Dieter: My 1970 RHD Beetle

[ashman40]

The only thing left that I can think of... have you loosened the threaded studs any? I know you removed the nuts from the studs but depending how the studs were threaded into the center discs they could be pressing against the springs plates and working to spread the split disc increasing its OD and pressure against the ID of the tube. You should be able to safely removed the stud from the disc or just leave it threaded in a few turns to prevent the disc from sliding left or right. By relieving the tension between the disc and the inner wall of the tube the disc should rotate freely.

If this doesn't work the only think I can suggest is to remove both spindles to remove any pre-tension between the upper and lower torsion springs. This shouldn't be needed.
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[Zacharysayre]

OK I started disassembling the beam.

a. Shocks came off - no change
b. Sway bar came off - no change
c. Tie rods came off - no change
d. Ball joints unbolted - no change
e. Removed the spindles - no change

f. When I loosened the grub screw for the torsion arm I got free movement for the height adjustment. So I loosened all 4 grub screws.

Not sure if the torsion bars we cut short or the grub screw dimple was drill wrong.

Do I need to pull the arms off and elongate the hole for the grub screws?

Or not torque the grub down just torque the locking nut.
_________________
If it ain't steel, it ain't real

[ashman40]

[Zacharysayre]

Ok I took off the center adjuster grub screw. then pulled off the one of the upper arms. Then pulled the other one and the torsion springs out the other side to give me plenty of room to work on the other arm.

Put the arm back in the upper tube. Was able to freely rotate the arm 360 degrees. Nothing was catching or binding.

Put the springs and arm back in and did the other side. Same thing. 360 degrees of free movement.

Then put everything back together. Tried spinning the upper arms with the torsion springs attached to both arms. This set up moved freely as well. So the upper is not causing any problems.


Then I did the lower arms the same way. I started one side and it freely moved until I got it fully seated. The inner torsion bearing(?) caused the arm to be harder to turn.

It will move but I need to use more force to get it to move. So one side on the lower tube has been checked.

Need to check the other side but couldn't. The torsion springs are very tight fitting and was unable to get the arm off of the pack. Will need to install the other arm to help hold the torsion spring pack while removing the other arm.

Will post up once I get the other off and checked. what the rest of the results are.
_________________
If it ain't steel, it ain't real

[AutoMechanic]

Looking good

[ashman40]

Sounds like you are getting somewhere.

The inner bushing which support the inner end of the torsion arms were originally micarta/phenolic and pressed in place. Now a days they have been replaced with nylon, steel or urethane.
https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C24%2D131%2D401%2D313%2DSET
https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC%2D131%2D401%2D313%2DSET
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[Zacharysayre]

Ok for point of reference. my car is right hand drive. So my drivers side is on the right.

The right lower torsion arm does move with some force. But nothing like the force needed for the left side.

As stated in the previous post the lower passenger side (left side) is even harder to move.

Could it be possible that the left inner bearing/bushing have been installed crooked?

I ask since it does turn with lots of force but feels like there are a couple of spots where it hangs up as it spins.


Also, since I'm messing with the front suspension. I noticed that my front disc brake caliper has 2 bleeder valves. Do I need to bleed the brakes from both bleeders? That will be the next project.
_________________
If it ain't steel, it ain't real

[Zacharysayre]

I've been in a holding pattern with this issue.

Contacted the dealer and am waiting for a reply from them.

Going to give them a call again today. Hopefully they will do something to fix the beam.
_________________
If it ain't steel, it ain't real

[Zacharysayre]

Friday I got a call from both the builder and the retailer. They are wanting me to send them the beam back. So it was picked up on Friday.

Then on Saturday a new beam was delivered. Didn't know it was coming.

It is installed and all is well. Just need to torque down everything.

So stoked that it is almost road worthy again.

Just need to get the emission test done.
_________________
If it ain't steel, it ain't real

[Zacharysayre]

Got the car back from the shop Monday before turkey day, they didn't charge me to do the front end alignment since they were shut down so long from covid. So that was nice.

But I have a new issue. They couldn't start the car after they pulled it into the bay to do the alignment. I've been checking everything I could think of.

Checked the battery - full charged and throwing 650 amps during cranking.

Checked every fuse - all good.

Checked the ignition switch - bad. I found a short in the ignition switch. Bare wires on the red and the black wires.

Replaced the switch just now and still nothing. Gen and oil lights are on.

I tried jump starting it from the starter using an insulated screwdriver. Fired right up that way.


Any suggestion on what else to check.
_________________
If it ain't steel, it ain't real

[ashman40]

Sounds like a problem with the #50 starter solenoid circuit. Place a voltmeter on the red/black #50 wire coming out of the bottom of the ignition switch. Is there 12v on this wire each time you turn the key to the START position?
If not, take the switch assembly out of the steering column and test it on the bench. If that doesn't work, take the switch out and check if it closes the contacts between the red #30 wire and the #50 wire when turned all the way. Measure the angle needed to close the starter switch contacts. Reinstall the switch and confirm you can get the same amount of rotation from the switch assembly. Try to determine if it is a switch issue or a lock assembly issue.
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[Zacharysayre]

Everything checked out. 12v on #50

Went to disconnect the battery and noticed that the ground wire for the hard start relay was not grounded. Reattached it to the pan and tried to start it. Fired right up.
_________________
If it ain't steel, it ain't real

[Zacharysayre]

new issue:

I was in a car accident, not the beetle, just got out of the hospital. Car has been sitting for 2 1/2 months. I went to start it and nothing.

Good battery, spark, fuel but it won't fire up. I think it is the fuel pump, new when i rebuilt the engine. Is there a test to see if the fuel pump is good.

Searched and read several threads. Tried there suggestions and still nothing.

Fuel system is all new from the tank to engine. Pulled the fuel line off the pump and fuel flowed very quickly.

Used a vacuum pump to pull fuel through the line and then through the pump up to the carburetor. So there is fuel through out the system. Shot some starter fluid in the carburetor. It started but then died. That's why I think its the fuel pump.
_________________
If it ain't steel, it ain't real

[Zacharysayre]

Friends said to check the plug wires. could be a bad wire. Not the problem.

I decided to pull the valve cover and check the gap and make sure that the valve was not stuck open. All good.

Then set the #1 cylinder to TDC again. Popped the distributor and was checking the rotor direction.

TDC shows the Rotor pointing at about 2:30, checked the firing order of the plugs, they were off by one. Corrected the firing order to the rotor position and now He runs smoothly.

Back on the road, felt great to drive Dieter around town.
_________________
If it ain't steel, it ain't real

[Zacharysayre]

Looking for a local transaxle shop in Phoenix AZ area. Was driving yesterday and I lost 1st and 2nd gear. Put in in 1st gear and nothing then 2nd nothing again, finally tried 3rd gear and was able to get it rolling down the road.

Was a PITA to get it home starting in 3rd gear.
_________________
If it ain't steel, it ain't real