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Trying to locate cold start valve to buy
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2022 3:44 pm    Post subject: Re: Trying to locate cold start valve to buy Reply with quote

there you go ray, trying to deflect on the fact you tore up a perfectly good diaphragm you were loaned to see if you could duplicate it. I am not the one that tore it up. You were. swearing at me won't fix your fuck up.
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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2022 4:28 pm    Post subject: Re: Trying to locate cold start valve to buy Reply with quote

And what does any of that have to do with cold start valves?....anything at all? Crickets?

What does an alternate cold start valve source have to do with engine conversions?...anything?...anything at all?

What does any of that...have to do with the EGR diaphragm? Anything?...anything at all?

What does teh cold start valve question have to do with me making anything? Mmmm....I'm betting not a damn thing

Since you want to be a dick...and are making this thread your ongoing referendum about the EGR diaphragm and molding issues....for those who want to know what the status was in late November/December when the silicone "life'd" out and locked up....

Here is the 412 ball joint mold from that session

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This was just a superb mold in detail (still is)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This was what it could make....but....instead of this silicone having a 45 minute pot life...it locked up in five minutes flat.

I will give some of those who want to mold some free hard won and expensive knowledge
When using a "Tin catalyzed" silicone (or any tin catalyzed elastomer).....over time the catalyst oxidizes.
It loses moisture which gets bound into crystals and becomes 2X the strength. Add to that...past 6 months shelf life, the viscosity can double even when held under vacuum...of the resin. While its still functional....it cannot mix as well ...especially with excessive catalyst.

You can see from the interior picture that it was crawling up both walls of the mold under pressure (it was a vacuum and pressure mold)....and it just locked up.

Giving free information like that is about as charitable as I feel like being today.

The other part of which I have a single mold ready to go...is for the bus ball joint boot.

Yes...I bothered to buy a bus ball joint with a pleated boot...which I found makes a stronger (less prone to splitting) joint if I fill that groove so it will have a wall section of nearly 6 mm at that joint.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


So Steve...I will get the EGR diaphragms molded and get them out the door to the person who loaned me the vale. I will probably mold a handful and send them to him. He can do what he wants with them.

Maybe he will even sell you one! Then you can figure out how to mold them yourself now that you have a new one! ...because I am damn sure not giving you one now with your shitty attitude. .....and maybe he will be happy to give you his old diaphragm that I molded which was a damn sight better than what you sent me. But thats up to him.

Have a nice day man! I hope you get your meds balanced. Ray
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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2022 4:48 pm    Post subject: Re: Trying to locate cold start valve to buy Reply with quote

I know this is off the original topic, but Ray, I really appreciate somebody like you taking the time to try and re-mold these parts. I know how fickle working with casting elastomeric resins can be, and successfully cloning an old, injection molded part is on another level. Vastly above my skill level, that's for sure.


I wouldn't take much stock in the claims of SGKent as far as parts availability goes, I firmly believe these cold start valves, or similar ones that will work with minor modification will be available pretty much until gasoline cars no longer exist on our roads. The L-Jet system was used on such a wide range of vehicles, the parts will be commodity items for the foreseeable future.

The reason the pass through CSV's for our busses became NLA is because they were a very specific part, designed only for a revision of a vehicle which only saw 5 years of production. As opposed to something like the model for the Volvo, which they produced nearly 3 million of over the span of 20 years.

However, if SGKent wants to give me $3500 for my old non-leaking passthrough CSV, I will gladly print up a shipping label.
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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2022 4:56 pm    Post subject: Re: Trying to locate cold start valve to buy Reply with quote

Cap10323 wrote:
I know this is off the original topic, but Ray, I really appreciate somebody like you taking the time to try and re-mold these parts. I know how fickle working with casting elastomeric resins can be, and successfully cloning an old, injection molded part is on another level. Vastly above my skill level, that's for sure.


I wouldn't take much stock in the claims of SGKent as far as parts availability goes, I firmly believe these cold start valves, or similar ones that will work with minor modification will be available pretty much until gasoline cars no longer exist on our roads. The L-Jet system was used on such a wide range of vehicles, the parts will be commodity items for the foreseeable future.

The reason the pass through CSV's for our busses became NLA is because they were a very specific part, designed only for a revision of a vehicle which only saw 5 years of production. As opposed to something like the model for the Volvo, which they produced nearly 3 million of over the span of 20 years.

However, if SGKent wants to give me $3500 for my old non-leaking passthrough CSV, I will gladly print up a shipping label.


Yes...the pass through valve simplified plumbing. A "version" of it but with regular female connectors was also used on Porsche 914, VW type 3 and 411/412.

Its about being able to drive these cars. I came to the conclusion quite a while ago that at some point in time ...unless you are building a concors hanger queen to sell at Barretts.....for many pieces you need ....you might have to settle for something that functions perfectly, fits with little modification but is from a totally different car.

Past a certain era...mostly past OBD-1....many if not most cars went to better pulsewidth control and a variable electronic idle air control valve to do away with the cold start valve. But until that point....maybe early 2000's....virtually all Japanese and European cars had one.

Except for a few feeding something like a Toyota V* or a Lexus 6 cylinder....I would say more than half could be installed in a type 4 engine with just a simple Tee fitting and some imagination. Ray
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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2022 5:10 pm    Post subject: Re: Trying to locate cold start valve to buy Reply with quote

waste of my time.
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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2022 5:52 pm    Post subject: Re: Trying to locate cold start valve to buy Reply with quote

By the time I will no longer be able to find an L-Jet compatible CSV, I will have converted my Bus to electric power. Which will become the clear choice for many older vehicles, as electric driveline components replace Fuel Injection components as inexpensive commodity items.


Raygreenwood wrote:

Its about being able to drive these cars. I came to the conclusion quite a while ago that at some point in time ...unless you are building a concors hanger queen to sell at Barretts.....for many pieces you need ....you might have to settle for something that functions perfectly, fits with little modification but is from a totally different car.


Since I am in engineering/IT , this has always been my approach. Cars are just collections of systems, and are mostly made up of commodity component parts manufactured by 2nd party suppliers for the auto maker. You'd be surprised how few parts a company like Toyota actually makes themselves in house. Once you understand that, you can just start looking for a component that meets the specifications required to do whatever [THING] you need it to do, not a "Mitsubishi P/N 42069"


Also, SGKent, why do you edit your replies to make yourself seem less argumentative and remove name calling/swearing? It does not save face, it's a bad look.
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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2022 8:02 pm    Post subject: Re: Trying to locate cold start valve to buy Reply with quote

Cap10323 said:

Quote:

You'd be surprised how few parts a company like Toyota actually makes themselves in house. Once you understand that, you can just start looking for a component that meets the specifications required to do whatever [THING] you need it to do, not a "Mitsubishi P/N 42069"


Oh man.....quite true! The vast majority of electrical components...fuel injection, wiper lever units, wiper motors, generator/alternator/starter...relays...switches....are not and have not been made by VW, Audi, Mercedes, BMW etc. etc.

Same goes for brake parts, cylinders, ball joints and tie rod ends.....the list goes on.

A fair portion of my work and clients are automotive mfg.

While I would love to have all of the exact stock parts (especially if they are original VW or dealer equipment because the quality was high).....if at some point either you cannot get them at all....or....if teh cost is high enough....its just not worth it to pay that price.

Others would say not true......but its like this for me....and more importantly for the vehicles I work on....almost strictly 411 and 412...most of which the parts if not unobtanium...are NOS and $$$.

I have a list of far too unique many parts that my restoration requires that cost well over $100 or $200 or even as noted are not available at any price.

Little mechanical parts under the hood like a cold start valve....or brake hardware.....I will not waste $$$...when I can get a fully functional equivalent that no one will ever see...for $$...that allows me to drive and spend $$$ on truly unique parts like fenders or window gaskets.

Its a priorities thing. Its not like I will have to hack the plenum up to install an aftermarket cold start valve. I can always go back to stock if they become available.

Ray
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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2022 2:11 am    Post subject: Re: Trying to locate cold start valve to buy Reply with quote

The whole cold start injector is a ridiculous engineering hack when you think of it. Why not just program the injectors to send in more fuel based on a good ECT sensor in code in the ECU ? Did it really take them another 10 years to figure this out?

Ray, my condolences and take care of you/family first, we will be here when you can get back.
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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2022 6:47 am    Post subject: Re: Trying to locate cold start valve to buy Reply with quote

Has anyone thought through making the CSV all electronic? If this generation of FI batch fires , you could make a simple trigger box which doubles the length of the injector pulse for the first 45 seconds of engine running if the coolant temperature meets the cold condition

I’m using double pulse length as I happen to know my p80s use 5 usec on cold start and ramp down to 2 usec in a minute or so

I could build that box for about $10s in parts , so $699 samba retail
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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2022 7:53 am    Post subject: Re: Trying to locate cold start valve to buy Reply with quote

Abscate wrote:
Has anyone thought through making the CSV all electronic? If this generation of FI batch fires , you could make a simple trigger box which doubles the length of the injector pulse for the first 45 seconds of engine running if the coolant temperature meets the cold condition

I’m using double pulse length as I happen to know my p80s use 5 usec on cold start and ramp down to 2 usec in a minute or so

I could build that box for about $10s in parts , so $699 samba retail


Yes!

And in response to this post and your last one.....

That’s actually a good question/point/observation! I actually think that they probably knew how to do this better in the beginning….but the whole system was an afterthought.

Not to stray too far from the topic but I think this discussion is relevant….especially if…you are one of those that cannot find a stock CSV or one that works either now or sometime in the future…knowing what else you “could” do may help. Anyway, I am at a client waiting for paint to dry….so…
So before L-jet injection (almost before anything electronically injected)..…was D-jet. It originally did not come with a CSV.

I “think” I know why they did this. Its speculation on my part but the first D-jet used a combination of a pressure switch for full throttle enrichment and the TS-2 and TS-1 and with the “on/off” simplicity of the original 2 wire throttle valve switch…I think that in some cases they thought they had enough start up enrichment. It proved not to be enough so they dealer had stand alone CSV kits they would install. They contained the pass-through CSV, a thermo-time switch and a harness. Worked fine…..fine enough…..and simply drilling three holes, adding a gasket and plugging in two wires….even a monkey could install it.

Within a year of two, D-jet came with CVS on all models, wired and plumbed in from the factory.
So…..from the beginning the CSV system was an afterthought right? Plumbing it with just the CSV and a simple temperature switch required virtually no effort or $ or re-training the dealer network because it was really the same system just wired in from the factory and relied on the AAR and throttle to get the air mix …”right enough” to start. Of course, as everyone knows there were tweaks through the years to TS-2 range and other items in the ECU to help this work smoother.

I think they stayed with the "CSV" format...out of a combination of wanting to save money, not have to retrain a dealer network ...and maybe pure laziness...as it worked...and only had to work for about 5 minutes.

So, since the AAR was really just an early, crude idle air controller…they already had a source of the extra air required at cold start…and… as an in between/interim thing, they could have simply stayed with the CSV and wired it to a simple timer relay…separate from the ECU….with an adjusting dial. Lots of ways to do this.

Or to your point….one would think that they could have done this with either the addition of a simple timer circuit to the ECU board that allowed a wider range of pulsewidth to the four main injectors only when the TS-2 and/or TS-1 inputs were above X ohms. Maybe…maybe not.

In reality…another way to do this….knowing WHAT the CSV actually is….its just a fifth injector right? Why not just plumb in an actual 5th injector where the cold start valve is. One just like the other four…same part #. Wire it to injector main circuit and run its ground through the thermo-time switch. When you start in cold weather you have all five injectors firing as you try to start. All the same pulsewidth, all the same pressure and the fifth injector only sprays for the short interval that the TTS allows.

That would be the same thing as a CSV but with better control resolution, they would not need a separate part #.

And, that last sentence is WHY I think this this whole diatribe is relevant to this thread….because you actually CAN simply use a regular injector in place of a CSV. It would not be that hard to make a bracket to mount it. And…its already been done. It was done on some of the CIS systems by Saab and others.

So if by some crazy chance we all run out of CSV’s we can find ….you could just make one from an injector. Its one of those little things on my whiteboard list that I keep meaning to do when I have a fuel loop and pump rigged up for testing something. That is to test what 20 seconds of CSV injecting gives for volume vs an actual injector.

I don’t think we will run out of CSV’s…either stock or from another vehicle….but we may easily reach a point where paying $$$ for a simple CSV injector is not worth it.

Yes...it could be done exactly as you suggest or by any of these ways. I fully agree. When you look up CSV parts not only for VW of this era but Mercedes, BMW etc....I see common costs for NOS running $200, $300 and even north of $400. Its stupid. Its just an injector. I bet you could do a lot more for your bus for $400 than buying a CSV you can make from scraps.
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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2022 7:54 am    Post subject: Re: Trying to locate cold start valve to buy Reply with quote

Abscate wrote:
The whole cold start injector is a ridiculous engineering hack when you think of it. Why not just program the injectors to send in more fuel based on a good ECT sensor in code in the ECU ? Did it really take them another 10 years to figure this out?

Ray, my condolences and take care of you/family first, we will be here when you can get back.


Because the "EFI" in these vehicles is not modern, digital EFI. It is, for all intents and purposes just "electric fuel distribution".

The ECU in one of these vehicles is absurdly simple, AFAIK, it's not even really a "computer" so to speak, there are no microprocessors, no ROMs to store code, no fuel trim maps, live data, etc.

It is, like many very primitive ECU's, just a series of what are essentially variable analog pulse generation circuits, of which the pulse frequency and length can be modified through a couple of very basic inputs.

There is no feedback as to the running condition of the engine, the ECU is simply not electrically complex enough for that, which is why there is no 02 sensor, etc. AFAIK, the 79 bus with an 02 sensor has a completely different ECU with 'real' logic in it.


When you realize this, the use of the cold start injector makes perfect sense. All you need is the signal from the double relay, and the one signal from the engine TS/2 sensor. Boom, when Pin 13 on the ECU shows the engine is cold, and Pin 4 detects a start signal. Dump tons of gasoline into the intake and the engine will start right up even when it's freezing cold outside.

It's absolutely archaic by modern standards, a $9 Arduino microcontroller could run circles around the ECU of a bus from a processing power standpoint, and even using an Arduino as the ECU (which is doable), you would easily be able to program a different fuel map for startup which would eliminate the need for a CSV.

Anyway, Back to L-Jet. It's STILL substantially more reliable than a carburetor, and the vehicle starts instantly in the cold, and performs better than a carburetor in most driving/temperature/load conditions. Which is exactly what Bosch designed it for, and for that, it works perfectly fine.

Also, that's why this stuff is still functioning flawlessly, albeit in it's limited, archaic way, over 40 years later. My bus' FI is all factory parts with the exception of the CSV. That's very impressive, and I credit a lot of that longevity to the extreme simplicity of the design.


Also, Ray. Extending my condolences as well. It's always hard to lose someone, but especially a parent, even if they are in poor health and advanced age.

BTW I am also interested in purchasing a diaphragm, whenever you get settled and back into it with a clear head to start working on them again.
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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2022 10:16 am    Post subject: Re: Trying to locate cold start valve to buy Reply with quote

it is just a fuel injector that sends a specified amount of gasoline in so many seconds. All that is needed is the injector, working voltage and approximate resistance, ability to hook up fuel lines, and working pressure range. My guess is that due to the current prices of them, someone will make a universal one that works on all the L-jet systems. The issue with alternatives now is that the depth of the injector area is designed to sit flush with the inside of the plenum/manifold. Using a longer one creates a shadow and turbulence inside a plenum/manifold that could affect airflow to one of the cylinders. The same kind of thing happens if someone with a working EGR does not keep the ports in the EGR tube open. The oxygen flow to one or more cylinders is affected.

Using a worn out one can be dangerous because the crimps and internal seal weaken, which can allow a fire. We've lost several buses on this forum that way.

Frankly most folks just want a bus to play with for a while until they get tired of it and move on. They just want something that will fit in there. Anyone here for a long time who actually owns a bus knows how many bus owners come and go on this site as they find a bus in a garage or field, fix and enjoy the experience a while, sell it and move on.

Those who get their asses chapped, because someone here sees their "work-arounds" as shade tree, needs to be sure they join a forum with their social clones cause this isn't the place. Amazes me that the same person who does a shade tree work-around then brags to their friends they have a "Porsche" engine in their bus casually failing to mention it is full of worn out or Volvo parts. The folks who took the time to find VW factory parts and get it right understand how much time they have in their buses and what they are worth.

I have a new Bosch CSV that I will sell someday, perhaps even give away because I do not need the money, however it won't be to some jackass that insults me then gets his ass chapped when I go tit for tat.
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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2022 11:25 am    Post subject: Re: Trying to locate cold start valve to buy Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:

Those who get their asses chapped, because someone here sees their "work-arounds" as shade tree, needs to be sure they join a forum with their social clones cause this isn't the place. Amazes me that the same person who does a shade tree work-around then brags to their friends they have a "Porsche" engine in their bus casually failing to mention it is full of worn out or Volvo parts. The folks who took the time to find VW factory parts and get it right understand how much time they have in their buses and what they are worth.


Ridiculous take, anybody who watches the VW Bus, Van, and Camper market knows that the busses that fetch the most money are not just the busses that look the best and are the most original, short of true concours condition low milage collector examples.

The busses that are worth the most money are the busses that are turn-key, daily driver vehicles with the vast majority of "pattern failure" parts upgraded. Companies like GoWesty literally run their entire business off of this fact.

A camper that is cosmetically decent, but an absolute rock solid driver will always sell for more than a dolled up basket case, unless you're exclusively targeting whimsical idiots (which to be fair, many are).

If you can virtually eliminate the fire risk from using a 40 year old plastic part, by upgrading it in a totally safe and above-board way, why on earth would you do anything else. My logical brain fails to comprehend the reasoning that using an old, deprecated part is superior just because it is what the vehicle came with from the factory.

I drive a Subaru car, Subaru cars are known to have head gasket problems due to a defect in how Subaru manufactured the head gasket material. When the OEM head gaskets fail, you do not replace them with more defective OEM gaskets, you replace them with a superior aftermarket part, which eliminates the possibility of a second, very expensive repair.

The fact we have wasted nearly two forum pages arguing about this is absolutely asinine. And I firmly believe you are speaking with over-confident ignorance.
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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2022 11:37 am    Post subject: Re: Trying to locate cold start valve to buy Reply with quote

Mateo83 wrote:
WTB bosch 0 280 170 026

There's one on eBay but the seller is super flaky.


hey, mateo. did you ever find a cold-start valve of any kind?
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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2022 12:21 pm    Post subject: Re: Trying to locate cold start valve to buy Reply with quote

Quote:
Because the "EFI" in these vehicles is not modern, digital EFI. It is, for all intents and purposes just "electric fuel distribution".


One could leave this completely as is with an analog pulse doubler with cold temperature enabling. No programming required. I don’t want to insult monkeys. By saying how easy this is because Cornelius may come and find me someday.
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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2022 12:45 pm    Post subject: Re: Trying to locate cold start valve to buy Reply with quote

dodger tom wrote:
Mateo83 wrote:
WTB bosch 0 280 170 026

There's one on eBay but the seller is super flaky.


hey, mateo. did you ever find a cold-start valve of any kind?

Gary offered to sell one but no one showed any interest.
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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2022 1:50 pm    Post subject: Re: Trying to locate cold start valve to buy Reply with quote

Abscate wrote:
Quote:
Because the "EFI" in these vehicles is not modern, digital EFI. It is, for all intents and purposes just "electric fuel distribution".


One could leave this completely as is with an analog pulse doubler with cold temperature enabling. No programming required. I don’t want to insult monkeys. By saying how easy this is because Cornelius may come and find me someday.


Um...thats "Dr. Cornelius" to you....and you may just get "monkey poxed" if he does find you! Laughing

SGKent stated:

Quote:
The issue with alternatives now is that the depth of the injector area is designed to sit flush with the inside of the plenum/manifold. Using a longer one creates a shadow and turbulence inside a plenum/manifold that could affect airflow to one of the cylinders. The same kind of thing happens if someone with a working EGR does not keep the ports in the EGR tube open. The oxygen flow to one or more cylinders is affected.


Mmm. No...not likely. First, not all L-jet or anything jet CSV's sit flush...and itsno more or less a turbulence issue than the TS-1 poking into the manifold which does nothing. I know...because I have bothered to scope the inside of both 1.7L and 1.8L plenums while running during a smoke test.

There is vast turbulence in there from two different sources. The most prevalent is the approximate 4-5" roiling plume twisting up behind the the throttle plate. The second is what looks like an actual "knot" oscillating in teh middle of teh manifold between the runners as the air is twisting and splitting in multiple dimensions several times per second to enter four different runner tubes... while simultaneously canceling cross plenum reversion as intake valves slam shut.

The turbulence and shadow from tiny items like the TS-1 and the CSV...do not even register.

But the more important thing...or ration of BS is....:

Quote:
Those who get their asses chapped, because someone here sees their "work-arounds" as shade tree, needs to be sure they join a forum with their social clones cause this isn't the place. Amazes me that the same person who does a shade tree work-around then brags to their friends they have a "Porsche" engine in their bus casually failing to mention it is full of worn out or Volvo parts. The folks who took the time to find VW factory parts and get it right understand how much time they have in their buses and what they are worth.


The only one who got their ass chapped is YOU. All I did is list some possible actual workable alternatives. Whether one is too stupid or proud to use one if its all you can get....and you would rather sit in your bus in the garage and settle for listening to the stereo instead of driving...man thats up to you.

However what DID chap my ass is the stupidity of ....YOU...and your shitty holier than most attitude and delivery....going totally off topic to rip my ass on a totally different subject and part....which has nothing to do with CSV's....and frankly....the CSV's I suggested ...had no fabrication or exotic or experimental materials involved (like the EGR diaphragms did)....which means your inane comment had absolutely no bearing n ANYTHING in this thread.

But hey if you want to combine the two topics....lets do it like this....you are seeming to say that anyone who des not actually currently own a bus...should have no input. Ok....fair enough.

You also INFER that REAL bus owners should NEVER be using something not made by VW or made for VW in their engines.....right at the end of your quote above......and yet....you are ripping my ass....for not getting your repopped EGR diaphragms to you.

So why are you not just using VW parts for your EGR diaphragm? Oh...yeah...right...right....there aren't any!!!

So when I finish these EGR diaphragms...and IF I decide I should give you one....will you use it? If so...you are just as much of a turd (in your own mind) as anyone else using a "work around" part.

By the way...I never mentioned Volvo parts...but yeah.....several CSV's...most notably from a Volvo 240D...would bolt right up with a tee fitting (same bolt pattern, same plug about 15mm extra nozzle length...which I know because I have two of them....BOSCH 0280170400).

By the way....VW never made ANY cold start valves at all...ever. Pretty much most of them were Bosch, a few OEM dealer replacements were Hella and a few were SWF.
You should probably not be using ANY those right?...because they are not VW.

Whatever....I am starting to join the club that you just do this crap all the time.

Ray
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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2022 2:46 pm    Post subject: Re: Trying to locate cold start valve to buy Reply with quote

I'll put my ability to flow a head, manifold or plenum against your skills any day Ray. My teacher was the guru of air flow in the 70's. Put a fingers over your mouth and try to breathe. Notice any difference?
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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2022 2:54 pm    Post subject: Re: Trying to locate cold start valve to buy Reply with quote

Abscate wrote:
Quote:
Because the "EFI" in these vehicles is not modern, digital EFI. It is, for all intents and purposes just "electric fuel distribution".


One could leave this completely as is with an analog pulse doubler with cold temperature enabling. No programming required. I don’t want to insult monkeys. By saying how easy this is because Cornelius may come and find me someday.


That is a great idea. I might look into working on a design for that.
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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2022 5:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Trying to locate cold start valve to buy Reply with quote

Cap10323 wrote:
Abscate wrote:
Quote:
Because the "EFI" in these vehicles is not modern, digital EFI. It is, for all intents and purposes just "electric fuel distribution".


One could leave this completely as is with an analog pulse doubler with cold temperature enabling. No programming required. I don’t want to insult monkeys. By saying how easy this is because Cornelius may come and find me someday.


That is a great idea. I might look into working on a design for that.

you should. Really. Lots of folks are always looking for an inexpensive solution to a worn out or missing CSV. I'd guess that since functional used ones can be bought off members here for a pretty good price, if you can get it under $40 including postage you'll have some buyers. Beyond that they will tell you that they will find a used one or write a page how to make one. But if it was programmable via blue tooth, and you had an app, that they would pay for. Smile Really.
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