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Curil T case sealing specifics?
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boondocksdrew
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2021 10:42 am    Post subject: Curil T case sealing specifics? Reply with quote

I'm getting ready to seal a case and haven't found a lot on specifically how/how much Curil T should be applied. Should I not just put it down as a bead and let the case spread it? The few pics I've seen it looks like people are kind of spreading/brushing it around. If it goes on as a bead, right now I've got it coming out around 2mm diameter. Does that work?


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And just stay to the outside of the bolts?
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2021 10:47 am    Post subject: Re: Curil T case sealing specifics? Reply with quote

Give an acid brush a haircut so the bristles are ~ 3/8" long, then use it to dab the sealer on in an even thin layer all over the seam, it should have a texture like popcorn ceilings when you are done.
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2021 12:33 pm    Post subject: Re: Curil T case sealing specifics? Reply with quote

I've done it both ways--a thin bead all around, or brushed to a very thin full coverage layer with an acid brush. Both worked; neither leaked.
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2021 3:51 pm    Post subject: Re: Curil T case sealing specifics? Reply with quote

I use brake cleaner/electrical contact cleaner to clean the surface, then spread a very light coat with my finger. its so light that hardly any squeezes out when putting the halves together. Its a machine finish, 98% of whatever you put on should be squeezing out, keep that in mind.

All that said, I switched from Curil-T to Loctite 518. Its more "uniform" in this application at super thin leftover amounts.
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MuzzcoVW
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2021 5:31 pm    Post subject: Re: Curil T case sealing specifics? Reply with quote

I also switched to the Loctite 518 and love it. The Curil is good to but I find the 518 easier to apply
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2021 7:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Curil T case sealing specifics? Reply with quote

jpaull wrote:
I use brake cleaner/electrical contact cleaner to clean the surface, then spread a very light coat with my finger. its so light that hardly any squeezes out when putting the halves together. Its a machine finish, 98% of whatever you put on should be squeezing out, keep that in mind.

All that said, I switched from Curil-T to Loctite 518. Its more "uniform" in this application at super thin leftover amounts.



^^^^

And there are also even better products than the 518 that are in the same family. I think we had a thread on these just about 2 week ago....either here or in the bay window forum.

Either way....in my opinion ....on a machined jint with a potential gap that can range from just above "0" to maybe 0.0005"....with oil on one side (which is a solvent at ome level)....and with potential pressure......I would use a very thin film, low viscosity sealant that CURES.....so it does not stay in paste form.....whether its aerobic or anaerobic.

Ray
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Rome
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 26, 2021 3:16 pm    Post subject: Re: Curil T case sealing specifics? Reply with quote

Quote:
98% of whatever you put on should be squeezing out,
After you bolt the case halves together, run a paper towel along the case seam to wipe off the sealant that squeezed out. You wipe your nose after blowing it... Wink
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txoval
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 26, 2021 5:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Curil T case sealing specifics? Reply with quote

Ray,

Could you list those other products?
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 26, 2021 7:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Curil T case sealing specifics? Reply with quote

txoval wrote:
Ray,

Could you list those other products?


Here is that thread. Its a short and I think good thread.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=758785&highlight=curil

A lot of people like 518...and I cannot disagree...as its the right "type"....to some extent. The problem with 518 is that even with very fine kerf machine work ...if there is enough "height" to the machined Kerfs that significant oxygen can be trapped during the squeeze out of the 518 or other 'anaerobic" sealants....they wont cure.

What you need for joints like those....is a slightly thinner viscosity "518"....and they make that. I will have to dig up the part #. I posted it somewhere just a little while back. I will find it.

The gist is....the smoother the surface of a finely machined joint like a transmission case or our engine cases....the thinner the viscosity you need to make sure that the squeeze out...forces out all air.

Slightly rougher surfaces need slightly higher viscosity to fill the valleys and flush out oxygen...like 518.

Also....if gettit thin enough is a problem...you "could " use a solvent curing joint adhesive like Yamabond, Hondabond, Three bond or Permatex motoseal.

These are great because if you smear then on as thin as you can....60% more of it will evaporate leaving only the solids. Ray
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