1300 runs only when starter is engaged

[Mitch-Again]

I had a new 1300 installed in my Ghia 10 years ago. Due to kids, hurricanes and work, I never ran in much. I tried firing it up last week and am only getting it to run with the starter fully engaged. It sounds great, but as soon as I let off on the ignition (to run position) the motors dies. Installed a new ignition switch, but did not fix the problem. Any thoughts on troubleshooting much appreciated. -

[busdaddy]

Everything you describe sounds like an ignition switch problem, new switches aren't all perfect right out of the box anymore.
Temporarily attach a test lead between the battery + and the #15 (+) terminal on the ignition coil (the one with the black wires on it) and see if it stays running. You'll have to remove the jumper to stop it if that works.
If that test proves positive it's time for a closer look at the ignition switch, and maybe how you connected the wires if a test light shows the black (ignition/run) wire shows voltage when you release the key.
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[modok]

Have you cleaned the points?

[Mitch-Again]

Thanks for the quick responses! I'll try the test lead from the battery to coil in the morning. Sounds like a good way to verify a working ignition switch. As for the points, I'll check them, but it runs like a beast with the starter engaged...would dirty points even allow that to happen?

[busdaddy]

[modok]

In some conditions yes. I'm not sure how you would know it runs correctly with the starter engaged. You can't drive very far like that without roasting the starter

[Mitch-Again]

When starter is engaged, I can give it gas and it purrs. When I let off the starter it dies completely, no sputter.

[modok]

Did you test that the ignition switch works before or after you "Installed it"?

If the wires were on wrong...... then it would do that. I don't think I ever tried it, but, yep pretty sure that any wrong way would produce this type of result.

[Dale M.]

As others mention it sounds like you are losing power to coil when you let off ign. switch from "start" to "on"....

Hot wire coil to battery and see if it runs when you back key off, if does, as others have said you have bad ignition switch......
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[dogmeat]

I do not know this car but I know electrics and I know other vintage cars. typically there is a "ballast" resistor in the circuit. the key switch has Start and Run..... in the Run position battery power goes through the ballast resistor to lower the voltage to the coil. in the Start position the battery is connected direct to the coil.

the reason for this is that when the starter is engaged, the battery voltage drops. the coil is actually made to produce normal spark at 9-10 volts (which is what you get during start) once the engine is running the power to the coil must be reduced or the coil will fry. that is accomplished by the ballast resistor.

check the wiring to the switch, my guess is it is not wired correctly. and yes, unless you have a modern ignition replacement you still need the ballast resistor. they are wire wound ceramic... low ohm, high watt

[busdaddy]

[dogmeat]

ha ha,,,, see, told ya I don't know, but bring it over, I'll figure it out and fix it

P.S. check the switch

[bsairhead]

Swap the two red wires. The one coming from the fuse block and the one going to the starter.

[earthquake]

Does it have the solenoid on the side of the carb? Is the wire on it go to the coil?

eQ
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[Mitch-Again]

Thanks for the great discussion on my problem. So I tried the test wire from the + battery terminal to the #15 (+) terminal on the ignition coil as suggested by Busdaddy and others and it worked. Was able to keep the engine running with ignition key in the "run" position. Engine ran fine until I disconnected the test lead. Then tested voltage at the #15 terminal on the ignition switch when key was in run position ang got nothing. So does this mean the "brand new" switch is bad? I guess that what I get for $16. Any additional thoughts welcome! Thanks again guys.

[Pops67Beetle]

Before you decide the ignition switch is bad try running a jumper from a hot terminal to the wire to the coil at the fuse block. If still no power to the coil then the connection at the fuse block is bad/corroded or the wire itself is bad.
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[busdaddy]

Sound advice, but the OP says they already tested at the switch and got nothing on #15, sounds like China's finest strikes again......

The only other possibility I can imagine would be a severely worn lock cylinder not quite getting the switch into the happy spot, another switch would still be first on my list before digging into a job like that.
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[Dale M.]