Wiring glowshift gauges in 1982 diesel van

[Zephyr_shreds]

I got the 3 in 1 gauge! It is one gauge that reads egt, boost, and temp.
I am using a circuit tester to figure out what wires to splice into on the fuse panel. I use the word “Live” a lot in this post. Live= light turns on in the circuit tester when I touch the fuse.

The glowshift gauge power wiring harness directions has 3 wires to splice.
1. a constant 12 volt power source with key off.
2. An ignition switched(key on) 12 volt power source that does not have power with the key off,, ( having trouble finding what fuse to splice into for this 2nd wire)
3. and then one more splice into the headlight switch power or headlight fuse for dimming when the headlights turn on.

Out of the 12 fuses with the key off, 1-6 and 10-12 are live and the rest are not.
With key on 1-6 are live and the rest are not.
This means only 10-12 switch off when key is on, therefore I do not know where to splice the 2nd wire.

1.) what’s the best, safest way to splice into the fuse box, would expandable circuits work? What about using connecting female spade connecters to the top and bottom of the fuse holders then I don’t have to cut and splice into wires?

2.)can I splice into the headlight switch or headlight fuse for the gauge to dim? How do I do that.

3.) Are the 1982 diesel vanagon fuse box fuses all suppose to be live
when the key is on and headlight switch on?

With the key off and the headlight switch on, 1-2 are not live and the rest match with the key off. What does this mean?

Ps. I’ve been having very dim headlights and blinkers, they barley work. Maybe something is horribly wrong and I can’t install the gauge just yet.. any help is much appreciated



Ps. I feel like the kid at school who didn’t do his homework and is asking for all the answers. I’m sorry. But please help if you can. I can’t find better info anywhere else besides the samba. You guys I can’t thank enough for all the help and time people have given me. I am truly grateful.

[AndyBees]

You really need a Bentley Manual. The Wiring Schematics (diagrams) are fairly easy to understand. Make a copy of the pages you are doing research. Use those copied pages to make notes with a pencil.

Next, you need a Multi-meter to check circuits. With the Multi-meter you can test circuits for Voltage when the ignition is Off and On.

You need to find the accessories wire that illuminates the various things when the lights are On. Splice into it for your new gauges' internal lighting.

The Dim Headlights is likely related to bad grounding. On the left side of the dash, above the fuse panel (sort of high up) is a cluster star (my term) where numerous ground wires are plugged on. That ground series includes the head lights. Maybe there has been some water leaking on it. Maybe it has naturally corroded as it is old.

It is very important that you locate the EGT probe in a good place. Seems there is a photo in my Gallery that shows where I drilled and tapped for the EGT probe.

What engine does your Vanagon have?

I am sure others will chime-in.
_________________
'84 Vanagon Tin-top, ALH TDI. 1989 Tin-top
1983 Air-cool, 225k miles, 180k miles mine. Seven trips to Alaska from 1986 thru 2003.

[Zephyr_shreds]

It’s a 1.9 1y. I have a Bentley but the wire diagrams are like super gnarley. Can I see pictures of how you spliced your gauge wires in the fuse panel?

The grounds are clean and sanded down. That old star ground is no longer in use. Looks like an old rusty beer cap! Headlights are still dim. For some reason they brighten up a lot when I pull the ebrake.

I’m super curious why I don’t have any ignition switched fuses. I’d love to learn electricity diagrams. Where should I start? Scared this thread will be aborted like my last one. Guess I ask too many questions.

[Gnarlodious]

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=593363

I would caution you when installing the Glowshift oil temperature sensor in the hole in the filter mount. The length of the sensor will cause it to bottom out and slowly break, which then increasingly leaks oil over time. Measure the clearance carefully and use a good thick crush washer, I think I used two.
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Vanagon ’83 diesel AAZ w/Giles injection, 5spd 4.57R&P+TBD and a '78 diesel Rabbit

[AndyBees]

When I was doing the ALH TDI engine conversion, I installed the Jetta Cluster as well as several gauges. I never took any photos of the wiring.

The Wiring Schematics in the Bentley for a Vanagon are not half as complicated as those in the Bentley for a Jetta. Gernerally, each page has the Color Codes for the individual wires and it is consistent throughout the diagrams. Also, each circuit will have the color code on one end of the wire. Striped wires look different than solid colored wires in the diagrams.

If you copy the diagrams as I suggested, it will make it so much easier as you begin to study them.

I used various colors of high-lighters to help with deciphering the diagrams. Example: I would lightly hi-light a circuit from a switch to its destiny and if it continued onto another page, I followed it.

The Vanagon Cluster diagram is on Page 97.56. Going across the page just above the Cluster is the X Contact circuit. It goes from the Ignition Switch (top left) to the Light Switch (right side, labeled as Lite SW). Black is the majority color, so, Yellow will be a stripe. That circuit is Hot only when the Ignition is On. Keep in mind, that circuit goes down the steering column and thru the maze of wiring to the back of the Light Switch. Note: X Circuits are only Hot with the Ignition On.

Anyway, with that example, now look at the Light Switch diagram. To the right is a Circuit going off to the right. It is labeled with a small g. It goes off the page to the next page (97.57). On the next page you can see that Circuit g goes down to the Instrument Panel Lite (labeled as INSTR PNL LITE). Circuit g is labeled as Gray/Blue (GY/BL). So, on the plug at the back of the Light Switch, find that Gray/Blue wire .............. you can use it to illuminate the gauges when you turn On the head lights.

Work with one circuit at a time. Don't let the maze of the Diagrams intimidate you. Look at them on an individual basis. Mark them as I suggested above. Put those pages in a ring-binder for future reference ... that's how I did it. I can go back to my notes and in just a few minutes I have an understanding of what I did 10 years ago in 2012.

Note: Once you establish a single splice to tap the current for background lighting for your gauges, you can use that wire for all of them ... 2 or 3 or more....... not a problem. Also, keep in mind, that circuit, Ignition Switch to the Light Switch to the Instrument Lights, is Not Fused ......... thus, always be careful to not short it out.

I hope this gets you off to a good start.
_________________
'84 Vanagon Tin-top, ALH TDI. 1989 Tin-top
1983 Air-cool, 225k miles, 180k miles mine. Seven trips to Alaska from 1986 thru 2003.

[crazyvwvanman]

I suggest you focus on the big things first.
Extra gauges are completely unnecessary compared to headlights and signals.
Get the important stuff working reliably first, like those and your induction changes.

Mark

[dhaavers]

x2

PS: Everything you need to know: https://f01.justanswer.com/MASTEROFMASTERS/1cc7e23c-026b-48b6-8dc5-d556d0f55eb4_VW_wiring.qxd.pdf

- Dave
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86 White Wolfsburg Westy Weekender
"The WonderVan"
<EDITED TO PROTECT INNOCENT PIXELS>

[Zephyr_shreds]

That wiring book is good knowledge. Thank you