Dual Carb, Aftermarket EFI or Subaru Conversion - Taipan Buggy

[MattisRattis]

First post, please be gentle

I've made a fairly new purchase of a Taipan buggy (Perth, Australia) and its currently running a swingaxle gearbox with a 1600 dual port motor. Enjoying the experience, had been looking for a long time to find the right one.

Appears to be running a 40mm centre mounted Weber DCNF, 009 mech adv only distributor and a set of aftermarket headers with no manifold heating up tubes.

For the most part the buggy runs well, but off idle its got a nasty flat spot. After sitting idle at the lights it also seems to fuel up, black smoke on take-off. Starts fine, idles fine, runs reasonably clean from 1/4 throttle on.

Have read a vacuum advance distributor or a more powerful ignition/distributor combo can assist here. I also have a carb rebuild kit that came with the buggy, which Im planning to fit shortly as its no real cost except for time here. What about fuel pressure, could this be too high, its running mech fuel pump, looks newish.

But after reading about how hard it is to get these centre mount carbs to run well (especially as I dont have the manifold heaters and dont want to change the exhaust to get these) Im considering options.

1. Swap the existing carbs for a set of dual Empi 40mm HPMF IDF (about $750 AUD here for the kit from sherryberg off Amazon). Yes, Ive heard quality issues, but dual webers are unobtainable here and Im not willing to spend more than $1k on carbs. https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B09J2D1SD4/?coliid=I2..._lig_dp_it

2. Look at Fitech or Holley Sniper EFI. Estimates are about $2k AUD here for all the kit needed and DIY type install. Tuning could be difficult here in Australia though and reading they arent really suited for aircooled motors, i.e. water temp sensor and mainly for V8 or larger capacity engines.

3. Subaru engine swap. This is currently the winning option in my head. Plenty of Outbacks and Imprezas here for sub $4k.

With the Subaru swap, I was leading towards the EJ25 but not sure how well the existing swingarm transaxle will handle this power (not looking for outright speed or hard driving). Should I aim more for a smaller capacity EJ20 or EJ22 instead?

Working through the research of parts here, seems radiator mounting and wiring would be the most difficult to me. Busaru, RJES and a few other sites have lots of useful info it seems. Front mount looks to be complex piping wise, but I have room up there. Thinking with the buggy I might do side mount instead with some ducting, seems to be decent room inside the guards.[/url]

[joemama]

Nice looking buggy, very clean. So you are enjoying the experience, but have a flat spot off idle. Dont want to deal with tuning a center mount carb, or figuring our how to add heat risers to your manifold, but are willing to go down the Subaru swap rabbit hole? You realize that will be vastly more complicated and expensive than dealing with what you currently have, and will probably leave you without a buggy to drive for a couple of years? Its your buggy, but if you are enjoying it, why not do a little work and keep enjoying it. Could be as simple as setting the timing for total advance, adjusting your accelerator pump, finding the right jetting. Maybe a picture of the manifold and exhaust to see if you can add heat.

[Tvättbjörn]

[MattisRattis]

[oprn]

I understand your frustrating with the present drivability, but - an engine conversion is a very extreme solution to a simple problem. I would have to agree with the previous posters. If adding heat to the present system is too daunting then a complete Subaru conversion with all it's tuning, cooling system and wiring issues is going to leave you with a disassembled project to trip over for years to come.

If you are truly happy with how the Buggy runs except for the drivability issues, then just fix that. I would say that 90% of your problem is the lack of manifold heat. A carb rebuild will likely accomplish nothing. Fuel pressure needs checking for sure, that would be my first step. My second would be to find a good stock carb, intake and matching distributor. Adding heat from your present header is simple and easy. Those electric heaters you talked about would be like putting a band aid on a broken leg in my view. Totally inadequate.

If you are really so dead set against fixing the manifold heat then buy the dual carbs but be prepared to do some tuning. They are not plug and play!

Any center mounted throttle body injection will likely need manifold heat too. Port injection will not.

I love that Buggy by the way, especially the color!

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We had the stone age, the bronze age, the industrial age and now we are in the age of mass deception and mind control for corporate profit. (The mass media age)

[cbeck]

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My cut in half and rebuild thread
www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=647779

[Letterman7]

009's have a flat spot right off idle - it's a well documented "problem". Swap it for a 019 and you will eliminate that issue. Quite a few 019/010 distributors for sale in the classifieds fully restored. Start there then decide if you want to go to the dual carbs. Doing that doubles your tuning issues

Purchase your dual kits from a known retailer, like Pierce Manifolds. There is no reason they won't ship to Australia. And you can put a single 40 IDA in the middle.... may not clear your bodywork though.

[Q-Dog]

I would check the fuel pressure first. Some new fuel pumps put out way too much pressure, which could surely explain the black smoke (possibly flooding) at idle. You could then check float level in the carb if the fuel pressure is good.
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Brian

'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle

[MattisRattis]

Thanks for the continued feedback here, giving me some good insights.

Thinking I will try the following first here:

New distributor to replace the 009 that has known "off-idle" flat spot issues (COMPU-FIRE 11100-B DIS-IX or Magnaspark II kit - can't seem to find an 019 supplier locally over here in Perth, Australia).

Check the fuel pressure, the pump looks new, perhaps pushing too much pressure into the system.

Potentially swap out the intake manifold and exhaust for something with the heat risers. After pricing that though ($260 for the intake manifold, $500 for the exhaust) it seems to be about the same as an EMPI 40mm dual carb setup, so might go down that route instead.

I'll pull down the existing carb too, did note some signs of fuel leakage around the accelerator pump on the outside.

[MrGoodtunes]

If you go the dual carbs route, then you can stick with 009 distributor 'cuz duals usually don't have enough vacuum. I have dual brosol 32mm carbs with 009, and I love the way this runs in my 1600dp daily driver kitcar; no flat spot, good low RPM torque, but limited upper end with nearly stock exhaust. BTW your buggy's color and smooth flowing curves look soo goood !!

[MattisRattis]

[MrGoodtunes]

[MattisRattis]

[joemama]

Be aware that regardles of what carburetor you use, the 009 distributor is timed by total advance, not at idle. You want your total advance at no more than 32 degrees, maybe 30, to be safe. If the timing is not set this way, that could be part of your flat spot. I have used a Brazilian 009 with a single weber 40 idf, dual 40 idf, and a single Zenith 32. Its worked great with all of the above.

[MattisRattis]

Had some time to give the buggy a bit of a better look over.

Twin carbs seems like it's going to be a challenge with the rear cradle barwork mine has on it, the carbs are going to hit those or at the best the filters are. Also going to make a subaru swap difficult without removing the whole rear cradle barwork as it also tucks around and under the engine. That EFI option is looking better by the day

You can also see in the pic that the fuel filter has quite a bit of debris in it (looks like blue sealant), perhaps from someone re-sealing the fuel sender inspection cap (the PO mentioned he had replaced the sender recently). I'll swap that out.

Here's my distributor, about to go research which model 009 it is (Edit: googled around and seems its one of the later model German built models so thats sounding positive):

Here's the Weber 40 DCNF, can see some slight fuel residue around the accelerator pump (doesn't seem too bad):

So I think from here I need to focus on the ignition system/timing and see if I can get this component buttoned down first. Along with also getting the fuel filter replaced and the fuel pressure checked.

[oprn]

My twin Webers are a tight fit too under the Buggy body and very little service can be done to them without taking them off. It's a total pain. Even servicing the air cleaners requires them to come off. Then the carbs have to be re-synced every time!

Again - any FI that adds fuel at the throttle body and is located where your carb is now is going to have the same issues you have now. I would suggest looking into the FI from a Mexican Beetle. At least use the intake manifolds that have the injectors at the head.
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We had the stone age, the bronze age, the industrial age and now we are in the age of mass deception and mind control for corporate profit. (The mass media age)

[Letterman7]

I've only run DCNF's in pairs. It's pretty rare to see just a single on a center mount. And maybe that's the issue. Are you sure it's a DCNF and nor a DFEV or something similar? DCNF's don't like long runners, which may be (if it is one) that it's loading up at idle. Maybe investigate a different carburetor meant for stock-ish engines. 40's may be too big for the motor - step it down to a 36DFEV or DFAV and see what you get.

[MattisRattis]

[oprn]

I am not sure that a cross bar like that would serve any real useful purpose.
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We had the stone age, the bronze age, the industrial age and now we are in the age of mass deception and mind control for corporate profit. (The mass media age)

[MattisRattis]