Dougs 56 build

[VW_Jimbo]

Hey Doug! I cannot tell from your pictures but do you have a sand seal crank pulley? I cannot see any grooves on the snout. Might be something you know or might be something to look at before firing it up.
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Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[Volksvr6gti]

hey Jimbo I wasn't even sure was a sand seal pulley was so I looked it up and I do not believe that is what I have. They pulley that I have is a standard scat pulley. here is a picture from their website that looks exactly like mine. The center hole of my pulley that the actual crank shaft touches is smooth (Green arrow and text). However, if I turn the pulley over to the backside the outer circumference there is a thin spiral groove (Red arrow and text) this is a picture from scats website and looks just like mine. I labeled it to help explain the above.

Also I emailed scat today as the previous owner had provided me with some basic paperwork on the motor. The paper states that SCAT sets the valves on all 0000-mile long blocks to .002 lash before shipping. On the next page it states if I have steel push rods to set the lash to .001 - .002 COLD OR if I have aluminum push rods to set it to .004 - .006 COLD. I wanted to clarify this with them as I had set the valves to .006. Eddie at SCAT did confirm for me to set the valves and keep them at .002, so I went back and set them all to .002

I also pickled up some spark plugs today. I ended up getting some NGK BR6ES plugs. Eddie had stated that all SCAT engines come with Denso DN-X20EP-U9, which no one locally had. hopefully these will be just fine. Also gapped them to stock recommendation of .028.

Last thing I need to try to clarify is if I should be running the spark plugs with the terminal nuts on or if they should be removed like the stock 36 hp engine. my current setup has pertronix 8mm wires and they have fittings that seem to work with the terminal nuts ON. the previous plugs also had them on...so for now I guess I will keep them on. I tried to look on pertronix website but it doesn't clarify.

[VW_Jimbo]

Yep! Spiral is a stock feature to return the oil back into the case, in lieu of a seal!

Glad you were able to figure it out!
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Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[Buggeee]

The engine looks beautiful. How satisfying.
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1966 Sportsmobile Camper https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0
72 Super Duper http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=672387
(adopted out) 61 Turkis Pile https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728764

[Clatter]

Really enjoying watching your build here, thanks again for taking the time to share.

As you move forward with the motor and trans, here's a few bits i might add, take it FWIW.
Traffic today is a lot different than it was in Germany in the 1950s.
Everyone drives around now like they have a firecracker up their ass.

Depending upon how you plan on using the car and where you are driving it,
you might find a mildly warmed-over 1776 and 'freeway flyer' trans much more practical and safe.
Safe because you can at least keep up, and not have everyone coming around you while you're clogging up the right lane.
An early beetle doesn't have seatbelts, or maybe more importantly headrests or a collapsible steering column.
Many just choose to drive their old cars on surface streets.
Even with a lot of modernization, driving my Oval in heavy CA highway traffic still feels more like riding a motorcycle than driving a modern car.
But it is a lot of fun..

VW made a lot of improvements to their mechanicals over the years as traffic sped up and demands increased.

Because you have them, I'd stab the late gearbox and motor and rally those.
Will give you time to source the parts to do your OG driveline correctly.
Will also give you a chance to see if you like driving a slow car in the new fast world.

As for the ring n' pinion, those are a matched set.
You'll have to buy them as a set to ensure quiet running.
Not sure about the early trans, as i have no experience with those,
Setting up the r/p in a later trans is the hardest part of the build.
The depth of the pinion, as well as the preload of the diff bearings, along with back-lash, all work in harmony to keep the trans quiet.
Have had rebuilt transaxles with this wrong, and the howling or singing on the freeway tends to get old.
So take your time and make sure to get this stuff right.

"freeway flier" is a marketing term, and can mean any number of things, typically, it's a regular 3.80 1st gear and 4.12 R/P with a taller .082 4th.
Other times the regular 'Super Beetle' later trans with 3.88 R/P and 3.78 1st.
Sometimes they also put in the taller 4th.
Depending upon what's actually in there, it may or may not be OK to run with your 36'er, at least around town.

Can't remember if you showed your 36-horser, but there can be many details to getting one of those correct.
A lot of times several parts have been changed or replaced over the years.
Parts can be harder to source, and doing one correctly can be a labor of love, depending upon how right you want it.


I'd run the later motor/trans together,
And then take your time to do a nice early motor/trans and put them in at the same time.

It would be nice to be running around with the late setup,
And take your time to get the early drivetrain done and and 100% correct OG.

It's fairly easy to swap the full motor/trans once they're sussed and you're in practice.
Do it all the time..
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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Volksvr6gti]

clatter,

that is a good recommendation and most likely what I will do for the time being. with the stock trans R&P being garbage and trying to source a correct one thats not 1000$ ... which has proven to be difficult. I will prob just run the 1776 and the flyer trans. I will eventually rebuild the the trans and original motor. I may just do that and keep them as kind of a show piece in the garage. and if it ever comes down to selling the oval I will include the original motor and trans as well.
the flyer trans has a 3.88 r&p; however, I am unsure about the 4th gear.

[Clatter]

How's this one coming along?

Hopefully the body shop didn't push your car in the back corner of the shop,
Take your money, lose your small parts, make excuses, and do no work.
More often than not, this is how it ends up...

I ended up having to tool up and learn body and paint on my own here at home.
My neighbors love it!
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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Volksvr6gti]

Hey thanks for reaching out. The shop is still working on the bug. They had it sitting for a little while as they had a few cars ahead of mine. They have all my pieces blasted and in epoxy. They shell was just finished up a few weeks ago. They have a few minor things to correct and then blocking it and paint should be shortly after. Little slower than I wanted, however, i was ok with it as I have been doing a lot of home repairs due to a tornado this past year. Here’s a few piks to look at

[VW_Jimbo]

Looks sooo velvety!

Good to see an update!
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Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[lardawge]

Checking in on progress… been almost a year since the last update. How’s things coming along?
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11/2/54 L227 Strato Silver Ragtop - Soon to be L41 Black - Build Thread
1/7/55 L275 Light Beige

[Volksvr6gti]

Hey thanks for checking in. It’s actually going well. I had to move it from one shop to another. The new shop took it on this past November and they almost have it done. I supplied them with RM Diamont paint last week as well as Diamont DC5300 clear. Hopefully be shooting all panels next week.

[lardawge]

Good to hear. It takes a lot to get a car through the bodywork/paint process. Finding the right place that will see it through is difficult. Sounds like you are on the right track!
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11/2/54 L227 Strato Silver Ragtop - Soon to be L41 Black - Build Thread
1/7/55 L275 Light Beige

[VW_Jimbo]

Great to read an update! Hoping this time it is in good hands!
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Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[Clatter]

Sorry if i jinxed you!

Hopefully try #2 works out better.

I'm 0-3 with body shops... I think because I'm not very intimidating looking.
If you're also a fairly small guy, maybe take a big hairy biker friend or two along??

That, or maybe a cop.
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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Volksvr6gti]

Ok, well I figure it is time to provide an update with some photos of progress to keep this thread alive. As those of you who had been following, I would not want to completely lose your interest. So quick recap, about 2 years ago I sent the shell off for some minor body work and to be painted at what we shall refer to as shop #1. Long story short is that shop #1 failed on a lot of promises. I had asked them what the deal was and basically, they just simply do not have the manpower at the shop to be able to complete this project. I had even offered for them to reevaluate their bid and maybe we could come to a price agreement to put my car front of the shop and main priority and therefore make both parties happy…. But they stated they simply cannot as they would be able to afford the shop dues. In the end they are only good for short term quick turn-around projects and I was looking for someone to take their time and do solid work. Thus, I was forced to source out a second shop.

During this period, I was able to have a few things worked on and therefore, getting myself closer to wrapping this project up. One of the things I was able to have completed was the original 56 transaxle. I drove it up to Jim at Shift Happens in Georgia and at first, he was a little reluctant to take this one on as I had already disassembled it. He would have much preferred that it was left alone and for himself to perform the original teardown… but in the end he took the project on and I am thankful. He was great to work with. So if you all recall, the issue with the transaxle was that a tooth had snapped on the pinion shaft. Jim was able to source me a new ring and pinion as the one I had provided was actually from an earlier split case than mine and would not work. In the end these were the results:

I also decided that I was going to run stock disc brakes and had Jim overhaul the rears while he had the transaxle on hand.

Before:

After:

I also had went back to shop #1 as I had $1500.00 that they cashed and then never performed any of the agreed work. I knew this money was long gone, so it was pointless for me to ask for a refund… we all know how that works out. Therefore, I decided to take another approach which has been working well. I told them I was aware that $1500 was still on the table and instead of me trying to take it back, how about we work out a deal for some small parts. I told them I wanted my 5 rims painted and a bunch of misc. parts to be powdered. They agreed. The first Item they worked were the rims. I wanted the inner barrels painted a satin black to assist with brake dust staining. I then had the inner face painted Silver Beige L466, and I had the outer dish painted 1956-1968 Jaguar – Sherwood Green – Q1231 – in Glasurit 55 Line. Here are the results:

They are now working on powder for my seat frames, springs, shifter, steering column, and a few other items. Overall, its working out and shop #1 is able to tackle these small jobs fairly well.

Next, I found a newer shop that is across town that is attempting to make a name for themselves. They specialize in classic Mercedes. In the beginning they had no interest in painting a beetle and told me no. A few days later they call me back and asked what year the beetle was, and I informed them a 56. This sparked interest as they knew it could fit the profile for a classic. They came and took a look at it and decided to take it on around November 2022. Since then, they have been trucking on. It has taken longer than they had anticipated, but as long as there was steady forward progress, I remained content. They have been great.

They started out working the fender areas and pulling the wheel-well dents out as they created gaps between the body and fenders:

Next, they worked the doors to pull and hammer lows and highs. Drivers’ door also required some patch work on the underside as it had some rust through.

After this they applied some seam sealer to assist with future rust prevention in the seams:

After this they worked the fenders and welded in the front bullet marker light bases, worked on the front bonnet and the rear deck lid removing dents and smoothing out some imperfections:

Once these were initially worked, I had provided them with my gas tank, to weld the fuel sender gauge hole shut and the other hole that was for the fuel line on the original gas heater that was installed.

I also provided the shop with the paint and clear of my choice. I decided to use the RM Diamont line. The color is diamond green took 4 days for BASF to finally get us a code, which they referenced from their Glasurit line. I also went with RM Glamour Clear.
Here it is for anyone in the future to help save yourself the headache.

After the initial 2k on the fenders the shop decided that the metal needed some additional work. They stripped them down and re-worked them applied some filler and did their best at only leaving a skim coat of filler to use the least amount. After this they were shot again in 2k and were far smoother than original.

They ended up doing the same with both the engine cover and front bonnet.

The shell itself needed some minor body work which was done, all the undercoating that the previous owner applied was removed to the best of their ability. They blew out all the debris stuck in the channels of the body. Lastly, they 2k all the small parts and redrilled the body trim holes that were filled by the previous owner:

Today I checked in on them and they are wet sanding some of the 2k to remove any imperfection prior to shooting paint which they plan to do today, this weekend and Monday. Sorry so long winded, but an update with photos was much needed. Will post photos once painted.

[lardawge]

Awesome update! Looks like things are moving along with body and paint. I am looking forward to the day my 54 gets out of that stage so I can assemble. It’s close to done with metal work then off to body paint.

Looks good!
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11/2/54 L227 Strato Silver Ragtop - Soon to be L41 Black - Build Thread
1/7/55 L275 Light Beige

[tehillah1]

Great pics of the craftsman at work and the results coming along for your project. Clearly a lot of attention to the details and the fact they went back to correct things they weren't satisfied with is a sign of quality craft. Thanks for the update.

[Clatter]

Wow! some turn-around..!

So.....
Paint pics?
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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Volksvr6gti]

Yep I finally have some paint piks I actually just received them last night from Bishop Motors. The weather here the last week was just up and down wet - cold - hot - humid. So we held off until the weather stabilized and this was the week. So far the doors and most panels have been shot and cleared. They have a few more small things to shoot and then it will be time to shoot the body itself. We should be wrapped up in the next couple of days I also made contact with the other shop who is powder coating the seats and other misc parts and hopefully they will be done this Friday.

Color shot before clear:

After clear:

All in all the color looks amazing. I will need to run up there to get a physical eye on it, but so far from the piks it looks good enough to me. I do plan to drive this bug and use it quite often. Therefore, I am hoping for no imperfections, however, if there are a couple here or there, I won’t be too worried. More piks to come when I receive them

[Volksvr6gti]

Below are a few more piks that the painter sent me today of the panels. Our weather has been perfect and consistent this past week and this upcoming week. Hopefully we will have it all wrapped up in a couple days