1977 2.0L FI Teardown

[germansupplyscott]

[raygreenwood]

[D52E]

I have run into some trouble getting parts for this thing. It seems the engine builder did not send back the flywheel ring that holds on the felt washer for the pilot bearing. I tried a few places and no one seems to have one. The bus depot just called be back and said it would be around June for the next shipment from Germany.

Does anyone know if I can just buy a type 1 gland nut and extract the ring? Will it fit on a type 4 228mm flywheel?

Edit - I ordered a gland nut and the ring was too big. On my type 4 the flywheel hole seems to be slightly smaller than the pilot bearing diameter. I ended up fabricating a piece of tube to fit.
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1977 Bus
2.0 fuel injection
Solid lifters
Manual transmission
GM 105A Alternator

[SGKent]

according to Scott on a post on the subject - yes. Find a used old gland nut and both the felt and sealing ring should be there. It is supposed to be part number 111 105 315. Scott used to sell them. VW Classic DE sells them for 1.79 EU but you have to buy thru a Classic dealer as time I checked.

111 105 315
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[D52E]

It looks like I had a rocker arm stud strip out at the M7 nut side. I have a new stud now.

I'm now looking for a nut but I'm concerned it could require a grade 10.9 or 12.9 hardened nut which is not available at a local hardware store. OEM part number online seems to be N0110077.

Does anyone know if I can use a metric grade 8.8 nut or maybe I should order an OEM nut to be safe?
_________________
1977 Bus
2.0 fuel injection
Solid lifters
Manual transmission
GM 105A Alternator

[D52E]

Double post - delete
_________________
1977 Bus
2.0 fuel injection
Solid lifters
Manual transmission
GM 105A Alternator

[SGKent]

your local Porsche dealer or VW dealer may stock that part. It is an odd size otherwise. I'd be looking for at least 10.9 probably. It has a fairly low torque - e.g., 10 ft lb as I recall.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[D52E]

Thanks for the feedback. I ordered a couple of them from the local Volkswagen dealer. It’s gonna take them about three or four days to get them.
_________________
1977 Bus
2.0 fuel injection
Solid lifters
Manual transmission
GM 105A Alternator

[D52E]

The saga continues. I got the engine running and broke in the cam for 30 minutes with ZDDP additive and diesel engine oil. Cut the oil filter open and no metal shavings - I was very relieved.

I proceeded to change the oil, adjust the valves and idle it for 20 minutes while I made some adjustments to the airflow meter. Engine started to make a diesel engine like sound and quickly stalled after the noise started. I was not able to restart it despite cranking a few times.

I pulled the valve covers off and noticed #4 intake valve broke at the keepers. I'm kind of stumped on what could have caused it. I'm not seeing installation issues as of now. I suspect it may be a part quality issue. I hope to save the piston by sanding the sharp edges and replace the intake valve.

-Valve keepers appeared to be fully seated in the retainer when I disassembled it.
-Valve gaps were just set at 0.006" on a hot engine after break-in.
-Pushrods were changed to correct 271 mm length aluminum type when I went to solid lifters (previous hydraulic).
-Intake valve and keepers were bus depot parts that I installed on the previous engine top-end job sometime last year due to keeper groove wear noticed on previous tear down.
-Valve seat appears to be in correct location with no witness marks of movement
-Cam is stock spec and cylinders were shimmed 0.030"m so I dont think pushrod length and rocker geometry issue.

_________________
1977 Bus
2.0 fuel injection
Solid lifters
Manual transmission
GM 105A Alternator

[SGKent]

were the heads rebuilt?

I don't know for sure what the photo is below with concentric rings but I think that is a worn area on valve tip from a rocker arm screw. If it is, then the rocker arm screw has probably been sweeping that stem and spinning it fast. My thoughts are that maybe the rocker screw geometry changed enough that it side loaded the valve and that constant force fatigued the stem. Your valve seats look awfully wide, and frankly that looks more like a worn out engine than a rebuilt one.

[Wildthings]

Don't think its your cause, but the specified valve lash for solid lifters and aluminium pushrods is 0.006" on a COLD engine.

I haven't been keeping track of your build, but it looks like you have shallow dish 94mm pistons, just wondering where you found them?

[D52E]

AMC heads were disassembled and inspected about a year ago. Valve guides were nice and tight. 2 intake valves showed minor wear at the keeper grooves so they were replaced along with the keepers. All valves were lapped to the seats. Engine was run for about 7 to 8 months with no head issues until unrelated oil pressure issues developed and subsequent bottom end rebuild.

Heads were cleaned and reinstalled as they were functioning correctly with no noises or drivability issues before engine tear down.

There was a change from hydraulic to solid lifters (along with matching pushrods).
_________________
1977 Bus
2.0 fuel injection
Solid lifters
Manual transmission
GM 105A Alternator

[D52E]

[SGKent]

what are the concentric circles in the photo. I looks like the valve tip.

Who did the valve job a year ago?
_________________
“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[D52E]

[SGKent]

Ok - if that photo with the concentric rings is indeed the valve tip, and that valve looked like that when the engine was assembled, it should never have gone back in that engine. The metal may have fatigued, or whatever but for a tip to wear like that, if that is the tip, the hardened part of the tip would have been gone so only the softer metal remained. If the tip is too low then the rocker can hit the valve retainer and snap the tip off. Also it would imply a very high mile valve where the tip has been ground several times so that all the hardener material is gone. The valve seat looks way wide and will carbon up easily. From the photo, and photos can be deceiving, the seat looks to only have one angle on it when it should have three.

As to the piston, a closer inspection is needed. You might be able to put a dremel wheel on it flat, like cutting paint, and feather the dings. I can't see how deep they are from the photos.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[germansupplyscott]

The valves that come in the AMC heads are not very good.
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SL

[Abscate]

That valve seat isn’t even close to good
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.ssS!

[D52E]

Thanks all for the feedback. I have ordered a new 94mm replacement piston from AA (supplier of the pistons in there now). I will confirm weight matches the companion piston within tolerance and give the cylinder a light hone/clean before re-assembly.

I have also contacted the local head repair shop (Headworks of Nashville) to look into a valve job on both heads (plus any replacement components required). The shop has been around for a while and has done some Ford parts for me before with good results.
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1977 Bus
2.0 fuel injection
Solid lifters
Manual transmission
GM 105A Alternator

[SGKent]

Be sure they know that the #1 failure on those heads is a dropped seat.

Len Hoffman used to do an occasional redo on AMC T4 bus heads but not og heads. I don't know if he still does but he is THE go to person, and whom I would get a bid from. Not far from you as the crow flies, 305 miles in Watkinsville GA. Should be inexpensive Fedex or UPS when that close.
_________________
“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin