Confusing Ignition shorting

[mykidsbug]

So, 5mo ago I got an ignition switch from WW. It worked just fine. during that time, i switch from a 1600 to 1776. I got my Bug back from the shop 6week ago. during that time i turned the bug on 4 times but on the 4th time, i moved the Bug from the garage to the front of my house. Later that evening i went to turn it on, nothing. I turned the switch about 6 times and nothing. not a click or anything. so i decided to wait until morning. the next day it cut on and i returned it to the garage. When i turned it off, i waited to turn it on again, nothing again. i called the mechanic and he stopped by and looked at it, he said its the ignition switch. He did a bypass and it started then said, yeah, its the switch. I returned the switch to WW, they were great!! No hard questions, they switched it out and sent a new one. The switch was replaced... Every 3rd day i turned on the Bug. On last friday, it happened again. i went to turn it on and nothing.
I haven't tried since in case it something I'm doing wrong. im waiting on my mechanic. What could be the problem? It's shorting out or what? Any ideas? [/i]

[scarabee]

Apply voltage directly to the spade terminal on your starter solenoid. If the starter swings, there is a potential problem in the circuit from the switch to the starter. Another possibility is that the starter brushes might be short/sticking and the problem could be intermittent.

Because the VW ignition switch is far from the starter, I like to use a relay close to the starter. Somebody here suggested putting the relay under the rear seat, for protection from the elements. The switch operates the relay and the relay, in turn, operates the solenoid. This makes for a longer ignition switch life.

[mukluk]

Since it sounds like absolutely nothing happens when you switch it on, no warning lights or anything ("I turned the switch about 6 times and nothing. not a click or anything."), you may have a loose connection or degraded wire running between the fuse block and the ignition switch at terminal 30.
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1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"

[Cusser]

Make sure that your reverse light wiring - if you have that - is NOT attached to the negative terminal of the coil.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[mykidsbug]

[mykidsbug]

[quote="Cusser"]Make sure that your reverse light wiring - if you have that - is NOT attached to the negative terminal of the coil.[/quote

No reverse lights.. ]

[mykidsbug]

I had 35 honey-do’s, no time to check on the bug..

[Cusser]

[mykidsbug]

So, I got a chance to turn on the bug, guess what?
It turned on every time My mechanic stopped by to see why it wasn’t starting. But like I said, every time. The only thing he said is maybe I need to sand / clean my post for a better connection. I know I need a newer fuse box.
For now, it’s starting I’ll let you know next week if it’s still working…

Next project, YouTube Chris Vallon for new style fuse box… With my luck, the bug will stop working somehow…
Thanks For Your Help…

[Cusser]

2 months ago, with my 1988 Mazda truck, I'd return after a week and the engine would not crank, so wouldn't start, when I turned the key. Then sometimes it would start, and then continue to start.

I had 2 months remaining on a free 3-year battery replacement from Walmart (Johnson Controls batteries like Interstate, Autozone, O'Reilly, Costco) so I swapped in a brand-new battery. No difference.

Mazda trucks of that era are known to have electrical part of ignition switch go bad (I replaced mine about 1995) so I tested that, and EVERY time I turned the key, I'd get 12 volts at the small terminal on the starter solenoid.

Next, I took off ALL the battery cable connections and cleaned them with steel wool, including ALL the ground connections of the negative cable.

So since then: no failures to crank the engine/start. So this stuff can be tricky !!!
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[ashman40]

Grab a VM and test the voltage at the #30 terminal of the ignition switch while you have someone crank the engine. Then test the voltage on the #50 terminal of the ignition switch. The voltage readings should be the same.
Go to the #50 wire junction below the left rear seat. This is the junction just before the wires exits at the rear of the center tunnel. Test the #50 wire voltage here. It should be very close to the measurement you took at the ignition switch. If you lost more than 0.5v it means excessive resistance in the wires, connections, junctions. Clean your connections to improve the voltage reading.
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AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[mykidsbug]

[mykidsbug]

Saturday i turned the bug on, No problem. Sunday when i turned it on, the starter made a winding sound as if the battery was dying.. I tried it again, and no sound and no start. the lights were on, it just didn't start.

So, I got the VM. I wanted to test the battery first.
The Battery was 12.47

With the key in the on position:
The 15/50 post was 12.47
The 30 post was "0" and just continuity.
The 50 post was "0" and just continuity.

When engaged on the ignition switch, just continuity. I thought the voltage would go up to 12.47, but no.

Thoughts?

[ashman40]