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syncro surf Samba Member
Joined: June 06, 2017 Posts: 189 Location: Maine
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Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2021 5:38 am Post subject: Re: Shopping for syncro - 3 knob questions |
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MsTaboo wrote: |
Yes it's cool to have all the knobs, but really most get by just fine with only a rear locker. |
I would call this an understatement . With all the mods available it is easy to lose sight of how capable a Syncro with a VC and rear locker is off road, especially if you have not driven one yet. It is an impressively capable system. As others have said, It is also a much more capable road car than a decoupled version.
If possible, find a properly functioning VC/rear locker system first and experience what it has to offer. If you find that you want more extreme capabilities - the mods are there. |
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Sodo Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2007 Posts: 9603 Location: Western WA
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Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2021 9:10 am Post subject: Re: Shopping for syncro - 3 knob questions |
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Bleyseng wrote: |
I am cautious driving in awd as my van’s VC blew up at 65k miles causing $5000 in transmission rebuild costs st AA |
As a new owner you are wise to pay attention to the transaxle on your expensive antique.
VCs get destroyed if someone puts a wrong size wheel on the van.
The VC can fail in a locked mode and then the increased load can destroy the transaxle. There could be other offenses like a tow company not knowing it's AWD and towing it on 2 wheels. Or 16yr old kids realizing that a Syncro can almost pop wheelies sidestepping the clutch in granny. And there's bump-starting a Sycnro in granny or reverse - a $,$$$$ error that was/is unknown by the masses. Or trying to use the van like a 4WD truck. A Syncro trans is a 2wd trans 'with a 4WD strap-on'. Its generally tough enough to "move itself around" (not bump-starting etc) if used sensibly.
A lot happened back in the '90s !
Many Syncro owners know this stuff but there are new Syncro owners appearing all the time!
It's a cool vehicle!
==== STUFF SYNCRO OWNERS SHOULD KNOW ============
A Syncro trans should only be rebuilt by a specialist.
Especially at this late date, where there are part-quality issues, and lessons-learned.
If you are getting a "bargain rebuild" - it won't last 20,000 miles and you will destroy valuable parts and a proper rebuild will cost even MORE the next time than if it was done right the first time.
VW transaxles have an intentional 'lifetime limiter' designed into them, six sharp cornered stress risers in the 3rd/4th slider hub. This intentional breaking point was failing a little too "early" and VW had to extend the hub life a little around year 1989.5. VW radiused the sharp corners to extend the life a bit, but they still fail. If you have a 1989.5 transaxle it should a little longer.
See this post, for the dialogue.
The aftermarket 'just about' eliminated the failure point, so it's advisable to have the hub changed to a non-VW hub at about 125,000 miles. Think of it like a timing belt replacement. It's been a well-known problem since the 1990s. It can cost about the same as a timing chain replacement on a Eurovan ($2500).
Provided you don't wait too long and destroy the trans, then it costs much more ($5,000, $8,000 and up). Same as if you wait too long on a timing chain and destroy the engine.
Always remember that you may be destroying a part that's NLA (no longer available) and that some of the aftermarket parts won't last as long at what was destroyed. There is a Syncro-only needle bearing that has recently gone NLA (094 311 373).
Keep your oil clean 'cuz your gonna have to re-use that original bearing in your next rebuild.
And there's the owners manual.
Many owners complied with this, dooming the antiquers (= us ).
And then theres the skid bars, protecting the van from imaginary rocks etc, but unbelievably difficult to remove, and preventing access to the drain plug.
Further doom. Another nail in the coffin.
Some van's skid bars are in PERFECT condition (but their gears are worn out).
Syncro owners should cut away the blockage to the drain plug so maintenence actually "happens".
I don't have a pic of where/how to cut, maybe somebody knows of a pic.
Many Syncro gearboxes have lived a hard life.
Some got new bearings and new hubs in the rebuild, but all the gears were near end-of-life due to the contaminated (factory original) lubricant never replaced. So they won't run to 300,400k.
Here and there some nutty owner didn't buy into the lifetime fluids thing and actually maintained the drivetrain.
Perhaps even flushing out the break-in oil in the first few thousand miles. (....prob not many of those).
Those gearboxes that had oil changes are in a better position to run 300, 400k miles (provided the 3rd/4th hub was replaced before destruction too). _________________
'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb |
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Bleyseng Samba Member
Joined: July 03, 2005 Posts: 4752 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2021 12:00 pm Post subject: Re: Shopping for syncro - 3 knob questions |
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I heard the PO was traveling at 65mph on a hot/warm day on a camping trip loaded when the VC blew up, (locked up). The paperwork (2005) doesn't say what was replaced other than transmission rebuild, new VC and a decoupler installed.
Yes, I have the bars removed so I can service the transmission and front diff right now. Derusting the bars and painting them before reinstalling. Trying to get the rear locker switch and the decoupler switch to work so the lights in the panel go on when engaged, _________________ 70 Ghia Black convert-9/69 build date-stock w/133k 1600 SP-barn find now with a rebuilt tranny and engine
77 Westy 2.0L w/Ljet, Camper Special engine-95hp and with LSD!(sold)
76 Porsche 914 2.1L L20c, 120hp Djet (sold)
87 Syncro Westy Titan Red 2.1L 2 knob 100k miles |
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MsTaboo Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2006 Posts: 4083 Location: East Kootenay, British Columbia
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Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2021 7:16 pm Post subject: Re: Shopping for syncro - 3 knob questions |
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Bleyseng wrote: |
I heard the PO was traveling at 65mph on a hot/warm day on a camping trip loaded when the VC blew up, (locked up). The paperwork (2005) doesn't say what was replaced other than transmission rebuild, new VC and a decoupler installed. |
I would be very curious to know the whole story. Have never heard of a VC that "blew up", or seized all at once. Even if it had, a locked VC wouldn't ruin a transmission all at once.
Aggressive VCs can be exacerbated by hot conditions, and fail, but it seems something else was maybe amiss. (an overly aggressive VC starts to act like a solid shaft)
An aggressive VC gives feedback, you can feel it. I had a Syncro Doka with an aggressive VC, it was stiff turning into parking lots and the steering felt kinda heavy in tight corners, but it drove normal otherwise. There would have been pretty severe feedback in the handling to have destroyed a good transmission.
Were they using mismatched tires?
More likely as suggested the 3/4 slider let go, something that can happen with or without a decoupler. _________________ Currently:
'90 Syncro Westy 3 knob w/Zetec
The information age has morphed into the age of disinformation and willful ignorance. Agnotology!
Help the fight against Truth Decay.
Defend democracy, support Ukraine. |
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Bleyseng Samba Member
Joined: July 03, 2005 Posts: 4752 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2021 8:20 pm Post subject: Re: Shopping for syncro - 3 knob questions |
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Stock tires then but the invoice has a new VC listed as installed along with a decoupler. The PO stated the VC locked up/blew up causing the damage and ruining the trip. _________________ 70 Ghia Black convert-9/69 build date-stock w/133k 1600 SP-barn find now with a rebuilt tranny and engine
77 Westy 2.0L w/Ljet, Camper Special engine-95hp and with LSD!(sold)
76 Porsche 914 2.1L L20c, 120hp Djet (sold)
87 Syncro Westy Titan Red 2.1L 2 knob 100k miles |
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Howesight Samba Member
Joined: July 02, 2008 Posts: 3274 Location: Vancouver, B.C.
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Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2021 8:41 pm Post subject: Re: Shopping for syncro - 3 knob questions |
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I had Darryl Christiansen install a locker in my front diff years ago when he rebuilt it and my transaxle. I also purchased a de-coupler at that time. For a data point, I can comment on my experiences.
With many years behind me now, I think that the front locker was not necessary (knock on wood). It`s nice to have, in case of serious mud or snow, but I have yet to be in a circumstance in which it was absolutely necessary.
The de-coupler, on the other hand, is a great addition. I always imagine the worst case scenario that might occur deep in the boonies and one of those is two flat tires requiring me to use some donor wheel or tire combo that is a different size. The decoupler would let me slowly get out of the woods. Similarly, a front half-shaft or CV failure might benefit from using a decoupler.
My decoupler is set up in an aggressive engagement, so I also leave the decoupler de-coupled unless on a long, straight stretch or on a slippery or gravel or muddy surface. The rear locker is the key to good off-road capability, in my experience. On pavement, when making any tight turns, I need to be de-coupled.
Having said all that, I don`t beat on my rig nor do strenuous off-roading or rock crawling type of manoeuvers, so YMMV. _________________ '86 Syncro Westy SVX |
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pnwkayaker Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2008 Posts: 919 Location: Sammamish, WA
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Posted: Mon Oct 25, 2021 5:47 am Post subject: Re: Shopping for syncro - 3 knob questions |
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This is an anecdote-only, but shows how good is the design of a Syncro is (and a warning of additional parts to carry):
At one NorthWest MogFest (NWMF) 10 yrs ago, a friend and I were playing with my Syncro going over some very steep climbs when we heard a loud bang in the rear and lost all traction (we literally got stuck in the middle of the climb). We didn't have the rear locker enabled, we were just playing with regular VC to see how good it was.
We weren't sure what was going on, so we put the van in neutral and very slowly backtracked the hill till we reached the flat portion to examine the van (using breaks only, we were very careful since a slight deviation could cause the van to flip sideways and roll).
Once at the bottom we were able to determine that the bolts of the rear passenger inner CV had blown-off (they didn't fell, they got essentially cut-off) and the rear passenger axle was loose touching the ground. We still don't know how it happened, our guess was that perhaps one of the bolts had become somewhat loose and the remaining bolts were not able to handle the torque when going uphill (we were using the granny gear in a spirited manner).
Once we determined what was going on, I enabled the rear locker and drove very slowly in "3WD" mode back to the campground (800 feet or so) where we jacked-up the Syncro, removed the broken bolts and installed some new ones (I believe there are 5 bolts in the CV and we found like 10 spare or more among all the Syncro owners in the campground). I still have the same bolts installed in my Syncro. _________________ 87 Syncro Westy EJ25 ("Tardis")
Seattle Meetup at Marymoor (link)
A collection of Simple Useful Mods (SUM) (link) |
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Syncro Jael Samba Member
Joined: December 19, 2013 Posts: 2204 Location: Utah
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Posted: Mon Oct 25, 2021 8:07 am Post subject: Re: Shopping for syncro - 3 knob questions |
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So you want a TRIPLE KNOB SYNCRO? Just do it!
After a few years of "the $yncro learning curve" and a lot of miles off-road and on here are my thoughts.
When I purchased my van it was a non-locker. It was great for all around driving and pretty capable off-road in the snow. My son had a rear locker Syncro and the difference was pretty remarkable. So I headed down the deep rabbit hole to convert mine over to a triple knob. I purchased a front locker and decoupler from Daryl at AA. He also suggested a new Sport VC. I also had the transaxle converted to a rear locker. Then I had to get all the vacuum components, dash mount and switches, then run all of the hoses. It was very expensive even back in the day. The wiring was simple because it was already installed in the van.
With a Sport VC I needed a decoupler. After highway driving with the decoupler engaged, the VC was hot enough that the tires would scrub when turning in parking lots and making sharp turns. A simple press of a knob would make all of that go away.
Off road in mud, snow, sand, or loose trails, having good tires and the Syncro AWD with a Sport VC made for a great vehicle. Multiple times I would be amazed at just how capable these vehicles are.
If I got on a trail where the van would lift a tire, that is when the rear locker shined. Now instead of spinning one front and one rear the back end of the van would push through about anything. When the trail looked really loose or steep I would lock the front end. Other than a little lag from the Sport VC I now had a true 4x4 with power to all 4 wheels all the time. Unless the conditions were slick or loose enough the front locker made it extremely difficult to turn the van at all.
I loved the Triple Knob Syncro. The only drawback was not having very low reduction gearing. This would limit you to where you could go. With the limited articulation it was also difficult to go on many trails where I wanted to go. Yes, you could bounce up rock ledges but many times it would get you in trouble trying to keep a line. If it only had reduction gearing, I would still own the van today.
So if you are shopping for a Syncro with (3)three knobs, find one that has already been converted or one from over the pond. Many European vans have a front and rear locker but the decoupler will be an add. Today I am sure it would cost upwards of $10k to convert one if you can locate the parts.
Here is a clip showing the very small lag in my Sport VC. I have never driven a solid shaft, but I am told they are a little more capable in sand. You have to really look to see the rear spin before the front grabs. It is miniscule.
Link
Another clip showing mud and snow. At 3:26 you can see the van stuck in snow.
Link
And some winter highway driving.
Link
Along with a high mountain pass in Colorado. This one I needed more clearance and horsepower.
_________________ 1987 Syncro Westfalia Hightop - NAHT
Subaru EJ25 Forged Frankenmotor, Triple Knob.
Jael = (Mountain Goat) |
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Klister Samba Member
Joined: March 06, 2018 Posts: 189 Location: Washington
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Posted: Mon Oct 25, 2021 9:51 pm Post subject: Re: Shopping for syncro - 3 knob questions |
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Nice rig!
Unfortunately all the triple knobs for sale I've come across have a solid shaft - no VC.
So, given the choices I'd prefer a normal VC with a rear locker --- if I can find it |
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Klister Samba Member
Joined: March 06, 2018 Posts: 189 Location: Washington
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Posted: Tue Oct 26, 2021 10:45 pm Post subject: Re: Shopping for syncro - 3 knob questions |
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Klister wrote: |
Yes you have a option of having it in Rear wheel drive and 4 wheel drive with a pull of a switch. The factory canadain Us models came with a Viscous coupler which was basically AWD but put excess wear on your drive train and way less fuel mileage cause you're always spinning your front and rear wheels. It also was prone to failing.
This setup (solid shaft w/ front and real lockers). always you to just run in rear drive but then allows for 4X4 with also the options of your front and rear diff locking. It’s a much better setup offering less wear and tear and far better fuel mileage on top of the more select ability and reliability. |
Well, different opinions from some folks. Looking at a solid shaft van that looks pretty solid. if you don't lock out the front or back diff but use the 4x4 option (solid shaft decoupler) isn't that better than the AWD of the VC system?
Thanks. |
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vik Samba Member
Joined: January 13, 2005 Posts: 204 Location: back in Czech
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Posted: Wed Oct 27, 2021 4:11 am Post subject: Re: Shopping for syncro - 3 knob questions |
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Maybe another point of view.
I find easier and cheaper to get new VC than front diff with locker.
It took me maybe 2 years to find reasonably priced front locker equipped front diff and it had different R&P.
On decoupler - I do prefer to drive out of town in AWD mode.
But parking - 2WD. You can feel/hear the drivetrain to be ¨tense¨. _________________ T3 Syncro camper in progress |
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Syncro Jael Samba Member
Joined: December 19, 2013 Posts: 2204 Location: Utah
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Posted: Wed Oct 27, 2021 6:58 am Post subject: Re: Shopping for syncro - 3 knob questions |
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Klister wrote: |
Klister wrote: |
Yes you have a option of having it in Rear wheel drive and 4 wheel drive with a pull of a switch. The factory Canadian Us models came with a Viscous coupler which was basically AWD but put excess wear on your drive train and way less fuel mileage cause you're always spinning your front and rear wheels. It also was prone to failing.
[i]This setup (solid shaft w/ front and real lockers). always you to just run in rear drive but then allows for 4X4 with also the options of your front and rear diff locking. It’s a much better setup offering less wear and tear and far better fuel mileage on top of the more select ability and reliability. [/i] |
On a Vanagon Syncro the front diff and axles are always spinning as you drive down the road. This engineering does not have hubs to unlock the axles from the wheels. You have the option of pushing the tires and spinning the front diff, uncoupled. Or using the front diff to help pull the van, coupled. We won't get into tire slipping. As far as fuel mileage I have never noticed a difference out on the highway coupled or decoupled. But the van is more stable in cross winds when coupled.
Well, different opinions from some folks. Looking at a solid shaft van that looks pretty solid. if you don't lock out the front or back diff but use the 4x4 option (solid shaft decoupler) isn't that better than the AWD of the VC system?
Think of driving down the canyon on a winding road on patches of ice and snow. The VC system will allow the front end to rotate at a different speed than the rear when going around sharp turns. Depending on how aggressive the VC is. With a solid shaft they are locked together either a front tire or rear tire needs to slip because of the different radius being turned. This means you are creating a slippage. AWD keeps the tires from slipping yet lets you have traction to all four tires.
I am sure others will chime in with their thoughts. This is just from my experience with a Syncro. |
_________________ 1987 Syncro Westfalia Hightop - NAHT
Subaru EJ25 Forged Frankenmotor, Triple Knob.
Jael = (Mountain Goat) |
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syncro surf Samba Member
Joined: June 06, 2017 Posts: 189 Location: Maine
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Posted: Wed Oct 27, 2021 2:05 pm Post subject: Re: Shopping for syncro - 3 knob questions |
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Klister wrote: |
if you don't lock out the front or back diff but use the 4x4 option (solid shaft decoupler) isn't that better than the AWD of the VC system?
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As has been said, if you are driving in soft sand or trying to climb a 45 degree mountain maybe yes. If you are driving around on the public roads like most of us - it would be worse and possibly dangerous.
I don't know if this is the case here, but advice from somebody trying to sell you something needs to be considered carefully. Again - that stuff about a properly functioning VC putting undue stress on the drive train and creating bad gas mileage is simply not true |
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Klister Samba Member
Joined: March 06, 2018 Posts: 189 Location: Washington
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Posted: Wed Oct 27, 2021 9:56 pm Post subject: Re: Shopping for syncro - 3 knob questions |
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syncro surf wrote: |
Klister wrote: |
if you don't lock out the front or back diff but use the 4x4 option (solid shaft decoupler) isn't that better than the AWD of the VC system?
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As has been said, if you are driving in soft sand or trying to climb a 45 degree mountain maybe yes. If you are driving around on the public roads like most of us - it would be worse and possibly dangerous.
I don't know if this is the case here, but advice from somebody trying to sell you something needs to be considered carefully. Again - that stuff about a properly functioning VC putting undue stress on the drive train and creating bad gas mileage is simply not true |
Seems to be the general consensus - thanks |
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