Getting Pan bolts started

[pgslaughter]

How difficult should it be to get the pan bolts started in the captive nuts?

I have a 63 pan/67 bodied beetle. I was recently under the car and realized that 4 of the pan bolts weren't actually tightened at all, they were being held by the rubber pan seal, but were not in the nuts at all. I tried tightening them but I can't even get them to start. I have read some topics about "elongating" the holes, etc. This is only on the drivers side, and all 4 are together, I think it's the third bolt back all along the bottom of the door sill.

I can see the nuts through the holes, but they are not lined up. What is the recommended way to "elongate" the holes in the pan? I don't want to strip the nuts while I do it and make the situation worse. I believe the body has been on the pan for at least 2 decades, so this isn't a new thing, but I did only get the car 3 years ago.

Quick thought as well, if I elongate the holes are the large "washers" not going to work, or will I need to clip them to fit in the channel?

[ZENVWDRIVER]

Hugh, wonder y the holes are not lined up? I have put a 1950, '55 and other bug-bodies on later pans and the mounting holes usually lined up pretty closely - Guess, it all depends how far off the mis-allignment is - if it's just a small fraction of an inch, I have experienced that and started a mounting bolt, loaded with a lubricant and with a ratchet and proper socket, force- screwed that sucker on - usually worked - I don't pussy-foot around - I make it work and it usually does...
… how far off is the hole alignment? z

here's getting a 1960 Euro body high enough to put onna' later pan...

_________________
5/50, pastel green 11G - SOLD
8/50, gray 11A Beetle
6/52, pastel green 11C - SOLD
11/4/52, black Zwitter - SOLD to my little bro.
1954 Porsche, pre A, with VW 36 horse- SOLD
1/54, black 11C Beetle - TRADED
2/55 Iceland green Beetle, on a 1965 pan
3/55 113 Beetle, stratos silver
1955 Messerschmitt KR175 - SOLD, sadly
1960 single cab
1962 SO33, with SO 42 interior
9/63 Pacific blue, Ghia
'87 Toyota MR2
'02 WestFORDia E-150, GAVE TO OUR SON

All super-heroes, wear a MASK

[pgslaughter]

I can see the nuts through the hole, it's probably 1/8 to a 1/4 inch at most. I can get the point of the bolt in the hole, but it won't thread since it's at an angle. I'd rather elongate the hole I think than possible strip the threads on the nut? Other than the 4 under the driver door sill all the others are bolted up, including the 2 big ones at the front. Not sure if the others had to be messed with to get them in, but I'm not taking them out to find out either!
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1963/67 Beetle

1968 Squareback

[Busstom]

Wanna be surgical about it?

Dremel with a miniature carbide burr (rotary burr, cylinder burr, etc).

You can use 1/4" shank burr on a die grinder with air, but that will be pretty aggressive with some grabbing and potential unintended wallowing when it bites. A Dremel approach will go more slowly but be more precise with more control of the tool. A Dremel will use a 1/8" shank, but again, the burr will be much less aggressive.

It's not the end of the world if you kiss the opening of the threaded holes with the burr, because, with as many years as those open threads have been exposed to the elements, I would invest in an 8mm "thread chaser" to clean them before you run screws into them anyway. Look at Summit or other similar distributors for an ARP brand metric thread chaser. But, there's an air gap where the gasket is anyway, so I think you can avoid the threads with the burr and not induce unintended damage.

End.

[ZENVWDRIVER]

[pgslaughter]

Thanks for the replies guys, I'll look to see if I already have a burr for my dremel, otherwise sounds simple enough. Zen, I have tried forcing it, but if I have to use any more force than I have I think it's too much!
_________________
1963/67 Beetle

1968 Squareback