1976 Type 2 Engine Tin/Heat deflection plates??

[cpatrice]

Hi again, Just discovered that my engine does not have the heat deflection tins and having trouble locating some. We bought the bus last November and are having a blast learning/discovering and enjoying, but are total air cooled newbies.

Searched the forums pretty good looking for this issue re: type 2 without much luck..

This bus had a total motor rebuild of what I assume was the original engine in 2019, and I have the ticket from the shop that did the re-build, and they are saying it's a 2.0 litre engine. Will 1600cc tins work assuming I can find some?

Many Thanks...Happy Labor Day weekend to all

[busdaddy]

[Wildthings]

There are two basic designs of VW air cooled engines. There are Type 1 (Beatle) style engines that were used in Transporters up through 1971 and there are Type 4 engines that were originally designed for Type 4 cars and for Porsches and were used in US spec Transporters from '72 through 83 1/2. The Type 4 engine were build in three sizes 1700, 1800, and 2000 (1.7L, 1.8L, & 2.0L). There is very little that will interchange between the Type 1 and Type 4 engines, specifically including all the tin.

[Shonandb]

[cpatrice]

Thank you for the posts everyone, and especially for the post linking to the classified and available parts...super helpful! Here are a couple pics of our engine...obviously the heater is not hooked up, missing parts and non operational.
Our mechanic is a good guy specializes in VW's. He told me we are missing "rocker arm heat deflection plates". He said they are part of the heating system, but also help the bus run cool in hot weather and on long trips. Are these tins available in the classifieds, and if so, which parts would they be?
FWIW the engine underwent a total re-build Aug 2019...along with the dual Weber carb install. I have the original ticket from the shop that did the work. No clue why the heater system wasn't made operational then, but my guess is that it was broken, and the cost to repair was above and beyond budget during the re-build. Any thoughts/info greatly appreciated...Many Thanks again!

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[SGKent]

you are checking for these essentially:

Ken Madsen has a set for sale. I think 72-79 are the same (not 100% sure) but it will take some work to add them after the fact. They cool the bottom of the cylinders. Without them bad things would happen. Make sure they are really missing because upright engines use a completely different set up, and if the guy who told you they were missing is only thinking of upright motor ones then he may not be familiar with the T4 engines.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2374273

upside down engine showing them from the front. You should be able to see if they are there or not from underneath.

_________________
“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[Wildthings]

You get the work you ask for and are will to pay to have done, so if you don't ask a shop to fix your heat as part of the rebuilding process they are not going to do it. That said the under cylinder tins (as shown by SG Kent) ares an important part of the cooling system and have to be installed at part of the rebuild as the engine must be partially disassembled to install them. I would doubt your under cylinder tins are missing though as they can't just be casually removed and tossed like so many of the other tins. It seems more likely you are missing your sled tins that protect the pushrod tubes from damage. They are easily removed and installed with the engine in place and are often tossed. The right side sled tin is required for proper operation of the thermostat, while the left side tin solely serves as protection for the pushrod tubes.

The lack of the booster fan and the flexible tubes running from the fan to the heater boxes is fairly trivial. You will notice little difference in heat output if you just seal off the ports on the engine and forget the booster fan as the vast majority of the air for the heaters comes from the engine cooling fan and the booster fan adds a only a meager amount of extra flow at idle. It is way more important that the connections between the fan shroud and the heater boxes are well sealed than trying to get the booster fan to work. If the seals here are missing and particularly the two little caps then you will lose a high percentage of your cooling air.

A cap for a chain link fence post will seal the riser on the left side of the engine while a piece of aluminium flashing can be shaped to make a cover for the riser on the right side.

You can see the cap in this picture

And you can see how I just taped over the plastic adapter (which you may not have) in this picture.

Since these pictures were taken I have permanently sealed off the openings in the heater boxes and tin so I will never have to deal with them again.

[cpatrice]