Heater Box to body work sealant recommendation needed

[Schustie]

Hello fellow masochists,
The pandora's box of heater core restoration is finally moving in a forward direction.
Everything I dismantled or "un-installed" required further dismantling to the point, I thought I was gonna be back at the engine before too long.
I got into doing some body work once I had the windshield out to do a temp fix on the usual rust "nostrils" in the lower corners...etc, etc.
-Dash out
-heater box out-new core; new blower motor; installed PWM controller (no resistor toaster assembly)
-wiper assembly out-dismantled, cleaned, re-lubed; re-assembled
-new washer hoses, all the way down to the reservoir (what a PIA)
-removed reservoir, cleaned, bench tested pump, etc.
-the list goes on...

Today I'm replacing the heater valve cable and installing heater box and Dash. Wish me luck.

I will post photos when I get a chance.

does anyone have any suggestions for a sealant/grease application for installing the heater box to the bodywork?
Bentley says, "Coat with D17 to prevent leaks".

I'm assuming I can use a light silicone style grease as a sealant between the body and the foam gaskets at the mounting areas?
Any recommendations are greatly appreciated.

Sorry this note is so scattered. Trying to wrap up this project for camping this weekend.
More coffee, more coffee.
Cheers,
Eric
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Eric
1990 Westy FAS Gen V TDi

[jlrftype7]

I would only use foam since the heater boxes are hard enough to remove as is. A ‘glued-to-the-body-‘ box could give you fits later on.
Plus, no sealant smells to endure from curing sealant if you make your schedule of camping this weekend.
If you have to seal, use Hylamar type sealant- fairly non hardening and low adhesion level too.
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'68 Westy- my first VW and vehicle/Bus- long gone.- sold it to a traveling Swiss couple....
'67 Type 3 Fastback, my 2nd car- gone
'69 Semi-Auto Stick Shift Beetle-gone
2017 MINI Coopers, our current DDs
‘84 Tin Top - Hilga....Auto

[Schustie]

Thanks jlrftype7,
yes, I would only use a non curing sealant. Appreciate the tips.
just a little something to keep out dirt.
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Eric
1990 Westy FAS Gen V TDi

[4Gears4Tires]

How are you keeping out the dirt? Are you going to add a HEPA filter in front of the heater box? If not, I wouldn't worry about the edges because you've 2 very large holes that will suck in all the dirt they can.
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'87 Syncro
Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition

[danfromsyr]

I know you are in a hurry to wrap it up, but I STRONGLY recommend a section of hardware cloth between the box and body openings.. critters really just LOVE to net in the 'habit trail' that is a VW heater box
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[Schustie]

Thanks for the tips.
I won't stress the dirt issue. Fair enough. Good idea about the hardware cloth.
Will look into that remedy.
There was a healthy little nest in the heater box when I opened it. See photos.

_________________
Eric
1990 Westy FAS Gen V TDi

[danfromsyr]

yeah if only the factory put a perforated metal plate between the heater and the body openings.. no one would ever experience the aroma of mouse pee on a heater aluminum core.
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[4Gears4Tires]

Schustie, that looks very familiar. I would recommend the vanistan cabin air control mod, it includes a pest shield and it really works to reduce the amount of air flowing in. I use it all the time and honestly can't imagine my van without it now.

My only improvement would be that I wish the carb choke cable "locked" with a 1/4 turn. I can push it and get it to be tighter sealed than I can with it just holding in place. Would be nice to push and lock and really get a good seal. But it's still a 97% improvement over nothing which is awesome.

https://intrepidoverland.com/shop/cabin-air-control/
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'87 Syncro
Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition

[danfromsyr]

ohh fwiw I used the camper shell/topper foam to seal the box to body places.

I use window felt to recreate and seal the flaps inside the heater box.

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[Wildthings]

If you want more heat you can either remove that stupid restricter plate or drill a bunch of extra holes in it. I did this on one of my Vanagon and removed the plate on the other. Removing it is a step of in heat output.

[Schustie]

Thanks danfromsyr, and others for the tips.

The information was really useful and I learned a lot about the air intake for the Vanagon. Interesting how it is just a large air scoop with a plastic cover that leaves huge gaps at the top. (I'm going to create something to fill that area? Maybe some Air pre-filter material?)

I took the advice on the hardware cloth but went with some metal window screen material. I used two layers and tried my best to bend it and conform it to where it mates to the body

I opened up bolt holes and used a strand to wire it in place to the heater box

Here it is installed

Here's a close up.

Yes, "down the road" I'll do upgrades to the air intake. Great idea.


Thanks again for all the tips and suggestions. The Samba is awesome.

On to the Dash....

For anyone else rebuilding their heater boxes, here' a foam kit produced by Brickwerks, in the UK. It worked great.


https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/heating/heater-box-foam-kit-t3-all.html

Cheers,
Eric
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Eric
1990 Westy FAS Gen V TDi

[Schustie]

By the way, I have a friend with a "Westy Ranch" out in the desert, and he told me a trick to discourage rodents. Buy the cheapest, stinkiest dryer sheets, and stuff 'em all around your engine bay. He swears by this trick and says it saves his wiring and insulation.
Curious if anyone else has heard of this or tried it.
We could stuff a ton of these in the air opening while parked during "off season".
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Eric
1990 Westy FAS Gen V TDi

[Wildthings]

[Vanagon Nut]