Official Fuel injection questions thread

krisbeetle · Samba Member Joined: September 30, 2005 Posts: 778

So just to follow up, it was supply issues from 1/4 line coming from tank getting bent and reducing flow more.

Replaced with 5/16 and lots of power and doesn't die under prolonged load.

When draining the tank and using the the pump to drain it with afm flap open to send power. Its certainly didnt seem like it was flowing super fast, as in not much different looking than speed of gravity (maybe even slower). I have verified this brand new pump does 25-35 psi at injector. I dont have anything to reference this kind of thing. Is the pump designed to not flow that much? more psi?

thanks bus daddy

busdaddy

Thanks for following up! Cool

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Lost69Convertible

krisbeetle · Samba Member Joined: September 30, 2005 Posts: 778

Ya, that makes sense. I just remember vw mechanical pumps when cranking engine over seemed to flow alot more than this.... so wanted to verify.

Overall I am a fan of the fuel injection, seems much more fuel efficient and I can see why you guys fight to prevent people from ripping the system out. I have more confidence in doing a longer trip with FI. I would probably just take a spare fuel pump (even though mine is brand new) and some FI rated hose, (as well as the usual points, coil, condenser).

Maltboy!

According to the VW AFC manual:
For the volume test, the pump should push out no less than a liter a minute when free flowing.
For the pressure test, the fuel pressure should be 35-38 PSI with the fuel pump running and the engine off, and between 28-31 PSI with the engine running. The fuel tank should be at least 1/2 full when running the tests. If out of spec, the manual says the pressure regulator must be replaced. Others might have differing opinions on that.

busdaddy

krisbeetle · Samba Member Joined: September 30, 2005 Posts: 778

Is this restrictor for crank case emissions leading to intake stock?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

It is causing excessive crankase pressure, (oil to come from front pulley and valve covers). If it is allowed to vent I dont get a single drop of oil leaking out of engine.

busdaddy

I've never seen that before, does it have a part number on it?, is your car a California model?
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VW_Jimbo

Is that in the breather hose? Never seen one of those.
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Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

krisbeetle · Samba Member Joined: September 30, 2005 Posts: 778

Yes it is in between the hose going from behind oil fill to the rubber intake boot just past AFM.

That makes sense the., I dont know why someone would put that in there.....

MuzzcoVW

Bugeye54487

I have an official fuel injection question. Purchased a 78 super beetle convertible. It has been sitting since 1988. I was wondering what should be replaced and should I pull the engine to work on? Or fire it up and see what happens?

busdaddy

Sweet!

VW_Jimbo

Do the minimum to fire it up. If it fires up, turn it off and start replacing the fuel lines, injectors seals, valve adjust, oil change, fuel filter, air filter and the belt!

You can even fire it up off of starting fluid if needed.

Let’s hear if it starts!
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Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

MuzzcoVW

DON'T even try to fire an F.I. bug thats been sitting that long! Seriously, its not worth the time and especially the risk. All the hoses need to be replaced along with injector seals, oil cooler seals etc. Also the injectors themselves are known to stick if sitting a year...let alone the year i graduated high school. Also depending upon how and where it was stored the condition of the cylinders and rings are in question. I've recently torn down two 1600s and a 1776 that have sat for 5 to 10 years. All were free but the cylinder walls were an absolute mess, cratered from rust from sitting. They may have ran, but would have had massive blowby at minimum. Take your time and do it right. At very least you'll avoid a fire. (don't forget the short hoses on the injectors if you get them freed up)

MuzzcoVW

Not to mention the advice above about the fuel tank and pump. Those stick too

busdaddy

I do like Jim's thoughts on a momentary run, just to listen for a horrible knock, or some other issue that may have been the reason it was parked. Personally I don't like using starting fluid on gasoline engines, too much risk of cracked pistons and broken rings, a tablespoon of gas dispensed from a small squirt bottle into the S boot is a much safer option. If you do it right you can feed it the right amount once it starts and keep it running.
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Bugeye54487

Thanks everyone for advice. I think I will pull the engine out right away and replace all the seals and injectors. Do you think I could get a decent compression test before removing? Would be nice to know that before removing.

busdaddy

That would be a good thing to try, a little light oil (WD-40?) down the holes before the first crank wouldn't hurt either. And hand turn the engine through at least 4 full rotations with the alternator nut first, if a valve is stuck you'll bend it with the starter. Disconnect the plug from the AFM (the aluminum box between the air filter and S boot) before cranking, no need for the fuel pump to try and push some goo into the system.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

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Official Fuel injection questions thread
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