Intake Manifold

[popeye613]

[popeye613]

these are the block numbers if anybody care can figure them out please ?

Guess this could be the first step to see if its a 1500 or 1600.

Well that picture sucked.lol numbers are 7163003 plus a H5

[modok]

I have to to assume the tachometer is not working right.

Your intake manifold looks very skinny. Might be a 1300 manifold.
It is very hard to eyeball it from a picture, so I could be wrong, but it's worth looking at. Measure the size of the tubes or look at the part number on it. Also worth looking under the valve cover to see the casting # on the heads.
should be 311-101-373 for 1500/1600 heads

Most 1500 engines become 1600 when the cylinders are replaced.
1500 size cylinders are no longer available.

The case number tells you what it was, but does not tell you what it is now.

[popeye613]

You maybe correct on the manifold cause its pretty dam small.

I thought the same on the tack not working correct. but while shifting from 1st thru 3rd it will go up to 3 grand or higher before i shift. but soon as i grab 4th it drops to 2100 rpm .

[modok]

even if you had the tallest gearing combination of factory trans ratios,
3.88 final drive from a ghia and a .77 fourth from a bus...... and a 25" tall tire, 2100 rpm would still only be 52mph

So we could assume the transmission has aftermarket ratios?
3.44 ring and pinion, and a .77 fourth, and a 26" tall tire THEN you would be there. But I doubt the ENGINE would be able to accelerate in fourth gear at all. You would hit top speed in third


It is POSSIBLE it's just not likely, maybe you and your tach are calibraed for 6cyl diesels.

[popeye613]

Tires are 205/14's 25.5 tall and the gear ratio I have no freaking clue. 4th gear as you stated while on the highway has hardly any pick up except going down hill. My left foot will fall asleep from holding to the floor board on a long ride.

tack has a recalibrate button on back side which I have messed with but no change .


I do like diesel comment.lol

[oprn]

Yes we have all agreed that something is screwy with the tach. No point going down that road again.

I have often wondered how much extra drag tops create on a Buggy. It must be like dragging a bloody big parachute down the highway. It would be interesting to take it off and see what the difference is.

As for a carb change to add power... ya - but - no not really. Three or four more HP is not going to do what you need and all the related drivability issues that will crop up until it is sorted out will hardly be worth it. You have 3 choices in my opinion, 1) a complete re-engineer of that engine - big change in displacement, cam, heads, ignition, intake/carb/EFI, and exhaust. 2) turbo and proper controls for what you have. 3) an engine transplant from something altogether different.

The first option is the most expensive by far.

Dinking around with different carbs on that engine as is will keep you busy but little else of real value will be accomplished. This is not meant as a negative response, just a real life view from past experiance.
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We had the stone age, the bronze age, the industrial age and now we are in the age of mass deception and mind control for corporate profit. (The mass media age)

[popeye613]

Man your probably 100% right about the top. With zero side windows all that air is going to back glass. Trust me when grandkids are riding in the back seat its 1 windy ride cause they do complain. lol

[YDBD]

Just go with a 1904cc and dual 40s..and Topless!
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'56 pan Dune Buggy since '69
don't live in the past...but when I did:
'67 bug
'64 baja
'60 dune buggy
'73 Personenkraftwagen Type 182 "Thing"

[oprn]

Notice the position of the gas gauge relative to the speedo needle? Yup they are directly connected!

[oprn]

Another advantage of no roof is the rear passengers will be warmer on a cool day/evening from the warm engine air that is pulled up from the rear by the vacuum the windshield creates. I measured it at 10* higher than ambient on ours. And they need to tie down their hair as it blows forward into their eyes.

This is with a 1911 and Webers. I have a time delay built into my gas gauge! You should look into that YDBD.

And a little known secret... yellow is faster... Shhh - keep it to yourself!

_________________
We had the stone age, the bronze age, the industrial age and now we are in the age of mass deception and mind control for corporate profit. (The mass media age)

[popeye613]

Well went and bought a good timing light with rpm/advance on it today. Will see if the rpm tach is a piece of shit .

[Alstrup]

I agree. Yellow is faster
A friend of mine sports a yellow buggy too with a nippy 2056 T4. Peaks at 110 mph. I think we have photo of the gps reading somewhere

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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=435993

[RailBoy]

I ran this with a 44 IDF on a 2110 Street Legal Sand Rail in Va. In winters just took the average of warm up as normal and the car ran fine. Check out the info. RB

https://vwparts.aircooled.net/Deluxe-Centermount-Intake-Manifold-Kit-Weber-IDF-p/99004.315.htm
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[quote="smitty24"]"HELP, I ported my own heads and now have fire coming out my ass" .[/quote]

[oprn]

I still have some serious doubts about adding all that carb to a stock cam single port 1500 guys! My gut feeling is that it would add far more tuning/drivability problems than any resulting small power gain would be worth.

I bought a rolled Westy for $350, used the engine for a core, spent just over $2000 to freshen it up including stock heads from Brothers, Web cam and a set of good used Webers from a reputable guy here on the Samba. The result while not exactly mind numbing is all the power I need to run in modern highway traffic.

I could have had the same results out of a refresh on the 1600 DP with a little turbo limited to 6 psi boost for a similar dollar.
_________________
We had the stone age, the bronze age, the industrial age and now we are in the age of mass deception and mind control for corporate profit. (The mass media age)

[popeye613]

finally did a compression check today( 92-100psi on all 4 ). Hooked up timing light with rpm reading @1050. Rev'd motor up to 3,000 rpm watching dash tack,timing light was @ 4500-4600 . guess what got smashed with a hammer ? time to buy another tach.

[oprn]

Oh ya! We saw that coming... Nice, that sounds right in line now. You are a bit on the low side for compression but a t least it is even. At this point I would keep track of oil consumption fairly closely. If it is excessive then time for a refresh. It should still run ok at that though.
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We had the stone age, the bronze age, the industrial age and now we are in the age of mass deception and mind control for corporate profit. (The mass media age)

[popeye613]

Did a oil change back in spring and i have not added oil since. Also i check the level dam near everytime before i drive it.

Now tell me more about turbo setup please ?

[bigbore]

I ran a bug spray on a 1600 dp on a manifold like the back in the 70s it did ok and there wasn't much choice then you could get a zenith but they were alot of money now days there are better choice's.
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where its cold and snowy

[oprn]