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1973 bay Window ALH conversion
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hometurbine
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 04, 2021 4:30 am    Post subject: Re: 1973 bay Window ALH conversion Reply with quote

N'Syncro,
I'm wrapping up my Subaru conversion and have the same question regarding OBD2 gauges.

The following should fit into the the gauge cluster
https://www.vectormotorsports.com/shop/aeroforce-interceptor-gauges/

Or this one comes in a wired or wireless version that you mount wherever (and is much chaper). The wireless version seems pretty nice if you want to make a custom display with a phone or similar
https://ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/ultragauge_wire..._rEALw_wcB
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'75 Westy Bus with Subaru EJ25 engine
GE CT58-100 helicopter gas turbine
Tiernay TT10 APU gas turbine
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N'Syncro
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 04, 2021 8:59 am    Post subject: Re: 1973 bay Window ALH conversion Reply with quote

Thanks Bill. We'll look into these, and will let you know what we decide to go with. I haven't ever created a build thread, but will once it's all done. Hopefully will be attempting to start it for the first time next weekend. Cheers!
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arminyack
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 07, 2021 9:50 am    Post subject: Re: 1973 bay Window ALH conversion Reply with quote

I've been chipping away at my cooling system...I after 3X other radiator choices, I settled on this one:
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/U-Weld-It-Custom-Aluminum-Radiator-Kit-22-x-19-Inch,93699.html

I used 2X 1.25" OD fittings on either end. The I squeezed in 2X SPAL 10" puller fans on the topside.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Its placed like so

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Now I need to run 1-1/4" coolant hose to it. I acquired some blue flexfab silicon hose...but this stuff really cannot tolerate anything but a slight bend radius before it buckles. So now i have to find something else. Would anyone have suggestions?
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vwwestyman
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 07, 2021 12:01 pm    Post subject: Re: 1973 bay Window ALH conversion Reply with quote

This is very similar to what I used:

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/shields-rubber--ser...ch-Results

This is probably what I would have used if I had seen it at the time:

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/shields-rubber--ser...cordNum=32

Looks like the difference is the first has a wire running inside of it for reinforcement, strength, and resistance to creasing. That is fine, but also makes it a little more difficult to seal (I needed two hose clamps at most connections to make it seal).

To create a couple bends I needed, I remember that I warmed the rubber by sitting it in front of my garage heater for a bit, then bent it as desired, and used duct tape to hold it in that bend as I heated it more and then let it cool and sit for at least a few hours with the tape on it.

It may be easier to just use that hose for nearly straight long runs, and the use a coupler to attach to a more traditional rubber section that attaches to the engine.

This is one part of my conversion that has had zero issues since installed.
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1978 Champagne Edition Westy, repowered to '97 Jetta TDI
1973 Wild Westerner
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arminyack
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2021 12:36 pm    Post subject: Re: 1973 bay Window ALH conversion Reply with quote

vwwestyman wrote:
This is very similar to what I used:

This is one part of my conversion that has had zero issues since installed.


Did you wind up using pusher fans or pullers on top? I'm trying to keep the radiator tucked up under as much as possible....I don't want to angle it forward, so i am going with the puller on top arrangement, and I will add either a scoop or thick gauge, 1/2" square wire mesh (or expanded metal) rock guard later. I do have a 12" pusher fan...bit its over 3" thick, and it might the clutch cable housing or ebrake cable housings....but ill see how this goes.
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vwwestyman
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2021 1:00 pm    Post subject: Re: 1973 bay Window ALH conversion Reply with quote

I have a scoop pushing air up through radiator, and a puller fan on top. Just the one. It's kind of to the right side, so most of the lines aren't in the way.
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arminyack
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2022 1:25 pm    Post subject: Re: 1973 bay Window ALH conversion Reply with quote

So I drove it on a ~100 mile trip after getting the cooling system moved under the bus. It still runs too hot. ~200°F on a 50 °F day. My IAT wasn't great either ...150°F - 165°F. I need to check for air bubbles in both the radiator and the intercooler system.
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WallisBD
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 11, 2022 9:07 am    Post subject: Re: 1973 bay Window ALH conversion Reply with quote

May I ask what the three relays by the ECM support?
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arminyack
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 11, 2022 12:56 pm    Post subject: Re: 1973 bay Window ALH conversion Reply with quote

WallisBD wrote:
May I ask what the three relays by the ECM support?


ECU power, Glow plug power....and i cant remember what the third one is for! I had Fast Forward Automotive make the harness, so I didnt make my own harness.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 11, 2022 1:07 pm    Post subject: Re: 1973 bay Window ALH conversion Reply with quote

I've been driving it quite a bit...I have over 1K miles on it since the conversion. My IAT's continue to be too high, but lower than the 16-165°F I was seeing. Im down to 130ish range once its all warmed up, but still too high. That being said, my EGT's hang out about 800°F at 3k rpm. I still need a sustained freeway trip to see how high they go...and we are still in winter (in socal however, we are seeing temps in the mid 80's lately!). I'm seriously considering ditching the water/air intercooler, and going with a large, air/air one.
Coolant temps dont budge. A month ago when it was hanging out in the mid 30's overnight, it ran at ~195°F. Now, with mid afternoon temps at ~85°F, its exactly the same.
I have some occasional annoying clutch judder when I take off in first gear from a standing start. I don't think I broke in the clutch disk properly. I overheated it a few times early on, before I realized i don't need to give it any gas on take off. Just ease out the clutch, and away I go!

I am still trying to get the hall effect VSS to talk to the ECU. I have it picking up the inner CV joint bolts, and it is pulsing, and the signal is going through a Dakota Digital SGI-1000BT for a 8000ppm signal, but still no dice. I need to futz with this more.

Other than that, this is my daily driver, and the swap has turned out quite well.
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WallisBD
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 11, 2022 1:13 pm    Post subject: Re: 1973 bay Window ALH conversion Reply with quote

I am terribly sorry I worded by question so poorly. What do the three relays/fuses in the fuse/relay box from online relay store support? Thank you.
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arminyack
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 11, 2022 2:15 pm    Post subject: Re: 1973 bay Window ALH conversion Reply with quote

WallisBD wrote:
I am terribly sorry I worded by question so poorly. What do the three relays/fuses in the fuse/relay box from online relay store support? Thank you.


Ah, those control:
-Intercooler Fan
-Intercooler coolant pump
-Electric Vacuum pump

The electric fans for the radiator are on a Derale 2 fan controller.
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vwwestyman
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 11, 2022 9:41 pm    Post subject: Re: 1973 bay Window ALH conversion Reply with quote

arminyack wrote:
I've been driving it quite a bit...I have over 1K miles on it since the conversion. My IAT's continue to be too high, but lower than the 16-165°F I was seeing. Im down to 130ish range once its all warmed up, but still too high. That being said, my EGT's hang out about 800°F at 3k rpm. I still need a sustained freeway trip to see how high they go...and we are still in winter (in socal however, we are seeing temps in the mid 80's lately!). I'm seriously considering ditching the water/air intercooler, and going with a large, air/air one.
Coolant temps dont budge. A month ago when it was hanging out in the mid 30's overnight, it ran at ~195°F. Now, with mid afternoon temps at ~85°F, its exactly the same.
I have some occasional annoying clutch judder when I take off in first gear from a standing start. I don't think I broke in the clutch disk properly. I overheated it a few times early on, before I realized i don't need to give it any gas on take off. Just ease out the clutch, and away I go!

I am still trying to get the hall effect VSS to talk to the ECU. I have it picking up the inner CV joint bolts, and it is pulsing, and the signal is going through a Dakota Digital SGI-1000BT for a 8000ppm signal, but still no dice. I need to futz with this more.

Other than that, this is my daily driver, and the swap has turned out quite well.


I don't know why everybody screws around with the CV joint speed sensor nonsense. I've posted about this thing before in Subaru conversion threads. Used it for my TDI conversion. (And previously for my 90's era cruise control installation in my Bus.)

Screws into the back of your speedometer, between the speedo and the cable. Generates a speed signal and the sender doesn't get gunky down by the CVs.

Even though it says it is a GM part, it is for an Opal. (I suppose they may be owned by GM.)

There are also similar devices you can get if you search for speedometer conversion kits. Some attach to the end of the cable, you'll want a "pass through" style. Though I can only say for sure that this Opal part uses the same threads as the VW Bus stuff.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/114968847432
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Dave Cook

President, Wild Westerner Club

1978 Champagne Edition Westy, repowered to '97 Jetta TDI
1973 Wild Westerner
My Thing
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