Author |
Message |
vwwestyman Samba Member
Joined: April 24, 2004 Posts: 5688 Location: Manhattan, Kansas, USA
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
arminyack Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2017 Posts: 74 Location: Claremont
|
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2021 12:13 pm Post subject: Re: 1973 bay Window ALH conversion |
|
|
vwwestyman wrote: |
I did try to make an in-bay radiator work, and even cut away a rotated battery tray just like that.
But it still didn't work. Even after cutting a vent down low, it still didn't cool enough. Now I get jokes about having a battery door! |
What did you wind up with for a radiator?
Im currently eyeing this as either a 2nd radiator underneath, or as a the only radiator..
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
vwwestyman Samba Member
Joined: April 24, 2004 Posts: 5688 Location: Manhattan, Kansas, USA
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
SGKent Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 41031 Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
|
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2021 3:19 pm Post subject: Re: 1973 bay Window ALH conversion |
|
|
when the VW engineers confronted where to put the radiator on late water cooled buses and vanagons they could have put their radiators anywhere during production. Made any angle or compartment that wanted. They chose to put them out in front.
images from online
_________________ “Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin |
|
Back to top |
|
|
markd89 Samba Member
Joined: November 04, 2005 Posts: 657 Location: Los Angeles
|
Posted: Tue Sep 28, 2021 8:39 pm Post subject: Re: 1973 bay Window ALH conversion |
|
|
Hey looking nice!
I used 2 A2W units in series. Using one was not enough.
Looking forward to the rest of your build _________________ 78 TDI Sunroof Bus
Los Angeles |
|
Back to top |
|
|
arminyack Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2017 Posts: 74 Location: Claremont
|
Posted: Thu Sep 30, 2021 3:14 pm Post subject: Re: 1973 bay Window ALH conversion |
|
|
Progress a bit slow so far this week...looking into how to mount microswitches for the brake and clutch pedals (cruise control stuff). I've also got a tach to go in, as well as a GP light to put somewhere on the dash, mount my coolant temp gauge...and I need to acquire a Scangauge II to monitor IAT, among other things.
I hung the muffler, which is a factory unit from a BMW 2002 Turbo ive had in my garage for years.
I'm alos thinking about the fuel return line into the gas tank. Currently, I'm using one of the 2 vent connections at the top of the tank to return to. I am concerned about static charge build up, and the possible need to run a pipe down to the bottom of the tank and return to that...I know this is a must with gasoline...but I am not sure about Diesel fuel? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
vwwestyman Samba Member
Joined: April 24, 2004 Posts: 5688 Location: Manhattan, Kansas, USA
|
Posted: Thu Sep 30, 2021 3:18 pm Post subject: Re: 1973 bay Window ALH conversion |
|
|
Diesel's not real scary/explosive.
For the brake switch, I used a relay that was triggered by the brake lights to provide that signal to the computer. I don't know for sure what signal an ALH computer is looking for with the brake signal. In my AHU, it expects to see a ground when the brake is engaged, so I used a relay to make a connection to ground when the coil is energized.
For the clutch, the ECU expects to see the connection to ground break when the pedal is depressed. I used a normally open switch initially, but it got wonky, so I just connected the wire directly to ground... _________________ Dave Cook
President, Wild Westerner Club
1978 Champagne Edition Westy, repowered to '97 Jetta TDI
1973 Wild Westerner
My Thing |
|
Back to top |
|
|
markd89 Samba Member
Joined: November 04, 2005 Posts: 657 Location: Los Angeles
|
Posted: Thu Sep 30, 2021 3:58 pm Post subject: Re: 1973 bay Window ALH conversion |
|
|
arminyack wrote: |
Progress a bit slow so far this week...looking into how to mount microswitches for the brake and clutch pedals (cruise control stuff). I've also got a tach to go in, as well as a GP light to put somewhere on the dash, mount my coolant temp gauge...and I need to acquire a Scangauge II to monitor IAT, among other things.
I'm alos thinking about the fuel return line into the gas tank. Currently, I'm using one of the 2 vent connections at the top of the tank to return to. I am concerned about static charge build up, and the possible need to run a pipe down to the bottom of the tank and return to that...I know this is a must with gasoline...but I am not sure about Diesel fuel? |
Fuel return line, interesting. My bus was FI so I was already setup for a return line.
Microswitch for brakes. My MC has two (redundant) switches on it. We used one of those for the brake switch. I think I used it to switch a relay which switches the signal the computer needs.
Clutch switch I used a microswitch which comes with a longer lever arm and bent it so that the bottom of the pedal would push it down. Sounds mickey mouse but it has held up pretty well.
I use a Scangauge II also. I also have an analog temp guage using an analog sender where the water comes out of the head.
On water... The coolant bottle has a two prongs that go into the water. I made a circuit which drives an LED and a really loud piezo if the water gets low. I was thinking I would burst a tube at some point and wanted to know immediately if that happened. Turned out that that part of the system has been completely solid.
P.S. Jealous of that AC compressor!! It's one of the things I regret not doing and now am not in a position to do so. _________________ 78 TDI Sunroof Bus
Los Angeles |
|
Back to top |
|
|
arminyack Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2017 Posts: 74 Location: Claremont
|
Posted: Thu Sep 30, 2021 7:08 pm Post subject: Re: 1973 bay Window ALH conversion |
|
|
markd89 wrote: |
arminyack wrote: |
Progress a bit slow so far this week...looking into how to mount microswitches for the brake and clutch pedals (cruise control stuff). I've also got a tach to go in, as well as a GP light to put somewhere on the dash, mount my coolant temp gauge...and I need to acquire a Scangauge II to monitor IAT, among other things.
I'm alos thinking about the fuel return line into the gas tank. Currently, I'm using one of the 2 vent connections at the top of the tank to return to. I am concerned about static charge build up, and the possible need to run a pipe down to the bottom of the tank and return to that...I know this is a must with gasoline...but I am not sure about Diesel fuel? |
Fuel return line, interesting. My bus was FI so I was already setup for a return line.
Microswitch for brakes. My MC has two (redundant) switches on it. We used one of those for the brake switch. I think I used it to switch a relay which switches the signal the computer needs.
Clutch switch I used a microswitch which comes with a longer lever arm and bent it so that the bottom of the pedal would push it down. Sounds mickey mouse but it has held up pretty well.
I use a Scangauge II also. I also have an analog temp guage using an analog sender where the water comes out of the head.
On water... The coolant bottle has a two prongs that go into the water. I made a circuit which drives an LED and a really loud piezo if the water gets low. I was thinking I would burst a tube at some point and wanted to know immediately if that happened. Turned out that that part of the system has been completely solid.
P.S. Jealous of that AC compressor!! It's one of the things I regret not doing and now am not in a position to do so. |
Good info..but I decided to just put permanently 12v on the clutch switch, and routed the brake switch to the brake light line coming ouit of the switch on the MC. Done!
For the coolant level circuitry...did you just straight up ground to one prong, and attach the buzzer to 12v on one end, and the the other prong to the other end? I haven't messed with it at all...so i dont know how much the resistance drops when coolant is in there
AC is phase 2 of this project. Im headed to the ICEAC kit sans/ compressor. Ill do that over the spring, and hopefully have an AC'ed bus for next summer. it gets damn hot out here in the inland empire |
|
Back to top |
|
|
markd89 Samba Member
Joined: November 04, 2005 Posts: 657 Location: Los Angeles
|
Posted: Thu Sep 30, 2021 10:25 pm Post subject: Re: 1973 bay Window ALH conversion |
|
|
RE: Coolant circuitry. No, it's not that simple. It needed an integrated circuit. I did this all about 8 years ago, so forget details. Fortunately, I did keep some notes which may get you started.
LM1830 is a monolithic integrated circuit that can be used in liquid level indicator / control systems. Manufactured by National Semiconductors, the LM1830 can detect the presence or absence of polar fluids . Circuits based on this IC requires minimum number of external components and AC signal is passed through the sensing probe immersed in the fluid. Usage of AC signal for detection prevents electrolysis and this makes the probes long lasting. The IC is capable of driving a LED, high impedance tweeter or a low power relay at its output.
You may also find something already built for this purpose. _________________ 78 TDI Sunroof Bus
Los Angeles |
|
Back to top |
|
|
arminyack Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2017 Posts: 74 Location: Claremont
|
Posted: Fri Oct 01, 2021 9:36 am Post subject: Re: 1973 bay Window ALH conversion |
|
|
markd89 wrote: |
RE: Coolant circuitry. No, it's not that simple. It needed an integrated circuit. I did this all about 8 years ago, so forget details. Fortunately, I did keep some notes which may get you started.
LM1830 is a monolithic integrated circuit that can be used in liquid level indicator / control systems. Manufactured by National Semiconductors, the LM1830 can detect the presence or absence of polar fluids . Circuits based on this IC requires minimum number of external components and AC signal is passed through the sensing probe immersed in the fluid. Usage of AC signal for detection prevents electrolysis and this makes the probes long lasting. The IC is capable of driving a LED, high impedance tweeter or a low power relay at its output.
You may also find something already built for this purpose. |
I think I found my animal right here..it uses an LM1801.
*edit: this isnt it. This one beeps when liquid hits the sensor. The LM1803 one below is the one.
There is also this I found that looks interesting
https://citroen.tramontana.co.hu/en/electrics/windscreen-washer-fluid-level
Last edited by arminyack on Fri Oct 01, 2021 10:24 am; edited 1 time in total |
|
Back to top |
|
|
markd89 Samba Member
Joined: November 04, 2005 Posts: 657 Location: Los Angeles
|
Posted: Fri Oct 01, 2021 9:40 am Post subject: Re: 1973 bay Window ALH conversion |
|
|
There you go! _________________ 78 TDI Sunroof Bus
Los Angeles |
|
Back to top |
|
|
arminyack Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2017 Posts: 74 Location: Claremont
|
Posted: Fri Oct 01, 2021 10:17 am Post subject: Re: 1973 bay Window ALH conversion |
|
|
and a LM1830 version
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
arminyack Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2017 Posts: 74 Location: Claremont
|
Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2021 1:39 pm Post subject: Re: 1973 bay Window ALH conversion |
|
|
So I drove it yesterday for the first time...results!
Tranny hard to get into 1st and second. probably needs shift plate finagling.
Cooling systems needs to be revamped: its runs too hot. ~210 on a 75 degree day. I'm getting a bigger radiator (https://www.ebay.com/itm/353616178030) with 2X 10" SPAL pusher fans, and I'm putting it on the passenger side under the car. Going away from the engine bay mounted radiator....failed experiment.
Fuel leak. I had no leak before my trip to the gas station, and filled her up. After the tank was full, diesel started to pool up slowly from behind the radiator. it must be from the filler neck where it meets the tank. What a PITA.
EGT's: Low. staying around 800ish on my short freeway cruise.
Vibration: Minimal. I only really feel it starting to to kick it at around 3500 RPM, but I should have shifted already. If is 3500 in 4th...im going too fast! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
markd89 Samba Member
Joined: November 04, 2005 Posts: 657 Location: Los Angeles
|
Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2021 3:11 pm Post subject: Re: 1973 bay Window ALH conversion |
|
|
Gear shifting might be the clutch not disengaging enough. I had to shorten the arm on the trans housing so that it would get pulled a little more. If I had to do it over again, I would have gone hydraulic. There are sandrail kits for that. _________________ 78 TDI Sunroof Bus
Los Angeles |
|
Back to top |
|
|
P24p1 Samba Member
Joined: August 20, 2020 Posts: 363 Location: Canada, Quebec
|
Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2021 4:38 pm Post subject: Re: 1973 bay Window ALH conversion |
|
|
So how much did the whole project cost? I'd love to do this on my bus but something tells me it costs close to 5 figures.
Also, I think you need some nice OEM taillights to replace those yellowed ones! Might be the lighting but they look faded. _________________ 1973 Westfalia named Angie
What rust?
Rev it - don't lug it! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
arminyack Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2017 Posts: 74 Location: Claremont
|
Posted: Sat Nov 20, 2021 7:41 am Post subject: Re: 1973 bay Window ALH conversion |
|
|
P24p1 wrote: |
So how much did the whole project cost? I'd love to do this on my bus but something tells me it costs close to 5 figures.
Also, I think you need some nice OEM taillights to replace those yellowed ones! Might be the lighting but they look faded. |
5 figures, heavens no!! Id say I'm about 5 grand in, and that with a whole host of unexpected issues that cropped up. The biggest thing
1.) Acquiring a good, lowish miles used ALH motor that the seller doesn't think is made of gold
2.) Getting the transaxle rebuilt, regeared and strengthened
3.) labor...lots and lots of labor. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
arminyack Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2017 Posts: 74 Location: Claremont
|
Posted: Sat Nov 20, 2021 9:07 am Post subject: Re: 1973 bay Window ALH conversion |
|
|
So I've tentatively settled on this radiator:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/143840523852
It should fit right between the frame rails...and its almost double the face area of the the one ive got in there now, plus its a 3 row, and the current one is 2.
My mains concerns are:
The radiator cap. I don't want this thing opening...and if it so happens it does, I suppose I run a line from the nipple on the vent to the top of the VW tank?
All of the guide tubes for the stock heater control cables, ebrake cables, and clutch cable. There is no doubt that some of these will foul on the radiator + fans....I can cut away to the old heater crap..but the clutch and ebrake stuff must remain. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
badstuw Samba Member
Joined: June 05, 2011 Posts: 36 Location: San Diego CA
|
Posted: Sun Nov 28, 2021 12:34 pm Post subject: Re: 1973 bay Window ALH conversion |
|
|
I'm down in Pacific Beach if you want to check out how I did my radiator and scoop (belly-mounted) on my subaru swap.
I went with a double pass 2-row radiator with 1" core 31" W x 19" H from jegs. part number 555-52039. The price was 185 when I got it, gone up a bit since then. But fits well between the frame. Relocated the inlet/outlet to the side for smooth flow. Fans are on top as a pull setup. temps stay at 180 consistently.
edit: also to add that the two 11" fans I have on the radiator kind of straddle the clutch cable tube and shift rod, etc. so its pretty tucked up there. I did cut out the heater tube. I actually like your heater box setup, might do something similar since I haven't installed heat yet. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
N'Syncro Samba Member
Joined: October 26, 2012 Posts: 3 Location: Edmonton, AB Canada
|
Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2021 1:42 pm Post subject: Re: 1973 bay Window ALH conversion |
|
|
What did you do for gauges? I'm nearly finished swapping in an '05 BRM PD100 TDI into my '77 but am really stuck. I want gauges to fit into the factory locations, but run off the OBD2/Can-bus system. Not having much luck, so i'm scouring the internets right now |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|