (mine since 1972):
ran dealer-installed AC for 2 decades
relocated headlight witch to under the dash (to correct a stereo static issue back in the 1970s)
cut access panel to get to #3 and #4 spark plugs, especially important in the days of leaded gas

I'm sure there are others on my VWs where "prevailing wisdom" differs....
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[volksworld]

mixed brass 45 degree male fittings with 37 degree AN hoses and nothing leaked...this just came to mind after reading another post where someone using the right stuff cant get them to stop leaking....

[evanfrucht]

I had a plastic fuel filter in the engine bay of my last engine for about 10 years, almost 100k miles. Kinda stupid but they never leaked or failed.

The heat riser tube was fully clogged the whole time I drove that engine. It always worked fine, warmed up quick, no carb icing but the intake would get cold under the carb on a cool morning... never seemed to make a noticeable difference tho. Some people say you need it but I would say you do NOT in a hotter climate.

When I put in my new engine recently I relocated a better (smaller micron rated) metal fuel filter under the car with a homemade bracket attached with the trans side cover nuts. Then I also put a cheap plastic filter in the front of the car directly under my gas tank to act as a pre-filter so I don't have to change the metal filter as often... So I guess you could say I wised up
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1967 Bug ( the daily rod )
1964 Fury Wagon ( the pavement shredder )

[Q-Dog]

I've got one of them glass fuel filters on my car. I had it on my convertible for a couple hundred thousand miles, but now it's on my buggy. Also, I burn the absolute cheapest ethanol gas I can get. Funny thing is I used to have to clean out that damn filter once every month or so until I started using the ethanol gas. Back then I had the filter in the engine compartment to make it easy to clean.
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Brian

'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle

[Brian_e]

I have a light flywheel, 94mm cylinders, and 9.3:1 compression all in a heavy baywindow.

All things that aren't supposed to work, but have been fine for 20k miles in 3 years.

Brian
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www.type-emotorsports.com

[volksworld]

owned a vw shop since 1975 and installed a couple thousand plastic fuel filters between the pump and carb...never with clamps and always with new conti braided hose...no issues...i did refuse to use the glass ones though....and pretty much every american car i saw back in those days had the filter in the engine compartment too

[Cusser]

[Wreck]

Both cars have simple Facet clacker fuel pumps , no regulator .
Both have enough oil coolers that the oil never goes over 90C /194F
hydraulic lifters in a type 4 with 15w60 oil 20 years now just under 100K miles
Single 40DCN weber with no manifold heat .

I think a lot of people don't look outside their location and use . Whats works in tropical Australia probable won't work in temperate North America or Europe .
I don't know how many times Ive heard the line " My 200 hp drag engine doesn't need that so why do you "

I don't get the thing on plastic fuel filters in VW engine bays . A properly sealed air cooled VW engine bay runs cooler than a water cooled car . One has a big fan moving cool air into and out of the compartment , the other has a big fan pullingl air through a hot radiator in to a compartment with an exhaust manifold in it .

[Floating VW]

Intelligence is knowing the correct way to do things.

Wisdom is knowing what you can do wrong, and still get away with.
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"It's time you started treating people as individuals, rather than mathematically predictable members of an aggregate set, regardless of how well that works."

[joemama]

I too have always run a plastic fuel filter in the engine compartment, never a problem. I like that I can easily check its condition, and replace it. I think the original concern was with stock carbs, where the weight of the filter could loosen the pressed on gas inlet on the carburetor. Also, those glass inline fuel filters screw together, and have a habit of loosening up and leaking.

[Pruneman99]

Don't use the glass EMPI or whatever cheapo filters. I put one in just temporarily so see if it would catch and leftovers debris after a gas tank clean out.

The treads are smashed on the sides to let the gas through instead of drilling a hole through the shaft. What was left of the treads failed, the filter completely fell apart, and washed down my entire engine with gasoline.. it was a miracle it didn't catch fire.

[RailBoy]

Put the correct Zink Oil in it... The Big One! RB
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[quote="smitty24"]"HELP, I ported my own heads and now have fire coming out my ass" .[/quote]

[stevemariott]

I ran a GEX-built hydraulic lifter 1641 in my baywindow bus for around 60,000 miles - I took it out because I had a hotrodded 1776 I wanted to replace it with.

The 1641 was still running just fine, so I put it on the shelf. The bus and 1641 have both been in storage for years, and they'll be back together again soon.

That being said, if I were buying new parts - I wouldn't buy a GEX engine or run 87s in a bus again.
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1963 Manx copy
1968 Bus

[67rustavenger]

[nextgen]

OK big one, how about the T-1 vs T-4 engine war that went on for years till there was enough T-4 engines in T-1 cars that proved the T-4 was the superior engine.

Ran, cooler, longer with all the upgrades the T-1 should have had, like a real full size spin on oil filter, larger oil cooler and Aluminum Cases etc.
_________________
email: [email protected]
The TYPE IV UPRIGHT CONVERSION MANUAL
BEETLE MAGNETIC DEFLECTOR SHIELDS
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[madmike]

2110cc stock heads and heater boxes,,, in a 70 Bus,, 40,000 mi+
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'Black Ice'Drag Buggy 'Turbo'
Rail Buggy 1915 turbo
76 Drag/Street bug 2180cc 'Turbo' 11:85 @113 mph"If I go any faster I'll burn up the Hamster" ,gets 28 mpg. also 10/09/22 11.90 @115 mph
"If I'm ever on Life Support,UNPLUG Me, Then Plug me back In see if that Works"

[hendovw]

You can’t run 92mm cylinders, to thin: I run them in my 73 thing built the engine in 1998 has 40,000+ trouble free miles
You can’t run a 009 distributor with a 34 pict carb: I run this combo in a 73 standard, a 70 autostick, a 66 bus, no problems
Never run a 30mm oil pump, makes too much oil pressure, causes oil leaks: I’ve been machining and building Volkswagen engines for over 30 years I run 30mm oil pumps in every engine I build (except for autostick, 40hp, 36hp) no issues.
You must run oils with zinc: I’ve never had a cam failure in any of my engines. Do a proper break in, use the proper valve spring pressure, use quality cam and lifters. No issues
Bottom line: certain combinations might need tweaks to work, but a blanket statement that “you can’t do that” is usually false.