Satellite Guy's build page

[JWHracing]

You can run stock spring plates with coilovers. Just remove the torsion bars and run good bushings and caps. I am still running double shear spring plates with no bars without issue. most of the spring plate eliminators are cheap cap with crap heims. hope you got a double shear set or at least ones that have a large piece of tubing on the back side that slips into the torsion housing. i have seen way too many of the cheap ones break hence why i will not rely on them.

be prepared, you may have to cut a large section out of the tunnel where your gas pedal and foot needs to go. i have never seen an aftermarket pedal set up with dual masters really fit well without taking at least half the tunnel out next to your gas pedal/foot, especially if you plan on wearing those boots you have on while driving
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65 Baja - Class 5 Unlimited Race Car

2021 STORR Pro Air Cooled Buggy Champion
2019 AZOP Unlimited Buggy Champion
2017 SADR 1300 Class Champion
2016 AZOP Limited Buggy Champion

Currently "retired" from racing

[thesatelliteguy]

I through I remembered reading that you can use the stock spring plates. Ohh well.
What did you do about the stops for the spring plates?

I think the ones I ordered look pretty stout. They are double sheer with a USA made heim.

I was just getting to the part of the pedal install where I was starting to consider the throttle pedal and how to do it. I was coming to the conclusion that I’ll have to cut out at least half the tunnel.
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Toyotas are so bumpy it makes me sick, literally.

My build Page http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=383878

[JWHracing]

my stops are basically non existent now. the ends are cut right behind the furthest back bolts and the section that is the "stop" has been clearanced a bit with a flap wheel. I use limit straps for my droop stop.
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65 Baja - Class 5 Unlimited Race Car

2021 STORR Pro Air Cooled Buggy Champion
2019 AZOP Unlimited Buggy Champion
2017 SADR 1300 Class Champion
2016 AZOP Limited Buggy Champion

Currently "retired" from racing

[Bad_chopper]

Those look stout, I was going to suggest the double shear.
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my build page http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=536267

[dustymojave]

I suggest that you use high shear bolts. But I'm not aware of what's available for metric. For inch sizes there are NAS bolts. But they're in inch threads and fine thread. The thread is only long enough for what it's threaded into. The shank is smooth.

So maybe google metric high shear bolts.
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Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[-Al-]

[thesatelliteguy]

I’ve had to take a little break from the project. I’m ready to get back into it now tho. I think my next move is to order some axles for the 3x3 trailing arms. I think rather then ordering some customs length axles for the type 4 cv joints I have. I think I’ll just bite the bullet and convert to 930’s.
I see an Empi kit from Mooreparts.com for my application, but piecing it together and getting the goods from kartek is just a little more expensive, but the cv’s, axles and trans flanges are American made.
Once that’s ordered, I’ll finish up the steering shaft.
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Toyotas are so bumpy it makes me sick, literally.

My build Page http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=383878

[thesatelliteguy]

I finished up the steering shaft last weekend. I now have turning front wheels!! One Step Closer!!!

About a week ago I decided to bite to bullet and go with 930’s. So I ordered the goods from Kartek. It was a little bit more expensive then Moore Parts Empi kit, but I’m confident I made the right choice. This package showed up last Thursday!

I also got the master and slave cylinder for the clutch. Those two got put in yesterday, tho not plumed up yet. Some 3/16” stainless steel tubing is on the way for that plus the brakes.

And with the third and final master cylinder on the pedal assembly, I decided to find a place for my master cylinder reservoirs.
My master cylinder sizes are .75” for the clutch. .75” for the front drum brakes, and .875” for the rear Jamar 4 piston calipers. And a bias adjuster knob. Just for reference if someone is looking for that info.

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Toyotas are so bumpy it makes me sick, literally.

My build Page http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=383878

[72BajaBen]

Any updates. This is a sweet build.
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Semper Fidelis

Build thread - https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9762332

[thesatelliteguy]

Well it seems i touch basis with the forums about once a year. So here it is.
I ran out of money for the project. Got some extra work and saved up enough cash to probably finish building the bug but decided to invest that money into a CNC plasma cutting table and the required items for powder coating. While I don't regret spending the money on that stuff (better to spend on an investment than a liability), it put the bug on hold.
But now i have a pretty cool tool to finish up building the bug, and i can powder coat stuff.
My friend dropped off his Polaris RZR pro x at my house to have me install a bunch of lights and electrical components. Working on his project made me miss my project. I got his buggy out of my garage and got back into the baja.
-On a side note, those RZR are bad ass, but the build quality on them is kind of crap. The engineers made it so the front seats disconnect really easily, no tools required, just pull a lever and out it comes. Great! But bc the 4 point seat belts pass through the opening in the seats, you need a handful of tools to disconnect the seat belt ends and pass them through the seat to be able to fully remove the seat. Which would be helpful if you run the very small battery out of juice and need to jump start it.
ok, end of rant.

So my baja needs rear shocks/coilovers to proceed forwards.
I don't have upper shock mount locations yet and I don't have the lower shock mounts on the trailing arm.

I know how to find the location for the upper mounts. Put trailing arm in full compression, come off it 90*, measure collapsed shock eye to eye, take that measurement and measure off the trailing arm on that perpendicular line and that is where the top mount will be. But because I don't know what length shock I'm going to use, i can't measure off the trailing arm, and figure out where on the perpendicular line the upper mount will be.

So what do I do? Assume im going to use a 14" shock. Find a 14" shock that i am willing to buy and find its eye to eye measurement. Then plug that measurement into my above calculation to find the upper shock mount location. Then that will give me the ability to find my motion ratio, which is required for AccuTune Offroad to to tune my new shocks/coilovers.
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Toyotas are so bumpy it makes me sick, literally.

My build Page http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=383878

[72BajaBen]

IMO…commit to a specific shock. If you know your going C/O just decide on a brand and length and commit. Plus shock tabs aren’t the end of the world to re-locate. But I think 14” is plenty.
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Semper Fidelis

Build thread - https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9762332

[JWHracing]

14" is common with 3x3s on a baja. Typically paired with a 16" bypass. A 14" Fox 2.0 is 35.1" extended and 21.1" collapsed, eye to eye. You can find specs for all the various Fox shocks on Kartek's site. The same specs can be found on Accutune as well.

Ideally, you need to have the cv's, brakes, and wheels and tires on the car that way you make sure you aren't losing travel due to cv bind and also making sure that when the car is bottomed out, the motor isn't touching the ground. 4" under the skid plate is the recommended minimum.
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65 Baja - Class 5 Unlimited Race Car

2021 STORR Pro Air Cooled Buggy Champion
2019 AZOP Unlimited Buggy Champion
2017 SADR 1300 Class Champion
2016 AZOP Limited Buggy Champion

Currently "retired" from racing

[thesatelliteguy]

I cant afford bypass shocks at this time. Maybe in the future, but im not sure im ever going to run it hard enough to justify the price tag.

Based on that info, would you suggest I get the fox 14" with the 2.5" body or stick with the 2" body?
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Toyotas are so bumpy it makes me sick, literally.

My build Page http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=383878

[JWHracing]

I would suggest the biggest shock you can afford. Keep in mind, a 2.5's springs cost about $31 more for each spring than a 2.0. The 2.5 may require more trimming to fit inside the body due to the increased diameter of the coil springs.

Either way you decide to go, external or piggy back reservoirs at a minimum, not an emulsion coilover.

Keep in mind, most shocks are 9-12 months back order. You may have better luck finding a set of used shocks, and valving/springing them to your liking.
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65 Baja - Class 5 Unlimited Race Car

2021 STORR Pro Air Cooled Buggy Champion
2019 AZOP Unlimited Buggy Champion
2017 SADR 1300 Class Champion
2016 AZOP Limited Buggy Champion

Currently "retired" from racing

[ORANGECRUSHer]

I totally understand this dilemma. I finally have my woodsbuggy on the road but I'm severely disappointed in the performance of my airbag setup; I need to go coilover. Problem is I can't justify spending a grand on two shocks atm. Plus, if I did I'm not sure how I'd get all the details worked out to figure out what to order. I already have mounts, I guess it's more just getting an accurate weight measurement somehow.

I feel like C/O's would bring it to the next level, I just wish it didn't have to cost so much. lol
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Brian H.
I may not know everything,but I will try to help if I can
OrangeCrushER Berrien Warrior 2.4L Quad4
LAZY MARY 1970 Baja 1835cc

[thesatelliteguy]

Here it is, the beginning of figuring out shock mount locations on my Baja. I’m doing this to figure out how much shock length I’m actually going to need. Also trying to find out my motion ratio, which accutuneOffRoad.com needs in order to tune my shocks for me correctly. I’m choosing to have them do it rather than try to slam it out myself because I know absolutely nothing about Shock tuning and I don’t have any friends close by that do you know about Shock tuning.

Compression is set to 5 inches before skid plates bottom out. Full drop is limited to CV joint binding, then backing it off by 1/2”.

This is giving me 11” of wheel travel. And shown I’m only using 9” of shock.

So am I doing something wrong here? 14” shocks have been recommended to me by several people. I know I could get another inch off my compression side by limiting it to 4 inches before chassis bottoms out. but I would still be using only about 9 3/4 to 10 inches of shock travel.

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Toyotas are so bumpy it makes me sick, literally.

My build Page http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=383878

[JWHracing]

Something is off. You should get at least 12-14" of travel out of 3x3s if not more. My car pulls 15.5" and uses the entire stroke of a 12" bypass shock. A 14" shock at a perfect 1:1 ratio should pull 14".

My suggestion would be to tack weld some tabs on the trailing arm where you think you're mount is going to be. then use tubing or flat or wood or pvc, anything really that you can drill a hole in and put a bolt through. Make 2 pieces, one for the extended length of the shock and one for the compressed length of the shock. Stick a piece of cardboard or something in side where the upper shock mount is going to go. Put a sharpee or pen in that upper hole of your mock up material and draw an arc with it at full droop. compress the suspension and do the same with the shorter piece of material. those 2 arcs should intersect somewhere. That should be where your upper mount lands.

Refer to this post as well: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=324472&highlight=upper+shock+mounts
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65 Baja - Class 5 Unlimited Race Car

2021 STORR Pro Air Cooled Buggy Champion
2019 AZOP Unlimited Buggy Champion
2017 SADR 1300 Class Champion
2016 AZOP Limited Buggy Champion

Currently "retired" from racing

[thesatelliteguy]

I took a second go at it to figure out why im only getting 11" of travel instead of 12-14 and i think i know why.

I've set compression to stop 5" before chassis bottoms out.

And as you can see, ive lowered the "chassis" another 3" for my frame horn supports and motor mounts. So my above mentioned 5" before chassis bottoms out, its off by 3".

So, crap! Now what do i do?
I was planning to rework the frame horns in a few years when i (hopefully) upgrade to a subaru transmission ($2k+ for the ring and pinion flip kit). I was going to cut them off and replace them with 1.75" tubing, and then rework the roll cage that is in there too.
But I'm not ready to jump into that project right now.

So i guess my options are:
1) Set my compression to stop as it is. Intentionally putting the upper shock mount lower then it should be and just plan to change that when i rework the frame horns. This means ordering longer shocks then what i need.
2) Set my compression to stop at 5" from the actual frame horns (which gives me 2" until the yellow supports bottom out).

I guess i dont plan on driving it so hard that ill be bottoming it out regularly. So maybe option 2?

Whats your take on those numbers? Double check me. Am i adding this up correctly?

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Toyotas are so bumpy it makes me sick, literally.

My build Page http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=383878

[JWHracing]

The bigger concern than the frame horns is where the skid plate under the motor is. I assume your addition is that low to clear the subaru?

My car has frame rails welded directly to the bottom of the frame horns. 2" of clearance isn't much when you factor in tire squish and factor in the possibility that you are in a 2-track rut not necessarily a completely flat surface.

What size tires are you planning to run? Obviously a bigger tire will give more ground clearance. You may lose up travel though if the tire is hitting the body.

My car is designed so that it can actually still roll at full compression. The tires don't come in contact with the body at all.
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65 Baja - Class 5 Unlimited Race Car

2021 STORR Pro Air Cooled Buggy Champion
2019 AZOP Unlimited Buggy Champion
2017 SADR 1300 Class Champion
2016 AZOP Limited Buggy Champion

Currently "retired" from racing

[thesatelliteguy]