Reinzosil vs Yamabond

[francoangellini]

Hi Guys;

In my local Yamaha store Yamabond seal not in stock...I dont want seal the cases with simple RTV ...Find another alternative Reinzosil:

Victor Reinz "Reinzosil" 70ml Engine Gasket Sealer Anthracite + 300 Degrees C
Extremely high stability at high temperatures
Solvent-free
Permanently elastic
Fast-hardening silicon
High thermal stability from -50c to 300c
Very good durability against internal combustion fuels and diesel fuels, bio-diesel, oil, grease, lubricants, water, seawater, sunlight etc
Particularly intended for sealing all surfaces in engines, gearboxes and axles, and also for cylinder liners and synthetic housings.
Very suitable for uneven and rough surfaces.
All-purpose application for use with all makes of engines and vehicles.

This product Is fine for seal the cases??.. Similar to Yamabond??

Any experiences??

Best.

[FreeBug]

Victor Reinz products are of exellent quality fo the most part, I would not hesitate to use, but not THAT to seal the CASE, it's for the cylinder bases.

For the cases, I like Curil K-2.

[Dale M.]

You would be better going with something NOT RTV based... RTV's are best for sealing cylinder bases and then applied in sparce amounts, like a bead the size of a pencil lead around base of cylinder.... Remember you are only trying to seal against oil seeping from slight imperfection in machining of bottom of cylinder to case...

Yes there are 1000 products out there to seal cases but one of the old standby is something almost ever auto parts store has...

Non-hardening of course....

Dale
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[esde]

funny that case sealers have never been discussed before..

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modok wrote:
Bent cranks are silent but gather no moss. I mean, ah, something like that.

[Dan Ruddock]

Honda bond seems just the same as the Yamaha stuff. Dan

[mark tucker]

I like the gelseal (gell locktight) it not only seals the case halvs but it also helps hold the case in place so they dont fret under higher power levels. the other stuff can let the cases move around and fret. I wont use that nasty black spermetex.although mercury racing has a sealer(perfect seal) that looks a lot like that crap but is awesome for sealing stuff, comes off eazer and drys almost like rubber. what ever you use be sure it's all clean and oil free and is ready to bolt togeather as some can start setting up and create a gap in the case halvs due to thickness and...that aint good.

[FreeBug]

[esde]

Honda/ Yama/ threebond all have several formulas. Just saying the brand name is not specific enough. Some are silicone based, some not, and other differences
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modok wrote:
Bent cranks are silent but gather no moss. I mean, ah, something like that.

[francoangellini]

Yamabond 5 and Reinzosil RTV bases formula definitly!!.....Then what difference have it with economic RTV grey??....Only the trade mark??... I dont know!!....Maybe Yamabond 6B is a good alternative but is to expensive!!

It seems hardening, elasticity, solvents and temps resistance are the important points to considerer... Anyway I have seen many aircooled enthusiasts using simple gray RTV without problems in the time, but the risk is that the internal surpluses block the oil galleys and engines die.

I used in the past for years a similar "honey glue Perfect circle" before, but do not sell it anymore.

I wil try to find Permatex aviation, at moment only sell in my local store Permatex 1 and 2....But Permatex aviation "non hardening" is not the same or similar Formula to Permatex 2??...Maybe the first is more liquid than the other?...Both resist high temps fine??

I have very good references with Curil T but I would have to import it.


My best.

[jpaull]

[francoangellini]

Looks like a real good seal!!...I´ll try to find in my country!!


Thanks

[pondervwmike]

I dont know whats available in Chile man. But if you can find Loctite 518 or 515 I have heard they work well.
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[francoangellini]

Just for sale in my country this two permatex flange sealant....51813 and 51531....

[modok]

[francoangellini]

[modok]

You can use whatever you like along the bottom edge of the sump, and the top seam. IMO it is important to use a NON-HARDENING sealer near the bearings because the type-1 engine may not fully close the gaps by the main bearings until it has gone through several heat cycles.
This is because the main studs are large diameter (not very springy) and only tighten halfway at room temperature. think about it. the main studs are as big as your wheel bolts so why only 20 ft-lb?
At running temp, gets hot, the mag expands 2.5X faster than the steel so the main studs are now very tight when the engine is hot. If you want to use a 518 sealant on the case all the way around IMO.....tighten main studs to 35-40 ft-lb, then let it cure for a few hours, then loosen and re-tighten to 20-25 ft-lb, MAYBE that will work. Run a wire brush over the surfaces before applying the 518 sealant to break through the oxide layer slightly and then will need no primer. The instructions will say you need to use a primer on mag/aluminum but BE CAREFUL as the primer may make it cure too fast, and will harden before the bolts are tightened.

What is better...no leaks? or Loose bearings? I'll take leaks. VW enthusiasts spend way too much time thinking about this and end up worse than using nothing. the permatex #3 is good choice because it can do no harm. Is it the best? no, but it works OK,and won't bite you in the ass. If the surfaces are nice and flat it won't leak. I sealed my case it with ketchup as a joke, 7? years ago. It isn't leaking very much today. I don't need to add any oil between changes. If it was completely oil tight it would rot anyway Sometimes the case is porous and they leak right through the metal.

[Danwvw]

I want to try this stuff: Optimum Grey Gasket Maker, Permatex it's higher Temperature than Ultra Gray.
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[modok]

"Rigid torque" means it has grit in it so it won't squeeze too thin

[earthquake]

I have always wondered about using the silk thread method like they do on some aircraft engines, what do they use to hold it in place with though?

eQ
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[Witnin01340]

The oldtimers i knew used Indian head shellac and iv used it for decades and engines i built 15yrs ago is still dry at the case seams,the only thing its thick so one side of the case is all i put it on and then i take a tough paper towel and smooth it over but it dont leave alot of time to assemble and it use to be .50 a bottle now its 5-6 a bottle,permatex makes it.

I know theres better stuff out there these days but i still use it because it works for me.