Garage camper special build questions

[Jetfxr69]

I am in the planning phase of building a Camper Special in my garage this winter and have a few questions. I have been searching and reading tons of older posts on here, shoptalk forums, and RAT technology sites. I am well aware that jake only produces turnkey CS’s these days and no longer sells the kits to build your own. I am also aware that LN engineering has those kits now and all associated individual parts to build such.

I’m not interested in someone telling me how much to spend or that i need to pay someone else to build this. I intend on doing this myself at whatever cost I decide to spend. Yes, i can buy jakes at $25,000, and no, I’m not going to do so.

Reason for build:
This 76 tintop camper will eventually be headed to the Sierra Mtn/Tahoe area to live. It will see extensive mountain climbing and desert dwelling. On any givin day it could be at 10,000’ or cutting through Death Valley. I need it to have enough power for long stretches of highway and mtn grades.

I can already hear Subaru conversion fans typing.

The basics:
2000 GD FI will be the base for this. I have several engines on the floor that were running when removed. One at a time I will breakdown, mic up, and if determined to be worthy, will be sent off for proper align bore checkout and/or rework. Same can be said about crank and rods.

I have a still new in box set of 94mm Mahles that will be used. I’m not gonna open them up to 96 or anything else. Staying at 94 as original.

I’m gonna buy new heads from either Headflow masters or LN.

Plan on using the Raby 9590 cam.

The questions:

From everything I’ve read, the cam works best with the 42X36 increased valve sizes. Did i miss anything about that?

Got into some readings that mentioned bumping up the CR from say 8:1 to as much as 9.5:1 to help it breath at altitude. What effect would that have if it eventually lives at much lower altitudes? I dont want to build it to live exclusively at 10000’ feet. It would probably spend most of its days at 2000’-5000’ with trips above and below that regularly.

With these varied altitudes would I definitely need to install a mixture control rheostat to change a/f ratios? Or is that just a good idea and not really necessary?



I’m already hearing some of you telling me this is NOT the vehicle to do these things. Go ahead, it will fall on deaf ears. I’m certain there’s a few mtn climber busses out there that perform quite well. These are the people I’m looking to share what makes their rigs do well in that environment. If your quite content cruising around at sea level, then I’m happy for you. You are not my target audience.

This is a pseudo camper and will not come close to the weight of my Westy (3860# on the scale), so the much lighter weight should help with climb performance.

No need to cue the bears.
_________________
You can't be a real country unless you have a beer and an airline. It helps if you have some kind of a football team, or some nuclear weapons, but at the very least you need a beer. Zappa

‘77 westy Seamus
‘76 tintop Crusher
‘77 westy The Judge
‘72 tintop bastard westy Hudson

[Igpoe]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RP1R-3gkBpI

Goes up and down with ease!
_________________
'73 super.

[Jetfxr69]

[Alstrup]

Are those Mahle pistons the flat top- or the dished bus version?
Are you ready to add an external oil cooler, or should the engine "handle itself"?
Are you going to reuse the factory injection, or will you go with a newer ECU, - or maybe carbs?
_________________
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=435993

[Clatter]

I did a copy of Jake's Camper Special on my own about 15 years ago.

This being used in a heavy loaded camper on major trips using factory L-Jet.

The Jake formula was followed using his 9550 cam (now the 9590) and some HAM 7440(IIRC?) 42x36 heads with mild pocket or bowl port.
Dished 94 Cofap pistons for 8:1 CR, a T-bird header, first a stock FI distributor, then a Mallory, both re-curved to 12/28.
Did a pro spin-balance on the lower end and balanced the reciprocating parts myself.

It took a bit of fettling to dial in the FI due to the cam and also old junky FI parts,
but other than that, it has hammered the whole fam damily all over the western US for over 15 years.
It pulls trailers, mountain passes, all nighters, boats, dirt bikes, stumps, everything.

I'm old enough that I'd been through a few of these motors in rapid succession before Jake came along and developed a combo the works.
Love it. Best money i ever spent.
You won't regret.

Just don't cut any corners. Adrian heads aren't Len heads. Do it ALL.
These can last a lifetime..

_________________
Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Jetfxr69]

[Jetfxr69]

[Jetfxr69]

And you stuck with 8:1. I guess I got sidetracked reading about altitude issues with that ratio. Your proof of success sticking with the 8:1 is the validation I’m looking for, thanks.
_________________
You can't be a real country unless you have a beer and an airline. It helps if you have some kind of a football team, or some nuclear weapons, but at the very least you need a beer. Zappa

‘77 westy Seamus
‘76 tintop Crusher
‘77 westy The Judge
‘72 tintop bastard westy Hudson

[67rustavenger]

[Jetfxr69]

Ok. I guess I read that to mean the other way around. Not partial to either/or. Looking for y’all’s opinions. If I’m gonna spend that kinda cash, I want to know I’ve got a good return for my investment.

Thank you for clarifying that. Or better yet, perhaps clatter could clarify that.
_________________
You can't be a real country unless you have a beer and an airline. It helps if you have some kind of a football team, or some nuclear weapons, but at the very least you need a beer. Zappa

‘77 westy Seamus
‘76 tintop Crusher
‘77 westy The Judge
‘72 tintop bastard westy Hudson

[67rustavenger]

I'm likely reading the post incorrectly. It does sound like Clatter is saying Len heads.

Sorry if I am misleading you.

Slinking back into my corner.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[modok]

I'm sorry it's so expensive but I guess that's how things are.
HAM & L&N do a good job.
I worked on an engine with the "other guys" heads, I re-did them, did not like how the seats had burrs under them and the valve springs were not adequate.

I think that's what he means

[Alstrup]

[Jetfxr69]

Al- thank you for that info. I am not dis-missing any of that, but I’m gonna try to keep this build as stock as possible for the ease of future maintenance. While there’s nothing stock about an improved cam or built up heads, at least all the other parts will look and act as a normal late bay FI engine should.

This build is going into my daughters bus and while she is learning how to maintain a powerplant that is twice as old as her, I dont want to burden her with advanced engine theory.

That along with the plan for her to sell this some day and hopefully reap the reward of a solid, strong runner, is another reason to keep it “modest”. I wouldn’t want a future buyer to be overwhelmed with what’s back there.

Again, thank you for taking the time to share all that information. This is why I come here and pose the questions. The wealth of knowledge on here never ceases to amaze me, yourself included. Cheers, jay

Edit: I do like that muffler you mentioned. I believe part of the Raby equation was to have better flowing exhaust. That appears to be a solution that just made my build list.
_________________
You can't be a real country unless you have a beer and an airline. It helps if you have some kind of a football team, or some nuclear weapons, but at the very least you need a beer. Zappa

‘77 westy Seamus
‘76 tintop Crusher
‘77 westy The Judge
‘72 tintop bastard westy Hudson

[Alstrup]

The easier maintenance was actually part of my recommendation to go with a newer ECU. The old D & L jet ECU´s - are - exactly that, old. by switching to new parts you get less risk of break downs and easy access to parts at the local FLAPS AND an engine that is better controlled.
If you want to you can use the existing harness, but check for cracks in te wiring as they can result in the weirdest problems, new or old ECU. You can also use the existing jets, but I would recommend going to the local junk yard and find some Bosch injectors from a newer vehicle, maybe a 2010-2015ish model with performance in the same range per cylinder. (around 25 hp/ cylinder)
_________________
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=435993