Cooler Engine

[mickey12]

I have the following engine set- up

1968 Type 1 converted into a Super Bugger camper. 2021cc engine with a MOFOCO 1776 block. Full flow with CB performance sump. Dual EMPI 44 carbs. Engle w 110. Has a stock dog house cooler. Got this engine from a sand buggy guy and know very little about it.

I need to cool the engine down. If I drop some HP, that’s okay. The plan is to (see photos):
1. Replace the crank pulley with a lager one to increase fan speed. Any suggestions on size?
2. Replace the fan pulley if needed. Is this necessary? What size?
3. Once the pulleys are replaced, then put on a new belt. What size/brand?
4. Install an external oil cooler and fan. (nothing fancy)
• I assume that the outlets on the sump (see arrows) is where I hook-up?
• Which outlet is “out” and which is “in”?
• Don’t know the size of the oil pump, does it matter at this point?
• I want to use JIC fittings with a push-loc swivel nipple for ease of removal.
• Any additional plumbing that needs to be done to make this work?
I just want to cruise around at 60 MPH without melting the engine. The more simple, the better.

_________________
1968 Type 1 converted into a Super Bugger camper. 2021cc engine with a MOFOCO 1776 block. Full flow with CB performance sump. Dual EMPI 44 carbs.

[VWporscheGT3]

Forgive me if it normally is and just isn't pictured here.... the bottom half of the engine bay needs to be sealed off so it isnt recycling the hot air coming off the bottom of the engine for 1.

- going back to a stock size pulley will absolutely help.
- Install a filter mount , right now there is no point to your setup and it loops from the oil pump (bottom) to the case. after the filter mount you can mount a thermostat and external cooler if needed ( i recommend doing this in steps so your not throwing money away, most critical is getting the air flow correct with all the right tin in place.
-oil pump Lower square shaped below and behind the pulley is your out line , the case fitting is your in.
-as far as fittings others will chime in... i prefer AN fittings with steel braided hose but others use push loc with great success

-Trevor

[Vanapplebomb]

You don’t have any of the engine compartment sealing tins. Your cooling fan is sucking up the hot air the engine farted out.
_________________
1800 Type 4 Berrien 295

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=487021

[Glenn]

Stock fan shroud, all OE factor tin, body to engine seal and stock size pulley.
_________________
Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Member #1009

#BlueSquare

[67rustavenger]

To the posters above. If you didn't notice. The OP is installing the engine in a Bugger MH,

BTW, Super cool!

OP, it is suggested that you get every cooling tin for your engine. You're gonna need all the help you can to get the engine cooler.
The tins that are currently in place are a little lacking. Get all the parts to help it.
Lower rear tin bits from the cylinder head tins will help direct air around the cooling fins on the heads and cylinders.
A thermostat and flaps will help regulate temps too. That'll take a new fan shroud, or you can modify yours to fit the flap and thermostat.

Industrial lower tins will help direct hot air out from under the engine.

You really need to figure out a way to seal the lower engine bay from the upper area.
Like it's said above. Your are sucking super heated air into your engine cooling system. That's not a good idea, in a heavy vehicle like what the Bugger is.

In this case an oil cooler is likely in order to get as much heat out of the oil as possible.

Are there provisions for engine compartment ventilation on the Bugger?
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[Nightshift]

You may want to consider installing a clamp on the fuel line at the pump first. Or you may not need the cooling tins in the future.

[Kjell Roar]

And remember that thick oil viscosity like 20w50 also makes the engine run hotter than thinner oils.
_________________
I got a historic car, every scratch got a history...

My car, Aug. 4th, 1955 / an early 56: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=610438

[mickey12]

thanks for the feedback. I'll let you know my plan of action.
_________________
1968 Type 1 converted into a Super Bugger camper. 2021cc engine with a MOFOCO 1776 block. Full flow with CB performance sump. Dual EMPI 44 carbs.

[toxicavenger70]

I would get the rest of the stock tin in place and then cut some new metal to make the original tin meet up with the sides of the engine compartment. You ideally want it completely sealed. Once you get it trimmed out you can use some universal rubber gasket or foam seal to complete it.

I have to say you have one of the coolest rides on this forum!

[busdaddy]

Another option would be a rubber boot feeding the fan from elsewhere (fresh cool air), like the dusty condition optioned baywindow trucks used. But I'd still do some tin work around the engine just to keep dirt and puddles from getting it filthy and wet.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[Alstrup]

Not the right engine for such a vehicle. It has a wind coeficient similar to a barn door. You need loads of torque and power in the lower to mid rpm. That engine works generally frm 300 & up
One of the reasons to why it runs hot is that it is out of its comfortzone
_________________
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=435993

[toxicavenger70]