Replacing 03 thermostat/housings, H2O pump, crossover--tutorial

[bcolins]

I've searched here and on youtube and have only found a video on the water pump replacement. Is there a tutorial on the crossover pipe, thermostat and housings somewhere? Preventative maintenance I want to do before heading out this summer.

[Whridlsoncestood]

It’s on my list too. Tstat stuck open on mine. Blocked off radiation with cardboard for the winter. Kept temps around 180/190. It’s not too bad in summer with cardboard out. Usually gets to temp fine if it’s 60 or higher.

It’s basically the same as the golf vr6. Only difference is I think t stay housingnis a little harder to get to but the crack pipe is easier to access with how the engine is turned at an angle to shoehorn it into the Eurovan bay.

I’m in the process of building a garage with a lift so I’m trying to hold out on this project until the garage is up and make my life that much easier.
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2001 EV MV

[gesoffen]

@bcolins: I don't know of a itemized DIY but there are posts here and at VW Vortex that you can piece together for all the necessary info. A few words to the wise:
1) Consider replacing the temp sensors/orings in the tstat housing, if they haven't been replaced in recent memory (e.g. 5 years or so). These are reachable after the fact so not critical, though it does require a partial coolant drain to swap them out.
2) Check the oil cooler lines - they are frequently soft. Consider replacing them if so. The stock lines are NLA but there are other VW parts that are usable as a replacement.
3) Upon reinstalling the cross over pipe, use a bit of lubricant (valve lube, vaseline or similar) to keep the o-ring from getting damaged. Also, make sure the recepticle at he water pump end is clean (scotch brite pad or similar).
4) If water pump is crusty, it may need persuasion to remove.
5) I suggest pressure or vacuum testing the cooling system when complete to locate any leaks prior to refill. The vacuum system is also very helpful to refill as it avoids the air pocket in the heater core.

@ Whridlsoncestood: If you haven't already, troubleshoot the following:
a) the vacuum signal from the brake booster, through the vacuum solenoid (directly below the brake booster) to the heater diverter valve.
b) the heater diverter valve itself
c) The after run coolant circulation pump

Issues with anyone of those items will result in symptoms similar to a stuck tstat, namely difficulty in reaching operating temp and little/no heat, especially noticeable in cool/cold weather.

[Whridlsoncestood]

Thanks for the pointers. I did replace the after run pump already. It was shorting out fuse and ultimately what was causing the ac system to be non functioning when I bought the van a year and a half ago.

I’ve meant to look into the other two vacuum possible points of failure but haven’t had the time yet.
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2001 EV MV

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I just did this.
I ended up taking the front of the bus off

Below are steps found somewhere on this site

A few steps to get you going (off the top of my head):

1. Remove the grille
2. Remove the corner lights
3. Remove the big piece of bodywork below the grille.
4. Remove the headlights.
5. Remove the screws and bolts, unplug fog lights on the bumper cover.
6. Pull off the bumper cover.
7. Remove the bottom pan.
8. Remove unplug fan resistors, take off all of the
wiring clips unattach emissions fan motor.
9. Drain coolant.
10.Unbolt top of radiator and remove hoses, expansion tank and wires
for fans and fan switch.
11 Remove radiator (pull up on it)
12. Remove tow hook extension.
13 Remove bumper.

The bumper was not to bad getting off

I relplaced the the oil cooler hoses, GoWesty has them


https://gowesty.com/collections/euro-van-mechanical/products/oil-cooler-to-engine-block-hose

https://gowesty.com/collections/euro-van-mechanical/products/oil-cooler-to-water-pipe-hose

The water pump was not bad, draw a picture of the v-belt for reinstall.
Getting the thermostat off is a challenge as the torx screws were a bit soft and would strip, you can get the front 2 off with vice grips if they don't want to come off gracefully, I ended up breaking the old tstat off and removing the third screw after removal of tstat. I used a long torx screw #5 to reinstall.
Getting the crack pipe out took some back and forth work put it will eventually come out. Installing the new one with new gaskets that were lubed was fairly easy. I tried to replacing any bulging hoses with similar ones from the local flaps.
I replaced the heater control valve, and any vacuum line connections that seemed soft. This took me 2 - 3 weeks as I was not in much of a rush and rust proofed and tread rust on parts removed and exposed.

the link below has a good view of the coolant connections and flow

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695947
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2001 eurovn weekender 207k fresh batteries

[gesoffen]

[Whridlsoncestood]

[gesoffen]

1J0819809 Audi VW Heater Valve

[Whridlsoncestood]