New engine and exhaust...overheating?

[Xevin]

[Wxman2000]

On the advice of the shop, I drove it how I normally would. Which in my case, probably closer to babying it than driving like I stole it. Typically slow-moderate acceleration and hang right at the speed limit wherever I happen to be. Shift out of 2nd around 30, out of 3rd at 45 or 50 if I’m going up an incline.

Gas is too expensive lately to drive it hard!

[Xevin]

Random observations and thoughts that may or may not be related to your current situation.

Is your heat riser fully attached? Any gaps around them. Could just be the small picture on my phone.

Did your builder install the cylinder head tin?

What brand of heads did the builder use? Some heads have cast flashing issues that can hinder cooling unless they are cleaned up.
_________________
Keep on Busin'

[beetlenut]

You kind of want to drive it more like you stole it, to help seat everything. Lugging the engine, long pulls up hill. Don't drive it at one rpm for too long like on the highway. Others will differ with their break-in procedures. You definitely generate more heat during the initial 500 miles due to all the metal on metal contact of the parts seating themselves. Keep an eye on your oil color too. When it gets dark, or Gray, or has lots of shinny metal flakes to it, good time to change it early on.
_________________
scrapyards are for quitters
---------------------------------------

[Wxman2000]

From what I’ve looked at, all engine time is in place like it should. There is a small gap around both heat risers where things don’t quite line up like they should. A triangular shaped gap about 1” by 2” but it isn’t open for that whole size of a triangle. Probably about 50% of that area is an actual gap. Would that be enough to cause problems? On my old engine I had filled in all gaps like that with foil tape, but hadn’t thought about that with the new engine since it looks all purdy without any tape in there.

I’ll start driving like a madman later today I guess!

[Xevin]

[Xevin]

Still curious about what fan was used.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...5c43d1a258
_________________
Keep on Busin'

[Wxman2000]

[beetlenut]

[Wxman2000]

So I got back from the shop that installed the engine and here’s where we ended up. Long story short, they think my oil dipstick is probably wrong. Sounds like they quit selling them years ago due to too many issues. They checked my car with one of the laser temp gauges in several spots and all the temps looked normal…this was after pulling in with the dash light on regarding my sensor.

Since it’s driving fine and not acting like it’s running hot, they think there’s nothing to worry about

Regarding the doghouse they installed, I looked at another one they had and it does have the ductwork and vanes inside of it. My pulley is also full stock size, it seems I measured wrong when checking it.

So I’m guessing it’s nothing to worry over after talking with them who didn’t seem concerned at all with the temp readings they weee getting from their device.

[Starbucket]

Check the valve clearance, the valve clearance will tend to tighten up as the valves and valve train seat in and if the valves don't have good contact with the valve seat they will get hot raising head temp and oil temp.

[Xevin]

Did the shop build the engine?
_________________
Keep on Busin'

[Frank Bassman]

New engines do run somewhat hotter.
I wonder what the jetting of that 34 pict is? If 127.5 or even 130, it may be running a little lean.

They will run quite hot when lean.

2 degrees more or less in timing won't change your temperature by much, if at all.

-Frank

[Wxman2000]

[Wxman2000]

[Wxman2000]

[Zundfolge1432]

I’ve seen them run hot because the tar board blocks air intake. If this was already mentioned excuse me.

[Wxman2000]

[VW_Jimbo]

Love the speculation and the questions! Good stuff!

Now, let’s get down to business. What is the compression ratio? That is the BIG ? High compression, due to slapping stuff together, without measuring stuff, makes for some high head temps! What are the builders notes? Very interested in what the target compression ratio was.

Besides that, you can try richening up the base idle mixture a 1/4 turn and see if that offsets the heat being generated. A lean combustion chamber makes for high heat! Fattening up the mixture will offset that a tiny amount. Maybe enough to get you in the safe zone.

10- 30, in my opinion is asking for it. I would get some straight 30w in there unless the builder has a warranty. That thinner viscosity oil may be playing tricks with the pressure relief pistons. Been down that road a few times.

Bottom line is take it back to the builder and make them sort it out!

FWIW. That aftermarket shroud SUCKS! Get something with internal vanes and a thermostat. On my 2127, I took an Empi 36 hp shroud, added vanes that mimicked the stock shoes and added flaps and a thermostat. My temps are super low, TOO LOW!

My $.02
_________________
Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!