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The Stupid Question Thread
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2022 10:51 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

You haven't explained why you think you need a new crankshaft. I also don't see how you are tying the cost of a cam into the cost of repairing a FI system. Have you preformed a simple tuneup? The best way to time your engine is to set it at 28° BTDC @3800+ rpm, hoses removed and plugged.

For what its worth, a factory replacement cam for my Toyota Land Cruiser was $500 45-years ago.
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notchboy
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2022 8:16 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

PetetheVWguy wrote:
Good evening, folks. Well, apparently having the stock fuel injection in my 2.0l is more a pain in the ass than one would expect. And why are Type IV engine components so expensive?! Emailed a sales rep from aircooled.net by the name of John, asking if they had a camshaft for a 78 2.0l with hyd. lifters. He said that the way to go was a Web-Cam. Now, I am a cheap sucker. Always have been. When I saw that a camshaft for a German import with a 4 cylinder low horsepower engine was $$$, I was shocked. Needless to say, I was to embarrassed to ask the Webcam folks if I could purchase one on an installment plan. Now, John may have provided me with a way out. He said there would be more options if I switch to solid lifters and run dual carbs instead of FI. My stupid question is: Is this even possible, and if so, how would I go about doing it? What parts would I need? I any of you can shed light upon my musings, I would appreciate it greatly. Heres hoping you all have a great week.
-Pete


Says you live in the desert? What state? If its California and your bus is a 75 or later then you have to keep the motor stock if you want to register it.
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PetetheVWguy
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2022 9:23 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Sorry for the confusion, I’m not the worlds best communicator. It’s a camshaft I was looking to buy, for an engine rebuild. She’s completely torn apart in my shop, and suffered a broken cam gear. There was some lobe scoring as well. I’m not trying to fix FI, that was just specifying what engine I had.
Hey Jason, I live in south Idaho area. They aren’t too particular about emissions here. Good thing to keep in mind though.
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Kwoggy
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2022 4:43 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Does anyone know what the part numbers are for the three rubber grommets in the engine bay? Or who sells replacement ones?

I think the one on the left of the engine bay is part#111-907 WCM. https://www.westcoastmetric.com/i-22968651-111-907.html
Or
https://www.westcoastmetric.com/i-22968657-113-907.html - The description makes me think this is not one of them.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2022 5:06 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Here's the one for the battery cable: https://www.westcoastmetric.com/i-22964358-111-707.html , the other main one looks correct, the one on the LH side could be the one you linked, at $2.50 it's not a big loss if it's wrong.
Your FLAPS likely has a grommet selection as well, that LH one isn't anything special.
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KentABQ Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2022 5:19 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Has anyone heard the attendance numbers for BBB 2022?
Robbie guesstimated it at 500-550 while he was there.
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KentABQ Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2022 7:54 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

KentABQ wrote:
Has anyone heard the attendance numbers for BBB 2022?
Robbie guesstimated it at 500-550 while he was there.

Well, according to Facebook, the final number was 517.
Robbie was right in the ballpark.
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"I must say, how can you be in a bad mood driving this vehicle full of vibrant color.
Cars of today are so bland in comparison. It's like driving a celebration!"
---WildIdea

Bus ownership via emoticons:
Very Happy Shocked Mad Sad Embarassed d'oh! Pray Brick wall Pray Dancing Dancing Dancing ---williamM
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Kwoggy
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2022 10:44 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Thanks busdaddy. I will take a look at the local FLAPS next time I am there.
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PetetheVWguy
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 25, 2022 3:45 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Afternoon, all. Buying pistons and cylinders for the 78 2.0, looking to keep stock size, (94x71mm) and wondered about the air cooled VW community's opinion on AApistons? Are they good to buy? Saw them, have heard good things from a gentleman who rebuilds air cooled engines, just wanted a second opinion, thanks.
Also what is the stock cubic centimeter measurement (cc) for the piston dish? I've seen 3cc, 7cc, 10cc, and 11cc dished pistons.
-Pete
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Rebuilt engine after it sat for ~20 years.
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airschooled
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 25, 2022 10:15 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

PetetheVWguy wrote:
Afternoon, all. Buying pistons and cylinders for the 78 2.0, looking to keep stock size, (94x71mm) and wondered about the air cooled VW community's opinion on AApistons? Are they good to buy? Saw them, have heard good things from a gentleman who rebuilds air cooled engines, just wanted a second opinion, thanks.
Also what is the stock cubic centimeter measurement (cc) for the piston dish? I've seen 3cc, 7cc, 10cc, and 11cc dished pistons.
-Pete


Hi Pete,

With Mahle 2.0 bus pistons being available for not much extra money, I wouldn't try to pinch pennies here.

10-11cc seems to be normal for late bus dished pistons. My T1 early bay dishes measure less, 2-5cc depending on brand.

Robbie
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PetetheVWguy
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2022 3:13 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Thanks Robbie, that’s a good point. Have a good one.
Pete
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DocNexil
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2022 2:15 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I'm looking to correct what I assume are mismatched parts to my clutch. It has recently failed so I'd like to fix it correctly. I have a '71 bus with a transmission that likely isn't the original. I've identified it as a 002 (#002 302 103B), but I'm almost certain the bell housing has been replaced. Is there a way to identify that before engine removal? And in '71 the clutch went to the TOB sleeve with no clutch collar, right? I know right now mine has no sleeve and has the collar, but did the operating shaft change with those things as well? I appreciate the replies, I've got a lot to learn.
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kreemoweet
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2022 3:16 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Early 002 (68-early 69) clutch housing is about 1/2" narrower than later, it should be obvious if you have one in a non-matching 002.
72-75 002 clutch housings have the two "mounting ears" on top, which your '71 has no use for. Again, should be obvious.
Either early or late clutch setups can be used, with any of those clutch housings, as long as components all match, and yes the operating shaft arms that cradle TO bearing changed along with the TO bearing style. The early clutch housings will of course
require some mods to use the later TOB guide sleeve
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DocNexil
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2022 4:24 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

kreemoweet wrote:
Early 002 (68-early 69) clutch housing is about 1/2" narrower than later, it should be obvious if you have one in a non-matching 002.
72-75 002 clutch housings have the two "mounting ears" on top, which your '71 has no use for. Again, should be obvious.
Either early or late clutch setups can be used, with any of those clutch housings, as long as components all match, and yes the operating shaft arms that cradle TO bearing changed along with the TO bearing style. The early clutch housings will of course
require some mods to use the later TOB guide sleeve


Thank you, this is some handy information!

Ok, so would it be safe to assume that I have the wrong operating shaft if the TOB and collar are matching? I'm not sure why else it would suddenly fail with ~2500 miles on the clutch overall. I still have pedal return but there's not much pressure needed to depress it anymore, which is why I think there's something broken inside.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2022 5:13 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

No need to assume anything. You're gonna have to take engine out and look anyway. It's hard to imagine how anyone could put an old-style
TOB on a new-style operating shaft. They just don't fit together.

Diaphragm-type clutches fail for no particular reason. TOB's fall off. Shaft arms break at the
welds. Shaft splines get stripped. Etc.
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Jalabert
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2022 1:03 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I'm running a type 4, 1700. It's got relatively low miles on it - c.75k. Last time I checked compression was about 15k miles ago, 120 all round.

The only generally available 1700 p&c's seem to be AA.

I'm planning on hauling the engine out this winter, one of the jobs being to remove the heat exchangers to weld up a few signs of wear and tear. I'm sure I'm not alone in detesting removing these from the head, and not much enjoying reattaching them either.

I'm pondering - while I'm here, will having the cylinders honed and re-ringing the pistons extend their service life?
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2022 1:21 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Jalabert wrote:
I'm running a type 4, 1700. It's got relatively low miles on it - c.75k. Last time I checked compression was about 15k miles ago, 120 all round.

The only generally available 1700 p&c's seem to be AA.

I'm planning on hauling the engine out this winter, one of the jobs being to remove the heat exchangers to weld up a few signs of wear and tear. I'm sure I'm not alone in detesting removing these from the head, and not much enjoying reattaching them either.

I'm pondering - while I'm here, will having the cylinders honed and re-ringing the pistons extend their service life?

If it ain't broke don't fix it, unless it's using oil, then now's your chance to deal with it.
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2022 3:33 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Thanks BD - that works for me! Very Happy

Lucky to use a pint of oil every 3000 miles...
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2022 4:44 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Jalabert wrote:
Thanks BD - that works for me! Very Happy

Lucky to use a pint of oil every 3000 miles...

Don't mess with success, once you open it up it'll turn into a slippery slope. Wink
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2022 7:14 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Anyone able to measure the total height of their tin top with a roof rack?

My bus is currently in a shop so I'm not able to measure it.

So far searches have brought that it is around the 7' (+-2").

Need some confirmation.

Thanks!
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