Swapping injection pumps in 1.6TD

[ndorian]

Water pump is leaking. I made sure all hose connections were tight. Seems like it's coming from the water pump halves that I had separated. I should have replaced the housing too, since my housing is missing a boss for a bolt going through the pump. I figured that since the old one didn't leak... So now I will follow Waldo's instructions on removing the complete water pump with the ip pump installed. Thanks for those. I'm paying for halfassedness.

Or I could drill and tap a boss into this housing.

[syncroserge]

I don't think anyone who has witnessed the 11 pages of this thread would call
ANYTHING that you have done halfassedness !

[ndorian]

Thanks syncroserge. I am grateful for the injectors that you practically gave to me. I decided to use my 130 psi injectors b/c they are pretty much new. My plan is to get the 155 psi ones rebuilt or do it myself.

[ndorian]

Besides the slight leak in water pump, the engine is running great. I checked the pedal while floored and it is hitting the stop screw. I tried turning the stop screw out and that may have helped a tiny amount. The way it is now I can't really go much faster than 60mph, but my egt's never go past 850-900 tops. So I really think it's ok to turn the max fuel screw in a quarter to half turn. Other than top speed the van has more power with this set up, no doubt.

Was looking at transmission ratios and it seems that a DK 4 speed transmission will cruise at 55 at a lower rpm than my diesel 5 speed. Might look into the swap details.

[?Waldo?]

The DX 5-speed is as good as it gets for a 1.6TD, IMO. A DK 4-speed would be a step down. Also, you'd need to swap the linkage and front shifter. Get 27" rear tires if you want to drop the cruising rpms a bit. It is very easy to 'overgear' these vehicles and not have the power to pull taller gearing. That is even worse with a 4-speed with the wider gaps between gears. If you think you have plenty of power for taller gearing, then an R+P swap with the DX would be much better than a DK swap, although unless you go to a stronger engine, I wouldn't even recommend that.

If you are seeing 900°F pre-turbine max, then IMO you could turn up the fuel a bit. I'd aim for 1200°F pre-turbine. The difference in performance between the two would be significant.

[Alan Brase]

[AndyBees]

The 1.6 diesel (turbo or N/A) is a high revving engine that builds its HP in the higher rev range. So, the lower ratio (short) of the Ring & Pinion in the OE diesel gear box is necessary to use the HP most efficiently.

The primary difference in a the DK gasser and the Diesel 4-speed DM is the much taller 4.57 R&P vs 5.43, basically one revolution difference, but a significant difference.

The DK gasser and DM diesel have the same ratios in 1st, 2nd and 4th gears. The difference in 3rd gear is virtually insignificant (DK 1.23 & DM 1.26).

Below is a comparison (Excel generated) of the DX, DM and DK transmission effective ratios by gear and RPMs needed at 70 MPH in top gear.

_________________
'84 Vanagon Tin-top, ALH TDI. 1989 Tin-top
1983 Air-cool, 225k miles, 180k miles mine. Seven trips to Alaska from 1986 thru 2003.

[ndorian]

I appreciate the feedback. I think that for now I will just drive the van. It'd be nice if it had one more high gear for the highway. I am going to try to remove the collar on the max fuel screw. I read that it is ok to remove the screw from the pump to work on it.

Edit; I have 27" tires. I think they are great.

[AndyBees]

The RPMs at 70 mph could be reduced to about 3525 by replacing 5th gear (0.77 ratio) with a 0.75 ratio. However, that would be a rather expensive endeavor. The matching gears, with cone, from Weddle would be approximately $375 plus shipping. Of course, the transmission would have to be dissected which is a major job and without the proper tools could become a nightmare. And, going in that far, it would be senseless to not replace some items (Synchronizer rings, bearings, upgraded 3/4 hub, etc.). The numbers will add up quick.

I am almost 100% sure that gears for the 091 (3rd & 4th) are the same as 4th and 5th of the DX from a fitment stand point. They are in the same locations on the shafts. I've not looked at a Bentley Manual in a while on this topic.

Keep us posted!
_________________
'84 Vanagon Tin-top, ALH TDI. 1989 Tin-top
1983 Air-cool, 225k miles, 180k miles mine. Seven trips to Alaska from 1986 thru 2003.

[ndorian]

See, I am not sure if I have a DX transmission. The previous owner said that he couldn't get parts for the original transmission so he put in another diesel 5 speed transmission from a Doka. I think he said it was an '89 Doka. I did some research and see that I may have a different 5 speed with a shorter 5th gear than the DX. I need to find the code on my transmission.

[ndorian]

I got the collar off. It was welded onto the screw, so it tore up some threads. The screw still moves through the nut so it's ok. I did a little experiment and turned the screw in at least two turns. The van took off but it was too much. I got runaway fueling in between shifts. I will dial it down tomorrow as it is dark out here.

[?Waldo?]

Two full turns is a HUGE increase in fueling. I would recommend 1/8 turns at at time. The idle needs to be lowered with every increase in the max fuel screw. The idle being too high is what causes the runaway situation.

[ndorian]

Okay, I confirmed that I have an ABR transmission. That sux. A DX would be an upgrade. Even better an AAS. I will start hunting for the AAS.

[AndyBees]

ABR has a .82 5th gear which requires roughly 3900 RPMs at 70 MPH with 27 inc tires ...

I see why you are searching for another gear...... likely there is a lot of resonance inside at speeds over 60 MPH.

Yeah, a DX would be at roughly 3625 RPMs at 70 MPH.
_________________
'84 Vanagon Tin-top, ALH TDI. 1989 Tin-top
1983 Air-cool, 225k miles, 180k miles mine. Seven trips to Alaska from 1986 thru 2003.

[ndorian]

Everything is the same except for the final drive. ABR=5.5, AAS=4.83. Maybe I can just change that out in mine. Please excuse the dumb question here, but the final drive is the same thing as r&p; located in the rear axle hub?

[?Waldo?]

Yes, the final drive is the same as the ring and pinion. It is located in the transaxle. To swap the ring and pinion basically requires an entire trans rebuild.

[ndorian]

Thanks. Maybe in the future then.

[Alan Brase]

[ndorian]

Heavy. I think I am stuck with this ABS transmission for now. When I think about upgrading the trans. I wonder about upgrading the motor first. That whole process would have to be thought out and then paid for. I was thinking AAZ but from what I read, the 1Z or AHU or 1Z/AHU is a similar amount of work to install and gives better performance.

Taking the back roads is always better (imo) on trips, so van is good for that and driving around town.

[AndyBees]

There are some Vanagon TDI conversions in the TDI Club.

When I was searching info 15 years ago to do my ALH TDI conversion, it was a struggle. Those that had the info either wouldn't share it or wanted pay for it. And, many had no clue what they were talking about.

So, I started a Thread on my conversion and shared everything. It got way too long. But, I have since categorized all the things I did and provided links to them within the Thread. Yes, I made some mistakes along the way, who doesn't? I learned from them and moved on. As I may have stated here in your Thread, I'm putting together another DK transmission build. My wife would kill me if she knew how much I have in it thus far ..... and it is still not assembled.

I agree, if you plan to make the changes you've alluded to, you should put together a plan.

In the link below, scroll down to: VW Van swaps

https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/tdi-c...ns.142679/
_________________
'84 Vanagon Tin-top, ALH TDI. 1989 Tin-top
1983 Air-cool, 225k miles, 180k miles mine. Seven trips to Alaska from 1986 thru 2003.