Setting up LiFePo4 - purchase advice on solar/DC-DC/shore power

[weekendr]

[1961tbird]

weekenr

Of course, I will keep an eye out for seats.

Regarding the Victron unit, I was not aware it did not automatically work as a power supply while charging and that those functions were separate. Further research needed! Thanks for tip.

I have heard good things about Progressive Dynamics units. Your thoughts?

[weekendr]

[1961tbird]

Hi weekendr,

I might do a similar arrangement. I like the Renogy dual input charger.

I noticed you decided on a 30 A model. Looking at the article from Renogy, it appears a 50 A model would be more appropriate for a 100Ah Smart Lithium Iron Phosphate battery.

https://www.renogy.com/blog/so-many-dc-to-dc-charg...ur-system/

[weekendr]

[16CVs]

So after 5 years my 2 roof top flexible panels are dead. I need to but 2 more and am looking for input.

What are people running, 12 or 24 volt ?

Going with a quality panel like a Merlin or just an Amazon -$200.00 panel. I’m not opposed to spending money, just looking for real world input.

I just changed my Bogart controller out for a Renogy unit and added a Renogy charger that gives me the ability to monitor my Solar on my phone.

Right now with 2 panels in the direct Sun I am pulling zero Watts. It does show 16.5 volts, but any load and it goes to zero.

If you have a favorite flexible panel and know where you bought it from that would be great.

Stacy
_________________
1987 Syncro Westfalia Triple knob (bastard)
1989 Syncro Tristar Triple knob "Swedish"
2013 Jetta Hybrid a true "Zwitter"
Samba member # 14980
Call anytime number 650 722 4914 .
Keep Your van running and upkept tastefully for the love of the hobby.
Don't let your van end up in an "abortions" thread.

[kourt]

I just replaced my 240 watts of King Solar flexible panels. I bought them in 2016 and they lasted five years on the roof of my van. That is not a great lifespan for a $500 cost.

I replaced the flexible panels with two Renogy 100 watt panels. I made a frame for them out of 1" aluminum square tubing. They are perfect for my application--low profile, quiet, powerful, and long lasting.

It sounds like you're planning to buy more flexible panels. I'm just giving my experience with flexibles and how they were not a good value over time.

One more thing: don't refer to solar panels in terms of 12v, 24v, 48v, as those are nonexistent categories. Panels have max rated voltages and they don't conform to these commonly misquoted base-12 categories. Below is a video on that subject.

I'd love to see what you decide to buy, even if it's flexible. I badly want the flexible panel idea to work, but for me they lack the durability to make them a good value. If you find one you like, share it--I'd like to see it.

kourt


Link

[16CVs]

That Youtube video was really good, thanks. I think that most panels that are on a roof of a van probably have about a 5 year life span.

My van goes off road and I am hesitant to add anything too tall to the roof. I am curious to see your final install pics.

I am hung up on Spending over $500.00 per VS -$200.00 will they both die an early death?

I wish I had the spec sheets on the panels I put on 5 years ago, so I have a starting point.

Stacy
_________________
1987 Syncro Westfalia Triple knob (bastard)
1989 Syncro Tristar Triple knob "Swedish"
2013 Jetta Hybrid a true "Zwitter"
Samba member # 14980
Call anytime number 650 722 4914 .
Keep Your van running and upkept tastefully for the love of the hobby.
Don't let your van end up in an "abortions" thread.

[kourt]

It's a slow Sunday, so I took some pics. I also go off road quite a bit--lots of forest service roads and unimproved roads.

The solid panel I originally bought for the van in 2014 (also a Renogy 100 watt panel) is still going strong on a friend's van. That's why I went back to these solid panels--they last so much longer.

Also, their rigidity makes it easier to design a good mounting system for them that is quiet, simple, low profile, and stays in place.

My panels are mounted on Thule Top Tracks installed in the poptop, and this gives flexibility in change over time.

For thread consistency, my setup is as follows:

Two 100 watt Renogy solar panels
Redarc BCDC1240D charger/charge controller (accepts current from solar or alternator)
Two 100 AH Battleborn LiFePO4 batteries in parallel (12v)
One BlueSea load panel.
BPC123047102 Blue Smart IP22 Charger connected to the load panel.

With a Blue Sea 1+2 battery switch I can change what is connected to the load panel. Normally, position 1 is the LiFePO4 battery bank. Position 2 is the start battery. Position 1+2 lets me jump the start battery from the LiFePO4 battery. Changing what battery is connected to the load panel lets me use the Victron charger to charge either start or aux battery systems (with reconfiguration of the Victron via bluetooth).

kourt


kourt

[flemcadiddlehopper]

Just digging up some old threads to see if anyone want to breath new life into them, given that it has been a few years and much more and better components are available now.

I have assemble my solar in the past year or two and it is mostly Renogy stuff. I have a 1000W inverter, 30 amp MPPT charge controller, A 20amp ac/dc charger, 2-100w flex solar panels (movable), 170W flex solar panel (roof top mounted), a switch for solar to a/c charge function and 2- 100 amp/hr smart (heated) lithium batteries.

Now am not an expert at solar systems by any means, but my goal was to be able to have indefinite power to my fridge (Iceco), chinese diesel heater, and starter battery, plus keeping all my other little batteries topped up.

What are others running now days?


Gordo
_________________
Everybody Dies....Some Never Live.

Retrograde Garage. Vintage Aircooled, and others.

[jimf909]

Did you achieve your goal?

My setup is similar to yours but using victron gear with less solar (160 watts) and more LiFePO4 battery (280 ah). My battery anxiety has largely gone away.
_________________
- Jim

[fxr]

300Ah LFP here, 100W solar fitted with an extra 100W suitcase for some trips, Renogy DCC50S solar/130A alternator charger, 1kW inverter, battery anxiety gone for good. Truckfridge 65, CDH, 3qt Instant Pot all happy. I take the cheapo 30V/10A Chinese power supply as a back-up mains charger 'just in case', but never had to use it.
_________________
Jim Crowther
1984 1.9l EJ22 Westy Wolfsburg Edition
Vespa GTS 300

[flemcadiddlehopper]

[tencentlife]

[Crooked Designer]

100Ah LiFePo, 200w solar mounted and 100w flex panel if parked in the shade. Renogy Rover 40a MPPT, Renogy DC DC 20a, Victron IP22 AC Charger 30a, 5a trickle charger for starter battery on when on shore power.
Truckfridge 65, Propex, Stereo, lights, many many device chargers.

Battery anxiety is muuuuch less, but likely to put another 100ah battery in bottom of closet and then I think it will be gone for good.

I wish I had a heated battery. Considering adding an RV heating pad. The money I didn't spend on a heated battery was surpassed instantly when I fried my MPPT on a cold, sunny morning. Now I turn solar off at night if I think it is going to be cold and check temps in the morning before charging.

I saw a question in the original post about DC DC charger turning on when charging starter battery. The Renogy I have isn't voltage sensing, so has a D+ signal wire. One of the best mods I've made is putting a switch on that wire, so I can have it off even when the car is on. I much prefer the solar to do the work on sunny days when I'm driving vs. running the DC DC charger (which is under the driver's seat and gets hot).
_________________
'85 Westy full camper, Subaru 2.5L, 5 speed SubiGears + 5speedbus shifter kit

[flemcadiddlehopper]

[jimf909]

[Crooked Designer]

[Wellington]

I have wondered what's the difference to connecting loads directly to the battery, vs connecting loads to the controller.
Is it bad to just put them on the battery?

[jimf909]