Intake Manifold leak on 1-2 - drop engine?

[mikelars]

It appears I have an intake manifold leak on the 1-2 side where the dual Weber IDF 40 manifold meets the DP head. When idling if I spray carb cleaner on the top/back of the location where the manifold meets the head, it noticeably changes the idle.

I can see the near side manifold stud bolt and can feel the far side bolt if the spark plug wires are out - so my question is: do I need to drop the engine to fix the manifold leak? This is a split bus, so the space is tight around the carb and it’s manifold.

Have people taken off the intake manifold, replaced the gasket and reattached the manifold without dropping the engine? (Basically should I attempt this with the engine in place?)

I am mainly concerned about either dropping something in there or not being able to reach the studs/bolts well enough - or worse yet - maybe it is something worse than a gasket leak, like a crack or something and I am not sure I would see it…

I think I even hear a periodic “hiss” out of that side at idle, and the carb cleaner definitely is getting in there and changing the idle…. The 3-4 side does not do that at all…
_________________
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[67rustavenger]

I'd try to remove the manifold before dropping an engine for a vacuum leak.

I have never worked on a Bus. So I can't speak to the difficulty in the engine compartment.
In a beetle. You have about a 1-1.5" circle between the firewall and the carb body. Where you can get a socket and extension on the forward manifold nuts. It's a tricky location.
I use a 1/4 drive 11" extension with a socket on the end. I reach down on that very small space and guide the socket onto the manifold nut. After that, I attach the ratchet to the extension and remove the nut.
It takes practice. But after a few times removing the manifolds. It becomes easier.

Can't you reach around the sides of the manifolds in a bus engine compartment to get to the nuts?
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[mikelars]

I can reach the nuts on both sides. I cannot get a small 12mm socket onto the nut or a the box side of a combination wrench, so my only choice is an open 12mm wrench which should work. The bend in the intake manifold kind of covers up the nut at an angle so you can not quite get a socket or box wrench on there.

I think I will give it a try tomorrow - and just be very careful not to drop anything in the intake ports. It seems like a lower flanged exhaust nut would allow a socket or box wrench to fit on there, so I might consider swapping the nut.

Since I cannot see where the vacuum leak is, I don’t really know what problem I am solving, so I am assuming with a thick fiber gasket and a properly seated intake manifold, that it will seal up.

Might put on some permatex aviation or something (non RTV) that can be used on intake manifolds…
_________________
Here is my 1961 Beetle Restoration:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLW_2wBCs4Ny2qXEPvdnfvEzN42T8JA8zO

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https://youtube.com/channel/UCPBRysmvrJlif2wzwEwiuwQ

2332 Torque Motor Build
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Engine Rebuild 1968cc Playlist:
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLW_2wBCs4Ny1JbZ2EgJQQ2awfo0koZRqz

[Glenn]

12mm swivel socket on a locking extension.

_________________
Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Member #1009

#BlueSquare

[67rustavenger]

When you have a chance. Search for some 8mm x 1.5 thread pitch flange nuts.
they have 10mm hex on them. ACN carries them. Much easier to get a socket on those smaller nuts.

I use them on intake manifolds and exhaust flanges. Much less of a headache!
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/ACN-Flanged-Racing-Intake-and-Exhaust-Nut-8-x-10mm-p/acn-nuts.htm

Buy 24. You'll be glad you did.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[Glenn]

[txoval]

I have never worked on a bus, but when you remove the carburetor you should have more room to reach the nut.

You may have to make a special socket or box end…grind the outside so that it can fit over the nut…may have to heat up the wrench and bend the head as well.

Flare nut wrenches are another option…

These are nice too

https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-84918N-Metric-Un...amp;sr=8-3

[Glenn]

[mikelars]

Ok great. I am pretty sure I can get in there and take off the taller 12mm nuts, and then figure out what to do - probably replace them with lower profile 12mm flange nuts.

I’ll probably only do the 1-2 side which has the leak, and have to see if I have a gasket around. I do have this sheet of gasket material but am not totally sure if it is only meant for exhaust gaskets - it is not the fiber material - more of a crushable metallic looking material.

I ordered more fiber gaskets but they won’t arrive until Thursday…

Anyway - seems doable now - you guys have boosted my confidence.
_________________
Here is my 1961 Beetle Restoration:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLW_2wBCs4Ny2qXEPvdnfvEzN42T8JA8zO

Here is my 1966 Split Bus - Restoration Channel:
https://youtube.com/channel/UCPBRysmvrJlif2wzwEwiuwQ

2332 Torque Motor Build
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLW_2wBCs4Ny2HwsKM9QT4LFpcSqP3QG0p

Engine Rebuild 1968cc Playlist:
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLW_2wBCs4Ny1JbZ2EgJQQ2awfo0koZRqz

[mikelars]

[Glenn]

If your heads are ported and the manifolds match ported, you'll need to trim any store bought gaskets.

I like the Berg gaskets... plenty of meat to them.

_________________
Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Member #1009

#BlueSquare

[mikelars]

Hmm, can I use Remflex GS16511 as an intake gasket? Or is this stuff only for exhaust gaskets?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006G30D6Q/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_Y6J98PVCNEPZW7C1GNKJ

(I have a sheet of this and need a DP intake manifold gasket…)
_________________
Here is my 1961 Beetle Restoration:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLW_2wBCs4Ny2qXEPvdnfvEzN42T8JA8zO

Here is my 1966 Split Bus - Restoration Channel:
https://youtube.com/channel/UCPBRysmvrJlif2wzwEwiuwQ

2332 Torque Motor Build
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLW_2wBCs4Ny2HwsKM9QT4LFpcSqP3QG0p

Engine Rebuild 1968cc Playlist:
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLW_2wBCs4Ny1JbZ2EgJQQ2awfo0koZRqz

[txoval]

What heads do you have?

[mikelars]

[txoval]

If you’re not in a huge rush, order a set of intake gaskets from CB or Berg…or call Tims

They are cheap and can be shipped express if needed. Don’t use the stock metal gasket.

[mikelars]

Ok - very happy - fixed this all before 8:30am:

1. Ground down my 12mm box wrench to be thin
2. Removed larger 12mm nuts - a pain to get at the back one
3. Retrieve back nut/washer with a magnet (didn’t want this in the port!)
3. Disconnected linkage to 1-2 carb
4. Lifted carb and manifold up and to the back (still otherwise connected)
5. Made a thick gasket from Remflex (I had thin metal and thin fiber ones, but this Remflex is pretty thick and I read about people being happy with it)
6. Slipped the fat gasket in there and manifold on top seated well
7. Used copper exhaust bolts with thin washers because they have a rounded top I can get the box wrench onto easily. Tightened down
8. Reconnected everything
9. Started engine and sprayed carb cleaner - NO LEAK!


Then when I measured the carbs with the snail, the one I fixed was pulling like 8, so I had to synch them as best I could to 5.5.

_________________
Here is my 1961 Beetle Restoration:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLW_2wBCs4Ny2qXEPvdnfvEzN42T8JA8zO

Here is my 1966 Split Bus - Restoration Channel:
https://youtube.com/channel/UCPBRysmvrJlif2wzwEwiuwQ

2332 Torque Motor Build
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLW_2wBCs4Ny2HwsKM9QT4LFpcSqP3QG0p

Engine Rebuild 1968cc Playlist:
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLW_2wBCs4Ny1JbZ2EgJQQ2awfo0koZRqz

[mikelars]

(That fiber gasket in the image above was just used as the cut out template - the fat one was already on the car!)

I wanted a super fat gasket to be sure the leak went away…
_________________
Here is my 1961 Beetle Restoration:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLW_2wBCs4Ny2qXEPvdnfvEzN42T8JA8zO

Here is my 1966 Split Bus - Restoration Channel:
https://youtube.com/channel/UCPBRysmvrJlif2wzwEwiuwQ

2332 Torque Motor Build
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLW_2wBCs4Ny2HwsKM9QT4LFpcSqP3QG0p

Engine Rebuild 1968cc Playlist:
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLW_2wBCs4Ny1JbZ2EgJQQ2awfo0koZRqz

[KennyMac1967]

[vanorak]

[nsracing]

There is more room in the bus than a bug. You can sleep in the engine compartment in a bus.

Them pesky fiber gaskets do not last. They get hard and crack.

If I do not want to be worrying about intake leaks between head and manifold, I use brass sheets. YOu can get them in skinny gauges and just make some and stack 2-3 sheets to match your manifold. All you need is a hand shear. I spray w/ copper sealer = DONE!

Don't anyone ever accuse me of not sharing. Enjoy -