Attempting my first repairs this weekend ever! Advice?

[dr.vanagon]

Hi everyone! I'm attempting my first mechanical fixes ever on a car this Saturday/Sunday. I have the following planned:
• Replace Air filter - seems straightforward
• Replace fuel filter with a new Bosch fuel filter - seems relatively straightforward thanks to YouTube - Advice on how to make sure I don't start a gasoline fire appreciated nonetheless.
• Bosch distributor cap (03-214) and ignition rotor - scary
• Refill oil, new OE Drain plug with washer , new oil filter - seems relatively simple
• Swap out the old spark plugs (4) AC Delco R43XL spark plugs - scary
• Ignition wire set - scary

I was wondering if anyone had an tips for these fixes to keep in mind. In particular the scary ones. I'm a bit worried I screw this up and the van stops working. I was intermittently having some slow crank no start issues when I first bought the van a few weeks ago. As advised by some here I bought a 10A battery charger and charged the battery and have been driving it a lot more and she's started like butter since (the only time she cranks slow is upon the very first cold start, but it has reliably started). I bought this tune up kit from GoWesty but have no mechanical experience, that said it seems like a great place to start. I've never even changed the oil on my car before!!

For starters this is a water-cooled 84 and therefore I'm referring to the water-cooled Digijet pages correct?


I'm probably most worried about the spark plug swap. I do have the Bentley manual but wanted to verify some of the details because I fear screwing up the spark plug swap. The manual says the following (28.30 water-cooled Digijet):
- Tightening torque 14 ft lb
- Gap 0.7 + 0.1 mm (what does this mean, I'm a bit confused by the use of a plus here) ... I'll have to go out and buy a spark plug gap gauge it seems!
- Firing order 1432 (tips on how to not screw this up? replace 1 plug at a time and immediately reconnect them right?)
- All in all seems like there is plenty of room for error with this spark plug swap: Not gapping the spark plugs properly, wrong firing order, over tightening/cross threading, coming across a spark plug that is stuck, not having the right tools?

HELP: What tools do I need? I have a good socket set and wrenches etc. however, looks like I'll need a torque wrench to make sure I don't over/under tighten this bad boy. What size torque wrench does this job require (sorry I feel like this is a dumb question)? I really appreciate your help and being taught! Also helps if you point me in the right direction to go and find my answer, I can always come back and verify

I am overwhelmed by the spark plug swap alone hahaha, but any advice on the ignition rotor/distributor cap swap and ignition wire swap is also appreciated. I just haven't gotten around to researching how to correctly perform those jobs.

Thanks again guys, I'll keep you posted on how this goes![/b]
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1984 Vanagon Tin TopClick to view image

[Howesight]

You can buy an acceptable quality torque wrench at Canadian Tire. The "clicker" type is preferable for a DIY home mechanic. The 1/2" drive torque wrench will have a range of, say 5 foot-pounds up to 120 foot-pounds. It is about 20" long. After use, always return the clicker-type torque wrench to zero before you put it away or else it loses calibration. Very soon, you will learn the right "feel" for many non-critical torque values. Spark plugs are non-critical. Cylinder head bolts are critical.

The consensus here on the Samba seems to favour this NGK spark plug: BP6ET

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...;start=180

Most spark plugs come "pre-gapped" these days - - especially the ones with multiple electrodes. But get yourself a set of feeler gauges while at Can Tire covering 0.003" to, say, 0.060". That should be fine for a newbie.

When changing the distributor cap and rotor, be sure to install the cap with the nib in the correct location. Also make sure the rotor is installed pushed down all the way. If the old rotor is stuck (some people use some glue for this), then you can simply crush the old one with a large vise-grip tool after first wrapping a rag around the shaft below the rotor to keep the debris away from the guts of the distributor.

Most GP's have to learn to do a lot of procedures with their skill improving rapidly while doing them. You will experience the same with your Vanagon, the largest difference being the patient will not wince.
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'86 Syncro Westy SVX

[zoti]

You can do it.

Air filter is simple. A few clips. pop the old one out and put new one in.

Fuel filter - easy. Make sure it is clamped properly and it is directional so put it the right way. You can clamp the hose in front of it but some fuel will leak out. Have something ready to catch it. and don't smoke while doing it.

Oil is easy. Watch the torque specs for the oil drain plug so you don't strip it. Undo the plug, drain the oil into a container to catch it. once it's drained, undo the oil filter. It should be hand tight but sometime you will need a tool to undo it. It will have oil in it so be ready to catch that. Guaranteed you'll get dirty.

take some oil and lube the rubber seal on the new filter. Hand tighten it only. You can go as hard as you can with your hand. Don't use a tool.

Refill with oil on a flat surface. Check oil level at the stick. Then start the van, make sure the oil light turns off in the dash. Let it run for a bit. Wait about 5 min and check the oil again. Refill to line if needed.

The rest I would do in this order. Plugs, wires cap and rotor.

Take the wires off the plugs but leave them hanging next to the plug they were attached to so you don't get confused.

Pull the plugs out one by one. Put some anti seize on each new plug, thread first BY HAND and then with a wrench to torque spec.

The install your new wires one by one from plug to new cap duplicating the old setup. Remove the old wires and cap. Don't forget the wire from coil to cap.

The rotor just pulls out and new one snaps back in. It can only go one way. Install cap. It has a notch on it and will only fit one way.

Done. Start your car and test the setup.

Just remember, every nut or bolt you install, start with your hand only to not cross thread it.

[mikemtnbike]

^^Grrrrreaaaaat advice!!!!

Otherwise buckle up buttercup it’s going to be a hell of a ride.
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1991 Vanagon GL 2.1 AT Westfauxlia. "Frankie" Totaled https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=764510&highlight=carnage
1995 Eurovan Camper "Marzivan"
2020 GTI SE manual

[zoti]

Also. TAKE PICTURES WITH YOUR PHONE before disassembling stuff. Do it from different angles. It will save your ass if you mess something up.

[bobhill8]

Just take your time and it will all work out. Before long you will be changing suspension bushings and refreshing CV joints. You gotta start somewhere.
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1986 Westy
1971 Squareback

[sanchius]

Lots of good advice above...

When in doubt, take plenty of before pictures of things like wire routing and rotor orientation.

Spark plug wires - make sure they can't droop and touch the exhaust anywhere. I learned this the hard way

Draining oil: I use a clean drain pan and run a magnet thru the oil after I drain it to see if the magnet picks up any signs of trouble in the form of metal bits/slivers

Always use a torque wrench for final tightening of the spark plugs and oil drain plug. I use a sharpie or paint pen to clearly write the torque values in an obvious place nearby so I don't have to always look them up.

From: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=337102

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The Syncro years (2005-16) - The 2WD years (2017-23) - Westy & WBX rebuild spreadsheet - Sanchius & Tuna: The Video
Your gold star membership keeps this awesome list going!

[kiltedhiker]

Guess I will be the one. How are the fuel lines? Replace them!
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1989 Syncro Westfalia (bought new) sold
1990 Syncro Westfalia sold
1990 Syncro TinTop

[Steve M.]

Eating chicken with your fingers after you finish will help with the grease under your fingernails, but washing your hands with dish detergent is a bit more sanitary!
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This free advice is worth exactly what you paid for it.

There are seven days in a week. Someday is not one of them.

[ProspectiveOwnergon]

After you oil plug is removed stick a magnet on the threads on the engine case. If sticks, you've got timesert or helicoil. Don't over torque regardless, but still good detail to know

[MayorMcCheese]

You probably want a 3/8" drive torque wrench not a 1/2".

[djkeev]

As a newbie....... resist the urge to grab power tools!

Do it by hand for now.

Also choke up on your wrenches, hold them close to the head so as to limit applying too much force and snapping off fasteners.
Experience provides a "feel" for tight enough. Too tight is really easy to do.

Even with a torque wrench inch pounds and foot pounds are hugely different!
Do NOT CONFUSE THEM!

Dave
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Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos

Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473

Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert

[Wildthings]

Hopefully your plugs will come out with no problem. The manufacturers claim that it is not necessary to lube the threads on the spark plugs, but I do it anyway. If you are apt to remove and then reinstall old plugs (say to do a compression test), the use of lubricant becomes that much more important. I typically use a nickle never seize compound, but a high temperature rated grease or oil will work.

For timing your engine, most likely the factory specs WILL NO LONGER WORK, instead you want to set your timing at 28° BTDC @3800+ rpms, hose(s) off and plugged, the DIS (Digital Idle Stabilizer) also needs to be bypassed. At this point your vacuum retard can will likely not hold vacuum when you suck on a hose attached to it, if so you want to leave the hose disconnected from the can and plugged off so it doesn't cause a vacuum leak.

A spark plug gap of 0.7mm + 0.1 mm would be equal to a range of 0.7mm - 0.8mm (0.028-0.032")

[Steve M.]

Take a read of this thread and get to understand what and how "Tencentlife" says about timing.
He was one of the few premier engine rebuilders and really knows what he is talking about.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=261067
_________________
This free advice is worth exactly what you paid for it.

There are seven days in a week. Someday is not one of them.

[sanchius]

Yes, this ^^^^^^^^^^
_________________
The Syncro years (2005-16) - The 2WD years (2017-23) - Westy & WBX rebuild spreadsheet - Sanchius & Tuna: The Video
Your gold star membership keeps this awesome list going!

[dobryan]

[AceTaylor]

For changing your spark plugs, if you have access to compressed air, it's a good idea to blow the dirt out of the spark plug recesses so accumulated dirt doesn't enter the combustion chamber. In lieu of shop air, air in a can for dusting keyboards, etc., may suffice.

[Butcher]

Bring Beer and an ice chest. When to consume it depends on the frustration level. If the beer level is too high, finish it the next day.

[dr.vanagon]

[dr.vanagon]