Who Runs CB's Street Eliminator Heads? Fun Thread...

[bugguy1967]

It's easy to tell BPs and CBs apart. CBs have a stock-like intake flange. BP had a divot in-between the two ports, so a big gasket would overhang in the center.
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"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[RailBoy]

Dug it up...

I have some info that is new, on my post 2000AD CB Street Eliminators, deals with heat.

I can run with heat on 1/6th of the lever up on heater lever. Which is really no air flow, I get into the 340-355 Degree Temps on the CHT. This is in 40 degree ambient temps.

With no heat, summer or winter, I am around 292-315 degrees on the CHT.

And as mentioned which I guess is in this thread, post 2000's have different metal in them, than before 2000. And this is confirmed via CB. Post 2000 metals can deal with the heat, the lack of "awesome" like OEM fins can cool. So the heads simply can deal with the heat better and number of cycles. Vs. other heads out there. Which I am seeing in everyone's latest post.

By the way, my heater boxes are stroker sized for heat out of my 2180, just that the heads did me in on that angle for heat in winter in Va. Yes, I like to have different heads now being winter, other than that, they perform great! lol..

Also, to make a update and a note from when this thread started, back in 2016. Now days my engine simply is cooling better. This is all the way around from previous observations. I really do think I have a long duration of a break-in time. Not sure if this has happened, but I am putting it down, it is like one of the oil pressure relief valves were sticking. Did, or took a while to work. This was back then. Above are new observation's based, and Dakota Digital CHT Guage. RB
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[quote="smitty24"]"HELP, I ported my own heads and now have fire coming out my ass" .[/quote]