Adjusting shift lever and lock out plate

[cjacaruso]

Hello. I have a 1978 Bus. I put in a rebuilt tranny but can't get it to shift correctly. I can get all gears to work but only if I make adjustments to the shift lockout plate. Once I get 2 or 3 gears to work, then others barely work. Reverse works fine but often when I go for 2nd gear I get the grinding letting me know I am trying to shift into reverse while moving forward. I notice a lot of the pieces associated with the shift lever, front shift linkage, little pin inside the ball of the lever, and shift plate are worn. Of particular concern is the end of the shift lever. It has a flat spot which I don't think should be there. See the photo. I can weld, grind, and file to fix these things but I mainly wonder if anyone knows if that shift lever flat spot is supposed to be there or due to wear. The flat spot rides against the reverse lockout tab on the lockout plate.

[aeromech]

You need to weld repair that plus make sure that your forward shift rod bushing is good. That flat spot happens because there wasn’t enough grease.
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VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
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[SGKent]

I'd weld that as Gary said, replace the front bushing if it is gone, check the shift coupler and try again. If that fails it is pull the trans and replace the donut inside the selector. Install the metal plate at the same time.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[ivwshane]

I found this forum post to be very helpful:

https://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=18781

[igotta40]

A year ago I went through the same issue. I had mine welded then I shaped it. Also, I returned the aftermarket junk I had ordered. Back in business. Cost about $10.

[aeromech]

Yep. It won’t work well with that flat spot.
_________________
Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound

[Clementine79]

[busdaddy]

Have you done anything with the coupler at the nose of the transmission?
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[Clementine79]

Have not inspected it yet, we just got the bus back about 3,000 miles ago and they did adjust and inspect the shifter assembly when reassembled. They rebuild the 091 transmission at that time.
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1979 VW BUS
Riviera Penthouse Model

[SGKent]

It sounds to me like you are sort of hijacking this old thread, not in an inconsiderate way, but rather wondering if the things in this thread might be your problem. It also sounds like 3000 miles ago it worked fine - is this correct, or has it never worked right since you got it back? It might be worth your while to start your own thread on the problem so not to confuse people that everything written prior in the thread is you.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[busdaddy]

[Clementine79]

[Wildthings]

[Rooikop]

Newbie here (to a Bus - I've had a 66 Type 1 for nearly 20 years): I'm confused by the references to "the cage part of the shift coupling" plus welding it to "the hub". I've just replaced the shift bushings and rear coupling but don't recognise either of these 2 bits ...............

Anyone help me understand?

I'm having terrible shift issues, and have to double de-clutch for every gear change. This is OK on the move (2/3/4 and 4/3/2) but getting into 1st at any time but especially when stationary is a complete b**ch! I'll try the advice above about pushing the plate forward a bit and see if that helps, but I'm at my wit's end trying to get this sorted out. Currently nobody else in my family wants to drive it, things are so difficult ............

PS: the shift lever is fitted with a low-throw plate and together with the other maintenance I've done things do feel quite tight (in a good way). But even a 1971 Bus has to have a better shift arrangement than this!

[Wildthings]

[SGKent]

what Mike said - pilot bearing or warped clutch lining. How does it shift when the engine is off?
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[alman72]

[Rooikop]

Thanks guys - always good to learn.

So what plan of attack? In order:

1. Keep trying to adjust shift lever. [Also worth trying without short throw kit?]
2. Drop engine and inspect the clutch plate / replace if worn.
3. Inspect Gland Nut and bearing / replace if worn. [I've seen several comments on-line saying these things are pretty bullet proof and rarely are an issue ........... Can I ask what makes you go for this as the cause?]

I don't mind working on the Bus (its a hobby, after all) but there are limits to my time. I really don't want to do more than I have to.

Regards

[SGKent]

Does the transmission shift Ok when the engine is off? If the answer is yes then the problem is likely with the pilot bearing or a warped clutch disk. How does the freeplay feel? If there is too much freeplay that can cause it too. Another rare issue is that the driven disk can be too tight on the input shaft splines and not free to move. Did you dust the input shaft with some moly dust like the manual calls for, or a little high temp grease? Does it slide easily?

If the answer is that it still doesn't shift correctly when the engine is off then the issue could be in the shifter or the transmission.
_________________
“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[Wildthings]