A pilar and heater channel replacement procedure

[Luftgekült]

Hi
What is the course if action in this case?
I mean, what is right the order if I want to replace inner an outer a pilar, wheel well and hinge plate and also paint inside and fit the heater paper tube inside the a pillar.

_________________
'71 VW 1302 1300cc in progress....
'72 VW 1302S 2109cc
'84 Passat Variant GL 1.6TD

[VW_Jimbo]

If it were me doing it, I would…..

Get some angle iron tack welded to the interior side. 1 across the lower opening from A to B. Then one from the upper hinge point to the lowest possible point at the B pillar.

I would then get an A pillar lower body assembly and fit it into the body. Hang the door and reposition everything until the door gaps were correct. When the gaps are correct, tack weld in the lower hinge/post assembly. Then be sure the door works.

If it does, tack weld in as much steel as you can at the front side on the A pillar to heater channel. Check door figment. Remove the angle iron and check door fit. Adjust as needed. Then start welding in the A pillar repair. Check the door fit often, as this area is easily changed during work.

Good luck!
_________________
Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[Luftgekült]

Hi Jimbo
Thanks for your help.
What about the paper tube? Looks dificult to guide once everything is welded, but inserting it before welding makes painting the inside of the pilar almost imposible.
This section of my car was previously repaired at some point but since it wasn't painted or protected it rusted again. I don't want that happens again.
_________________
'71 VW 1302 1300cc in progress....
'72 VW 1302S 2109cc
'84 Passat Variant GL 1.6TD

[clarkster75]

You're on the right road with the last post.
Some possibilities.
I think there is tunnel/channel sealer from Eastwood. It has a long hose and you pull it (up) and the stuff sprays 360 to seal the internal area, after you're done welding.
No one said you had to use paper again.
I was thinking of cutting and fabricating a small panel on the interior (hidden under the carpet) where you could access the connection between the paper tube and metal fitting. All sorts of stuff could fall down there, and you could check the tube/fitting connection. Just a thought. And check for rust.... later on.
I am going to try to find plastic tubing...just WAY more durable than that paper.
On your last weld you could shield the tubing with fiberglass on that side, and maybe have a string tied to the fiberglass if you wanted to pull up/out when the welds were done. Just a thought. Keep welding... good work too!

[bomberbob]

- The sealer is referred to as cavity wax. It is available from others besides Eastwood. I think I bought mine from KBS.
- I did not use paper tubing for defrost ducting, I used flexible stainless steel.
_________________
1968 Beetle (storage)
1990 Jetta GLI megasquirted, burning E85 (currently in heavy maintenance)
2004 Jetta turbo GLI
Marion, Iowa

[VW_Jimbo]

[vwsplitman]

Ive used flexible muffler tubing for the heater channel to window vent connection. A couple of tack welds at the bottom and you will never have to worry about it rotting out or mice chewing a hole in it. Try to get a piece the same diameter as the outlet tube on the channel.