Alignment Specs for all ACVWs

[meridianVW]

This is all truly great information and I have a couple of comments.
I agree with the statement about ride height in regards to factory alignment specifications but as we all know we modify ride height regularly in our hobby.
These modified suspensions still need to be aligned and factory specs occasionally need to be modified.

SAI in basic terms is the angle formed by a line drawn through the suspension pivot points and true vertical. To SAI add the camber angle and that yields Included Angle. These 2 angles are very important for collision diagnosis.

I spent 25 years specializing in suspensions, steering and alignments and my recommendations would be to talk to the technician and you should quickly be able to determine if he’s the right guy to align your vehicle.

I’ve used bubble gauges, string system alignment machines and all the way to the new camera systems.
I stopped turning a wrench about 10 years ago and feel your pain in locating a sutible technician.
Awhile back I found a great deal on a Hunter alignment system that I couldn’t pass up. I figure it will take maybe 10-12 alignments to break even.
In the attached lower picture I would need to adjust the rear ride height to correct the rear camber angle.
I believe the tire wear will be minimal if any.
I’ll probably just lower the front!

[shakers73]

Can't see photos. Getting error code 502.
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shakers73
'74 Super Beetle
'67 Beetle

Where there is no vision, the people perish.

[FreeBug]

It was mentioned that the alignment isn't that crucial because it's a beetle...

I disagree. If you look at the alignment range for the beetle is waay more exacting than the Golf. Those light front wheels need more attention, and the beetle's suspension is less forgiving for bad alignments.

When the last alignment guy told me he couldn't correct front camber (because he didn't know about the upper eccentric 36 mm cone, I just gave up on the idea of anyone knowing how to do it correctly.

And I would do everything to make it easy for them ( cleaned, all ball-joint threads cleaned and greased, steering box centered with steering wheel, provide them with specs), and yet, still they would screw it up.

I gave up. I'll pay for alignments, but I won't pay someone to DO them anymore.

This is the arrangement I have worked out with the local alignment shop's boss: I pay you a full alignment (130$ for me, instead of 160$ for customer), and you do nothing (except take the cash), and none of your guys have to lift a finger or waste a second. In exchange, I come at the end of the work day, and I can use the lift and alignment machine to do my own alignment, and take the time to do it right (the more wine you bring, the longer you have...). Its a modern electronic machine, no wires, and I just use it as a measuring tool just work with the readout. If they program in an alignment from the databank, it's sure to be wrong and get things mixed up...1300 for 1302, transporter for baywindow, etc... type 3...type what? Those machines just have short memories!

That way I can do it right, take my time, and do things like getting the rear perfect with the "unbolt spring-plate bolts and raise or lower arm before re-tightening" technique. No alignment guy is going to do that.

A buddy has one of those roll-over plates which tells you toe. It's good for little stuff where you know the rest is good, like just changing a steering ball-joint.

Good luck to all for getting what you want out of an alignment shop.

[tzepesh]

I totally agree to the importance of well-done alignment. Surprisingly, the database of my local alignment shop has the correct data for VW 1303 (I printed the specs from my book).
However, the reason for my question is different: I have Porsche 944 turbo brakes and Kerscher struts, and I am trying to determine the correct offset for the wheels in order to obtain a scrub area similar to stock.
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'74 1303S, L98B Viperngrun (extra glitter), German Look
'64 1200, Sea Blue, under restoration

[Floating VW]

[Floating VW]

[FreeBug]

[AlmostHeavenWV_VW]

Likely not the original photos in the beginning of this thread,but here's a post from Glenn

[Eskamobob1]

Did I read this right that a 74 standard is speced with positive camber in the front?
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'74 - front disks/lots more work to do

[SandwichKing]

I'm new to this so I hope I'm doing this correctly. If not I'm sure someone will point it out. Oh well, here goes.
I picked up a 1971 Super Beetle back in January. Absolutely love it. First one I've bought.
I replaced all the steering linkage ie. tie rods and ends, center link, and steering damper and bushing and new ball joints. Swapped drums for disc up front and added adjustable struts to lower it 1.5 - 2 inches.
Took it to get it aligned and now the end of the bolt for the ball joint grinds on the inside of the right wheel when making a sharp right turn. Took it back to shop and was told the right wheel has a different backset than the others and/or the wheel is warped.

Any suggestions?

[Ian]

Take both front wheels off and measure their offset or look for an ET stamp on the back side.
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All your Buses are belong to us.
Love and good roads!
IN LOVING MEMORY OF ROB CRESS 1968-2012
**ACHTUNG DO NOT USE AA BRAND PRODUCTS OR BUY ANYTHING FROM PACIFIC PARTS INTERNATIONAL IN CALIFORNIA**

[sharkskinman]

Ok
So with Widened or shortened beam!
And with the wheels (toe in) correct between each other

How do you make sure the Wheels are Straight to the Car/Beam

And can You use a Simple Magnetic Angle Finder for the Castor
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74 Mexi Swamp Thing. 70 square volksrod (Swamp Rat)..65 C10