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ALIKA T3
Samba Member
Joined: July 30, 2009
Posts: 6345
Location: Honolulu,Hawaii and France
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Sodo
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2007
Posts: 9600
Location: Western WA
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 Posted: Thu Sep 02, 2021 2:07 pm Post subject: Re: Smallcar bellhousing clutch options |
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| ALIKA T3 wrote: |
| What the plate you got on the drain side?? |
It's a cover, to make a wider, lower drain hole.
So my pump can suck trash off the bottom.
_________________
'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb |
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ALIKA T3
Samba Member
Joined: July 30, 2009
Posts: 6345
Location: Honolulu,Hawaii and France
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| Posted: Thu Sep 02, 2021 4:33 pm Post subject: Re: Smallcar bellhousing clutch options |
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| Sodo wrote: |
| ALIKA T3 wrote: |
| What the plate you got on the drain side?? |
It's a cover, to make a wider, lower drain hole.
So my pump can suck trash off the bottom. |
The hole was that high?! Behind the plate??
The bellhousing I modified recently had a drain hole that wasn't completely at the bottom but I just modified it a bit with a burr.
_________________
Silicone Steering Boots and 930 Cv boots for sale in the classifieds.
Syncro transmission upgrade parts in the Classifieds.
Subaru EJ22+UN1 5 speed transmission
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416343
Syncro http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...num+gadget |
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Sodo
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2007
Posts: 9600
Location: Western WA
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| Posted: Fri Sep 03, 2021 7:53 am Post subject: Re: Smallcar bellhousing clutch options |
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| ALIKA T3 wrote: |
The hole was that high?! Behind the plate??
The bellhousing I modified recently had a drain hole that wasn't completely at the bottom but I just modified it a bit with a burr. |
The plate goes high because the angled hole runs out high.
Because I have a suction pump I wanted to vacuum the floor from low.
It might suck air once the oil level got below the runout of the angled hole.
👍🏽👍🏽
Back when I built this (2016) I was very afraid of “losing prime” on the pump. But experience with Weddle’s gear pump has shown there is zero concern whatsoever. The Weddle pump is a beast, it can suck a gallon jug dry sitting on the ground, with the van on ramps. Up 24 inches, perhaps more. I should have tested it rather than believing the internets.
So anyway if anyone is grinding a Smallcar bellhousing to eliminate the 12mm sediment dam, a cover plate is unnecessary.
_________________
'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb
Last edited by Sodo on Fri Sep 03, 2021 10:59 am; edited 2 times in total |
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ALIKA T3
Samba Member
Joined: July 30, 2009
Posts: 6345
Location: Honolulu,Hawaii and France
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16CVs 
Samba Member
Joined: February 22, 2004
Posts: 4024
Location: Redwood City, California
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| Posted: Fri Sep 03, 2021 9:40 am Post subject: Re: Smallcar bellhousing clutch options |
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It seems to me that this whole thread is an endorsement for RJES.
I actually sat and read the complete thread. I like the idea enough to dump my adapter plate and hyper extended flywheel and get parts that fit. It looks like this may cure my dying at stop light issue.
My engine builder (Ken) says he will not build any more Subies that use a KEP style flywheel. I’ve done a lot of upgrades to this conversion and with each step it gets better.
I want to update the cooking system as well and need to commit to doing them as two separate projects or just go for it.
Stacy
_________________
1987 Syncro Westfalia Triple knob (bastard)
1989 Syncro Tristar Triple knob "Swedish"
2013 Jetta Hybrid a true "Zwitter"
Samba member # 14980
Call anytime number 650 722 4914 .
Keep Your van running and upkept tastefully for the love of the hobby.
Don't let your van end up in an "abortions" thread. |
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Sodo
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2007
Posts: 9600
Location: Western WA
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| Posted: Fri Sep 03, 2021 12:48 pm Post subject: Re: Smallcar bellhousing clutch options |
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| 16CVs wrote: |
| It seems to me that this whole thread is an endorsement for RJES. |
It's not a slamdunk but a dilemma. You can go back and read my assessment from 2019 ( page 15 of this same thread https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9213104#9213104)
RJES is clearly engineered and a finer build quality.
But bellhousings are not bling nor rocket scientology. Maybe in the very beginning of production.
But Smallcar solved:
1) input shaft spacer problem that they added by simply un-adding the offending spacer in 2011. The bellhousing is shortened from 131mm to 123mm. The spacer is a ticking time-bomb. My trans is OUT of the van, right now, due to this stupid spacer.
2) over-extending the slave by adding spacers to the master cylinder to limit the volume of fluid sent to the slave.
3) clutch abruptness, not even simple denial, they call it a benefit which is utter BS. The sales description reads: Super smooth clutch disengagement, no more stiff and glitchy pedal or $100 cross shaft
Smallcar is $769 and RJES is about $1000.
People are just tossing Smallcar bellhousings for the clutch glitchiness.
You can get them for a song and are worthwhile if you can fix it.
But if buying new, you might consider if $300 covers the drain hole problem and crappy magnet. You probably have to deal with your clutch pedal clevis anyway.
Here's how to fix a Smallcar bellhousing:
1) First of all determine if it's old or new. If the bottom flange is 20mm you have to get it milled to 12mm so you can remove that (11.3mm?) spacer from the input shaft coupler. Machining 8mm off the gasket surface is a task for a machine shop. Your engine and moustache bar will move 8mm forward (one hole!). 
2) Remove the sediment dam from the drain hole. FYI.....you are hanging a big engine on a little (perhaps old) transaxle. There will be more sediment. You have to up your maintenance game and get that (increased) trash out of there often. More often is longer transaxle lifetime. RJES uses an OEM VW magnetic drainplug. Smallcar uses a "joke" magnet the size of a pea. It's instantly overwhelmed thus you cannot make any useful observations about your lubricant condition or transaxle's health. Drill it out to M24x1.5 DIN906 and use a VW OEM drain magnet (not really 'easy'). Or homebrew a drainplug of your own with a magnet about the size of a VW magnet. Be absolutely certain it doesn't let that magnet loose into your gearbox. I drilled mine out & re-threaded to 3/8NPT.
3) Drill a new hole in your clutch pedal 13mm closer to the pivot and spacer the master the same amount (13mm). See this image. I used 13mm and 13mm is working good after 2 years. This matches the fluid output of the Vanagon Clutch master cylinder to the Golf slave cylinder that Smallcar has chosen. If your pedal has an inch or more slop (up/down slop at the pedal) you MUST address your clutch pedal clevis anyway, 1 inch means failure is coming soon. So in that case you just drill a new hole and abandon the old worn out hole.
4) The Golf slave that Smallcar chose, (aside from the fluid volume mismatch) is not such a bad idea as it's being used in 300+ other VW models, for 20 years. Millions and millions of vehicles. As such there is plenty of opportunity to study its reliability and if you do.... you will find it's super-reliable. You MUST bench bleed it before installation. If you put it in dry then try to fill it from the outside you may have to take it out. It's spring loaded. You squeeze it like a squeeze-bulb and suck fluid up into it BEFORE you bolt it into the bellhousing. It's a closed system, a bellows. There are no seals to leak or wear out, ever. The throwout bearing can wear out similar to a standard throwout bearing wears out after some time. like a whole clutch lifetime. I'm not buying the concern of being 'inside the bellhousing'. They're reliable. The cross-shaft is inside the bellhousing and those have lots of problems too, breakage, wear, bearings frozen, dragging, that all require engine or trans to be dropped. External slaves leaking can wreck a trip too. There are plastic aftermarket slaves and metal ones. I have had a metal one for 12 years and 90,000 miles. That's the extent of my experience.
OK hope this helps.
As said, if you buy the RJES you will have a $1,000 bellhousing that's nicely made.
For $769 you will have to put a bunch of effort into it, maybe $300 worth.
But if you can get a Smallcar for free from some feller who got fed up and bought an RJES..........
_________________
'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb
Last edited by Sodo on Tue Sep 28, 2021 7:35 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Sodo
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2007
Posts: 9600
Location: Western WA
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| Posted: Tue Sep 21, 2021 9:36 am Post subject: Re: Smallcar bellhousing clutch options |
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Here's another mod I'd do for the Smallcar bellhousing.
You have increased the duty-cycle on your Vanagon trans something like "double".
It will make more metal in the oil, and you need to be monitoring the steel that falls down from above the magnet (when the oil is still).
Here's a pic of the magnet included with the Smallcar bellhousing.
It's very quickly inundated, and thus tells you "nothing" about the lubricant condition.
Here's a pic of how far down the (tiny) magnet sits in the well (behind the 12mm high "drain dam").
Plus it's in a 'shadow' - the particles falling down by gravity bypass the magnet and fall to the floor of the trans.
So you don't get a comparable hairdo.
Recommend to get a longer drainplug and drill a hole in the end, and JB-weld a longer magnet into the hole.
I have NOT done this because my drain setup is completely different.
I found this Mercedes plug that is longer and thus will extend the plug up out of Smallcar's deep drainhole.
You may have to grind off some of the threads towards the end.
I'd build my own magnetic drainplug, something like this.
Then you can actually compare your magnet "information" to other Vanagon pics that appear on theSamba.
But keep in mind you want much smaller hairdos.
Either by having a clean running trans, changing gearbox oil sooner, or using a "lighter foot" (or all 3).
OK hope this helps !!
FWIW... with my Smallcar bellhousing spacer removed, sediment dam removed, and the clutch pedal modulation correction .... I'm happy with my Smallcar bellhousing.
_________________
'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb
Last edited by Sodo on Tue Sep 21, 2021 11:18 am; edited 5 times in total |
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skemems
Samba Member
Joined: February 23, 2017
Posts: 204
Location: Portland
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| Posted: Tue Sep 21, 2021 10:21 am Post subject: Re: Smallcar bellhousing clutch options |
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Great info, thanks for sharing.
I need to figure out a replacement drain plug. I'm currently using the one the came with the smallcar bellhousing. |
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Howesight
Samba Member
Joined: July 02, 2008
Posts: 3273
Location: Vancouver, B.C.
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| Posted: Tue Sep 28, 2021 1:09 pm Post subject: Re: Smallcar bellhousing clutch options |
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| Sodo wrote: |
| 16CVs wrote: |
| It seems to me that this whole thread is an endorsement for RJES. |
It's not a slamdunk but a dilemma. You can go back and read my assessment from 2019 ( page 15 of this same thread https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9213104#9213104)
RJES is clearly engineered and a finer build quality.
But bellhousings are not bling nor rocket scientology. Maybe in the very beginning of production.
But Smallcar solved:
1) input shaft spacer problem that they added by simply un-adding the offending spacer in 2011. The bellhousing is shortened from 131mm to 123mm. The spacer is a ticking time-bomb. My trans is OUT of the van, right now, due to this stupid spacer.
2) over-extending the slave by adding spacers to the master cylinder to limit the volume of fluid sent to the slave.
3) clutch abruptness, not even simple denial, they call it a benefit which is utter BS. The sales description reads: Super smooth clutch disengagement, no more stiff and glitchy pedal or $100 cross shaft
Smallcar is $769 and RJES is about $1000.
People are just tossing Smallcar bellhousings for the clutch glitchiness.
You can get them for a song and are worthwhile if you can fix it.
But if buying new, you might consider if $300 covers the drain hole problem and crappy magnet. You probably have to deal with your clutch pedal clevis anyway.
Here's how to fix a Smallcar bellhousing:
1) First of all determine if it's old or new. If the bottom flange is 20mm you have to get it milled to 12mm so you can remove that (11.3mm?) spacer from the input shaft coupler. Machining 8mm off the gasket surface is a task for a machine shop.
2) Remove the sediment dam from the drain hole. FYI.....you are hanging a big engine on a little (perhaps old) transaxle. There will be more sediment. You have to up your maintenance game and get that trash out of there often. More often is more miles. RJES uses an OEM magnetiv drainplug. Smallcar uses a "joke" magnet the size of a pea. It's instantly overwhelmed thus you cannot make any useful observations about your lubricant condition or transaxle's health. Drill it out to M24x1.5 DIN906 and use a VW OEM drain magnet (not really 'easy'). Or homebrew a drainplug of your own with a magnet about the size of a VW magnet. Be absolutely certain it doesn't let that magnet loose into your gearbox.
3) Drill a new hole in your clutch pedal 13mm closer to the pivot and spacer the master the same amount (13mm). See this image. I used 13mm and 13mm is working good after 2 years. This matches the fluid output of the Vanagon Clutch master cylinder to the Golf slave cylinder that Smallcar has chosen. If your pedal has an inch or more slop (up/down slop at the pedal) you MUST address your clutch pedal clevis anyway, 1 inch means failure is coming soon. So in that case you just drill a new hole and abandon the old worn out hole.
4) The Golf slave that Smallcar chose, (aside from the fluid volume mismatch) is not such a bad idea as it's being used in 300+ other VW models, for 20 years. Millions and millions of vehicles. As such there is plenty of opportunity to study its reliability and if you do.... you will find it's super-reliable. You MUST bench bleed it before installation. If you put it in dry then try to fill it from the outside you may have to take it out. It's spring loaded. You squeeze it like a squeeze-bulb and suck fluid up into it BEFORE you bolt it into the bellhousing. It's a closed system, a bellows. There are no seals to leak or wear out, ever. The throwout bearing can wear out similar to a standard throwout bearing wears out after some time. like a whole clutch lifetime. I'm not buying the concern of being 'inside the bellhousing'. They're reliable. The cross-shaft is inside the bellhousing and those have lots of problems too, breakage, wear, bearings frozen, dragging, that all require engine or trans to be dropped. External slaves leaking can wreck a trip too. There are plastic aftermarket slaves and metal ones. I have had a metal one for 12 years and 90,000 miles. That's the extent of my experience.
OK hope this helps.
As said, if you buy the RJES you will have a $1,000 bellhousing that's nicely made.
For $769 you will have to put a bunch of effort into it, maybe $300 worth.
But if you can get a Smallcar for free from some feller who got fed up and bought an RJES.......... |
I like Smallcar products and like to support them. I recognize that many of their conversion parts are not finished as well as some competitors. What I don't understand, in relation to their Subaru-to-Vanagon bellhousing, is why they did not simply include a modified clutch pedal as part of the bellhousing kit. They could easily advertise the modified clutch pedal (with, say, a bronze bushing) as an upgraded replacement since most Vanagon clutch pedals have a seriously worn actuator hole. They could sell a pedal with BOTH holes, stock and modified. There is a market for these already.
As Sodo notes above, once I limited the travel on my clutch pedal, the internal slave cylinder became rock-solid reliable.
_________________
'86 Syncro Westy SVX |
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Sodo
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2007
Posts: 9600
Location: Western WA
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| Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2022 8:36 pm Post subject: Re: Smallcar bellhousing clutch options |
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| Howesight wrote: |
| I recognize that many of their conversion parts are not finished as well as some competitors. What I don't understand,,,,,, |
Yes Smallcar has kept a lot of Vanagons on the road (going fast too!)
What I don't understand is why Smallcar doesn't refine their products as problems are discovered.
So their customers don't have to search the internet for the repairs (some have been known for ten years).
The clutch pedal mis-match problem would be a conundrum though, as Smallcar still claims today, that the clutch is silky smooth. To offer a modified clutch pedal to make it actually silky smooth would contradict that. Everybody knows the release band is narrow and abrupt, but you can get used to it (on the road). Used off-road, especially with a Syncro Granny, is where its most noticed.
Imagine all the customers who wish they fixed the 1/2 inch drain-dam before installing the bellhousing. And the tiny drain magnet. This big engine is gonna make more steel trash in the oil. Owners not only need to drain (all of) that steel out but also monitor & compare with other VW-sized magnet pics.
I don't know of any problems with Smallcar's engine mounts and it's vastly superior to RMW's. RMW should change theirs IMHO. Especially for Syncro.
To advance the cause of Vanagon Science....
In case anyone wants ta know what's going in inside the Smallcar clutch/slave bearing unit.
This slave/bearing was installed in 2008, replaced 2021 because the bearing sounded dry.
VW part 0A5141671E & 0A5141671F
Also cut off a "hydraulic fluid plug" from the business end.
_________________
'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb |
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ALIKA T3
Samba Member
Joined: July 30, 2009
Posts: 6345
Location: Honolulu,Hawaii and France
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Sodo
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2007
Posts: 9600
Location: Western WA
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| Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2022 10:33 pm Post subject: Re: Smallcar bellhousing clutch options |
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I figured out what happens in the 0A5141671 Slave/bearing when you over-extend it.
It depends how hard you press on the clutch pedal at the end.
People who push the clutch HARD to bottom-out are not bottoming out on the floor, but bottoming out at the slave cylinder.
Too much pressure deforms the bottom of the cylinder and the static seal lets some oil loose.
It may or may not re-seal.
So you gotta have that spacer limiting the master cylinder
OR
reduce the master cylinder travel with the clutch pedal mod:
------>  (CLUTCH PEDAL MOD for SmallCar Bellhousing)
NOTE: if you ^^mod the pedal^^ .....clutch action will become smooth like butter.....much better for a Syncro driven off-road.
^^NOTE the .030" thickness gauge under the mounting ear.
I found another problem with the OLD smallcar bellhousing.
I had 8.5mm machined off to delete the input shaft spacer.
But now I'm trying to use it and it "blows" the plastic slave/bearings.
I found that the plastic slave needs a slightly deeper well than the metal unit.
Consequently the 3 mounting ears warp the housing and the static seal at the bottom lets go.
Installing the plastic slave/bearing onto the "OLD" bellhousing damages the "Plastic" slave.
Theres 2 ways it can be fixed, I suppose.
1) shim it up about .035
2) grind the pads away the prevents the ears from sitting "flat".
I'm inclined to shim it, so the pads are sitting there below to support the bottom I will epoxy the spacers onto the supports.
I have a newer Smallcar bellhousing too, I don't know the year.
I will check the fit of the plastic slave on the newer unit too.
But anyway, if you have a plastic slave, pay attention to the 'ears'.
Another (not confirmed) problem could be the plastic slave is not strong ehough to operate the "HD Pressure plate".
_________________
'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb
Last edited by Sodo on Thu Apr 21, 2022 6:51 am; edited 4 times in total |
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ALIKA T3
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Joined: July 30, 2009
Posts: 6345
Location: Honolulu,Hawaii and France
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kalispell365
Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2010
Posts: 889
Location: PNW
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| Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2022 8:58 am Post subject: Re: Smallcar bellhousing clutch options |
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I remember reading and seeing somewhere about a large washer being installed behind the plastic slave, but I have no idea where I read about it.
I only use metal slaves.
_________________
1983 Diesel Vanagon Westfalia chassis with Subaru 2.2l |
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Sodo
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2007
Posts: 9600
Location: Western WA
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| Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2022 9:17 am Post subject: Re: Smallcar bellhousing clutch options |
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| ALIKA T3 wrote: |
What a PITA!!!
I'm always buying the metallic slaves, glad I did.... |
PITA is an understatement.
Trans in & out 5 times.
Driving around town to LOOK at slave/bearings.
What happens is.... you bolt it all in and it's all fine.
The (bench-pre-filled) slave "self-bleeds" as you tighten the bellhousing bolts
and you're at least a little thrilled by that. 
Clutch works, doesn't leak etc.
Then after about 20 minutes, the plastic has had enough due to the stressed/bent ears and it lets the seal loose, and the fluid literally POURS out of the bellhousing.
You take it out and can't SEE anything wrong.
You bench-bleed it and it doesn't leak because the plastic has snapped back into shape and the seal is holding again.
Is it all good now? (who knows?)
^^Here's a diagram^^ of the problem. (---->image edited Apr 22, 2022 ! )
I sectioned a metal 0A5141671F slave but haven't cut into a plastic slave yet....
but I'm inclined to....(Vanagon Science & all)  .
--------------
Be sure to check the 3 mounting ears. You want the rear cup to set on its 3 bolting support (ears) equally to the 3 mounting pads for the 0A5141761_'s backside. This may require shimming or epoxy or both.
The depth of the "receptacle" area of the Smallcar bellhousing varies over the years
AND
The depth of the slaves (0A5141761_) vary as well (metal AND plastic slaves).
With the plastic version that I tested, simply bolting the 0A5141761R to the bellhousing bent the ears 0.030", deforming the (plastic) housing. After about 20 minutes the seal breached and the fluid just "pours" out of the slave.
I don't know if the plastic slave is suitable by:
shimming the ears
-plus-
preventing overtravel by pedal mod (or a spacer on the master or pedal limiter)
I don't know of the metal housing prevents this problem entirely.
On my van, using the Metelli (metal) 0A5141761_ the ears were .005" above the ears.
I (perhaps foolishly) decided 0.005" was acceptable, and tightened the bolts.
If I had it apart NOW I would fill that 0.005" space with epoxy or a shim.
See the pic of the metal 0A5141671F slave here.
Deformation of the mounting ear could possibly deform the OUTER cylinder where the dynamic seal slides.
Pretty sure it will be OK but I would shim (or epoxy) if I was in there now......
_________________
'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb
Last edited by Sodo on Fri Apr 22, 2022 8:23 am; edited 4 times in total |
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skemems
Samba Member
Joined: February 23, 2017
Posts: 204
Location: Portland
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| Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2022 9:38 am Post subject: Re: Smallcar bellhousing clutch options |
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| Sodo wrote: |
I sure hope the new owners of Smallcar have solved all these problems.
Would have been nice..... if we didn't have to "discover" all of them. |
Thanks for sharing this post, might help some avoid a plastic slave. I have only used the metal ones with no problems.
Smallcar only recommends the use of the metal slave. Curious why you went with the plastic version?
_________________
87 VW Westfalia - EJ25
86 VW Westfalia - EJ22
85 VW Westfalia - WBX 2.1 project |
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Sodo
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2007
Posts: 9600
Location: Western WA
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| Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2022 9:55 am Post subject: Re: Smallcar bellhousing clutch options |
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| skemems wrote: |
| Curious why you went with the plastic version? |
Because the parts guys at VW didn't know there's a metal one 0A5141671P and just recommend the "latest version" 0A5141671R.
And I just assumed the parts guy was pulled off the street with a shepherd's hook.
And because the internal slave/bearing is considered reliable in ~350 VW models for 20 years.
And nobody could tell me WHY plastic wouldn't work for a Vanagon.
Metal-over-plastic preference is just such a 'standard answer' that I discounted it for that.
I don't know that the plastic slave is "no good".
But I've found a "mounting problem" on a 2009 Smallcar bellhousing.
Thats the current state of my investigation.
Well anyway I think we're onto it now.
And after 5x pulling this trans in 2 days I'd even pay $500 for metal,
un-intelligible blessings appreciated too.
Auburn VW has the metal one 0A5141671P for $223
SmallCar has VW OEM 0A5141671S (or T?) for $195
Why didn't I call SmallCar?
Well I guess it's because in the past they were so cagey, the chance that I might get useful information was dicey, it might just be another rabbit hole.
SmallCar seems very different with the new owners. 
I hope they are able to continue the innovation of the old owners, but customer focused.
Changing customer perception is difficult and I wish them the best.
I just returned from a visit to the new Smallcar, met the new owners.
I handled a bellhousing and compared a Metelli all-metal slave to the OEM VW (LUK) all-metal slave. Got pics etc.
But I gotta get back under the van .....so stay tuned...
_________________
'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb |
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SCP_Austin
Samba Member
Joined: November 04, 2009
Posts: 366
Location: Tacoma, WA
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| Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2022 7:01 pm Post subject: Re: Smallcar bellhousing clutch options |
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Hey everyone! My wife and I are the new owners. This forum saved many road trips with the information contained herein.
We are actively working on new products to support the community at large for Vanagon’s and Bay Windows and we will certainly listen actively to improve our products.
If anyone is the PNW and open to a meeting to discuss ideas—DM me.
Thanks for supporting the business. We have been owners for over a year now and we are blessed to support such a diverse and fun community.
Ps—I will be at Syncrofest with shirts, beers, and some of our team. Hope to see some wills there!
Austin
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skemems
Samba Member
Joined: February 23, 2017
Posts: 204
Location: Portland
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| Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2022 10:25 pm Post subject: Re: Smallcar bellhousing clutch options |
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Scroll up through this thread some have already pointed out a few items on the bellhousing that can be improved.
I have many of your products and overall I've been happy with them.
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87 VW Westfalia - EJ25
86 VW Westfalia - EJ22
85 VW Westfalia - WBX 2.1 project |
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