Bushings for carb butterfly shaft?

[modok]

Yeah that's fine I'm actually machining more plastic these days, getting into it a little. Milling it seems to work great, drilling/reaming not so good.
maybe machining butter is more up your alley.
it is more ideal, I agree.

Just saying with bronze.... makes no difference at all if it's new or it isn't, it does not change over time.

zinc carburetors and throttle shafts and plastic on the other hand of course are temporary flashes in the pan which will just be pollution for the next generations to figure out.

If you have a 8mm shaft you use a 7mm scrap valve guide. I think you got it but then again I'm not sure
Shafts can be made smaller and holes can be made larger, is the way repairing machinery tends to go, unless you run into some wall then we need to resort to more wild methods.

The whole rest of the entire thing is, well, kind of also NOT ideal, so I just don't see any reason to overkill this too much. Don't need to get into it but you want to be a critic lets take a look at everything from the gas pedal to the throttle plate and see how ideal all that is, I mean, room for improvement in a lot of areas. And it it was improved in such a way to reduce vibration of the throttle why, just imagine how long it could last!
maybe long enough to justify a chromed shaft.

[Chickensoup]

[Chickensoup]

Ok theres a truck load of info and points that have been made since my last post.

Just wanted to let yall know, I did read it


Sooo. The basic Igus rod is cheap as hell.

Just to clarify, this version will work right?

I started mocking up the DRO on the lathe last night. Then realized I was late for swim lol.

_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"

[raygreenwood]

[Vanapplebomb]

[Ebel]

I think the “flash in the pan” he was talking About is what happens when the junked part winds up in a furnace again. The metal gets recycled. Plastic just burns up.

[modok]

Right. And I don't know why sintered material keeps being mentioned, because nobody is recommending it. Tho it could work maybe depending on what kind. Not oilite.

My 1960 has little bronze wheels on the ashtray and they still work great.
It's simple and it works good enough. The carburetor on the other hand...... is long dead

[Chickensoup]

[Chickensoup]

ok, The T500 is on the way! I ordered 120mm worth to try it out.

Will carbide inserts work well? I assume lube or cutting oil is a no no. Finding machining info on igus rod seems difficult. At least i haven't found anything yet.

thanks
_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"

[Lingwendil]

It would be interesting to chrome or electroless nickel plate the shaft, and then do some of that T500 material for bushings. It would likely outlast all of us
_________________
73 super beetle thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=649622 Back on the Road!

Modify your Kadrons for SVDA http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8115884#8115884

Cast iron VJU4BR8 SVDA reference thread- https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

Need replacement filters for original Kadron aircleaners? WIX #42087 is a perfect fit, as is Napa Gold #2087!

[Brian_e]

[Chickensoup]

[Chickensoup]

Success! I'll explain more on this later. The two steel pieces, I barely prepped which is why you can see all the imperfections.

And here's an original style carb bushing. Eww!

_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"

[raygreenwood]

Lengwindil has a good point. Nickel plated shafts with low friction plastic bushings....yes would outlast all of us.

As Brian_e noted.....yes for "most" plastics....no carbide. But for the igus graphited Torlon bushings.....use coated HSS like Tin coated. The graphite dulls the tool.

As for nickel plating. Some things to remember.
So you are nickel plating brass jets and tubes. That seems pretty cool and may be a good idea.
But.....I am not sure that nickel plating has the same surface tribology as the brass. I dont know how well a fuel emulsion will form on them. Thats one question.

The other is that on the brass parts pictured....you MUST have plating inside and out. Full coverage. Electroplate generally cannot do that unless you have electrode rods that can reach into the holes and the bore.

The risk is that if parts of those jets are not plated and water gets to them.....if and when they start to corrode.....they will corrode LATERALLY.....underneath the nickel. The nickel itself will not rust. But....nickel is also NOT a sacrificial anode like zinc.

Example....you can take a steel plate of several feet sqaure. Place a pure zinc anode into the center....bolt it on. Drop the plate in hot salt water for a hundred hours or so. When you pull it out.....you will see rust all around the edges......but you will see a big circle around the zinc anode where the electrolytic field of influence prevents corrosion.

So even a partially zinc plated part has anti-corrosion capability. Not so with nickel. Nickel itself will never rust.

So if you nickel plate a part ....it will never rust or corrode.....until....you break that nickel film anywhere. Like....if you nickel plate a part that comes in contact with another hard steel part and it wears a hole through the plating. Or if you nickel plate a brake cylinder bore or calipef and then scratch through it. Or if you have a part plated and when you bolt something to it the fastener scratches the bore it goes through.

This does not mean it WILL rust....but when it does.....the rust stays under the nickel plating. It starts to rust at the scratch and then starts rusting away underneath in all directions forming cavities. Eventually the unsupported nickel plate will flake off.

EDIT: this is why many carburetor and fuel sysytem parts are ELECTROLESS plated.....with "zinc/nickel" plating.

Zinc-nickel electroless is just bad ass. You get uniformity of coating.....sacrificial anode anti-rust.....and the hardness, surface grain and polish-ability of nickel.

However.....the chemistry and electrolyte are precise and difficult. Its rarely a simple home process unless you have serious instrumentation and chemical analysis for the baths....and you would be very hard pressed to find recipes on line. Its a very valuable and lucrative process......and those plating plants that offer it (and there are many).....are VERY secretive about the recipe and process. Its a moneymaker and they do not hive it away.

However.....if you had carb parts to plate sith zinc-nickel.....it would probably not be that expensive.

Ray

[Chickensoup]

I appreciate the knowledges!

I think im going to skip nickel plating the jets at the moment until I do a little more research. I nickel plated the emulsion tube just to see if it plated better than the steel. However, I can tell you this. The uncoated but cleaned brass tube feels flat and smooth. The nickel coated tube feels very slippery and smooth even when completely dry.

https://youtube.com/shorts/FwsR-g1FS0c?feature=share

I took a video of a lever I just plated. Steel. I media blasted it, wire wheeled it, and then cleaned it in sodium hydroxide. Followed by a rinse in distilled water.

I'm pretty sure the darker flat spots is where heavyish corrosion used to be. Will dipping in acid fix those finish defects?

Thanks!
_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"

[Chickensoup]

Heres a piece that wasn't pitted. It seems the key to an even looking plate is having it so before hand? The whiter parts are from where I flat sanded it. I know the coating is THICK because I wire wheeled a piece I plated yesterday.

The brights and lows is the reflection.
_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"

[rugblaster]

I have a drill, driver, and some bronze bushings we repaired Solex carbs on type 2 with back when paper only had one side. I'll send them to someone that will use them. Pay the shipping and a 12 pack of Shiner Bock. Might be a good gift for one of you're mother-in-laws. I ain't fuckin' with this shit anymore. I'll check back in a few weeks.
_________________
'69 Karmy, '69 Camper, Meyers clone, '65 drag bug, 10.78 @ 128 (sold it) '51 Dodge farm truck,
'09 MB E350 '18 MB E400, '65 Plymouth Valiant convertible and a '19 Ford F250 King Ranch (nicer, but dirty, farm truck)

VWoA factory trained line tech 75 till 90 or so
ASE Master Certification
VWoA Assoc. of Quality Technicians inductee (One of 25 in the five state southwest region)
La Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin (San Angelo Chapter)
TCU ......GO FROGS!!!!!!

[raygreenwood]

[Ebel]

Pretty much any part that gets plated, anodizing or any other finish will vary with the original parts finish. You plate a crappy part. It looks like plated crap. Except the plating makes it look worse. You can use carbide on plastics. But unless you get stuff with the right geometry your better with HSS. If it’s a glass filled plastic it will destroy HSS pretty quickly though. Keep the rpm relatively low or you can start melting it. Sometimes depending on how much you cut and from where the part will warp after cutting. I Don’t try reaming it to size. It could possibly work if you try enough times with enough variation though.

[Chickensoup]

Awesome thanks for the infos yall.

Here is a nickel plated vs black oxide with polish shafts.

Nickel on left. The nickel shaft was a poor candidate. It was pitted, and very worn. Even after the Emory cloth polish, the surface us rough. Which im guessing is due to contamination while in operation. I say this because there is lots of granials imbeded into the bushing ID.

_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"