1.6 td CY-JX timing belt snapped. Questions/advice Syncro DOKA

[damagd]

So, I replaced the turbo oil supply line a couple of weeks ago. Drove it a little bit to make sure all was running well before taking to my mechanic this week to dial in the IP. Didn't want to drive it too much, maybe about 30 miles total. The whole time there was a pretty steady leak from the turbo oil return line as well. Parked it for a couple of weeks as I drained the oil and replaced the return line waiting for my IP appointment. Started it up today to take to my mechanic and right away there is a constant steady coolant drip from what looks like the coolant flange on the back of the head, but it also looks like it's leaking from the head gasket right underneath the flange as well. WTH. How could this have happened? It was running fine and I didn't mess with anything after I parked it two weeks ago. I torqued the head bolts with the correct procedure. I was very careful. Should I try and retorque them? The coolant flange, I definitely put a little smear of gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket. Not sure if that has anything to do with the leak. Not sure how I could drive it for 30 miles without a drip of coolant, let it sit for a couple of weeks without touching anything, and then it starts leaking immediately after starting it up.

[?Waldo?]

It is fairly common for a flange leak to look like a head gasket leak. Fix the flange leak before doing anything else.

[ndorian]

Your experiences are normal for that motor. In 5 years, I have spent almost as much time working on my 83 diesel as I have driving it. I am saving up for a low mileage 1Z. Get that braided line Waldo linked, or one like it. Check all coolant hoses. If they are original, I would replace them now. I ordered the rubber ones in a kit, and had no issues. Often you will discover a problem while working on something else.

I should say, until you have replaced quite a few components, your experience is not uncommon.

[damagd]

Working on this coolant leak now. Def leaking from the flange at least. I tried to tighten it down, but it's still leaking. I used the flange from my old head, but I think I will swap on the one that was originally on it. I think the only reason I used the old flange on the new head was because my mechanic suggested it. Not sure why. When I put the gasket on the flange, I put sealer on both sides? Was this wrong? Not sure if this caused the problem.

[damagd]

IP dialed in. All leaking fixed. Thank you guys for all of your help. However, there is a loud incessant tapping noise going on. It def has oil in it. Oil has been drained a couple of times and there is no evidence of any metal in it. I've put at least 75 miles on it since installing new head. When I was getting the IP dialed in, my mechanic listened with a stethoscope, but could not determine where the sound is coming from. Only thing I can think of, and not sure if this would have anything to do with it, but I swapped the camshaft from my old head onto the new one because they cracked the back of the cam on the new head when removing the bolt. The valves were never adjusted because the guy that sold me the new head told me that the engine was running well when pulled.

[?Waldo?]

Most common cause of tapping noise is pistons hitting valves because the valve timing is off.

Snapping the end of the cam is a total novice move. The camlock should never be used to hold the cam during sprocket bolt removal. A sprocket holder is the right tool for the job, and everyone experienced with these engines knows that.

[damagd]

[?Waldo?]

Rotate the crankshaft clockwise, and only clockwise, to TDC for #1. If you pass the TDC mark, then do not reverse the crank, instead go two more full revolutions of the crank back to exact TDC for #1 without going past it.

Remove valve cover.

Camlock should fit into the slot in the end of the camshaft and the slot should be exactly parallel with the valve cover surface.

If the camshaft is out of time enough that the valves have been tapping pistons, the cylinder head should be removed and each valve that contacted a piston should be replaced (regardless of how well it seems to currently be running).

[damagd]

[?Waldo?]

I use a small dab of sealant at the locations where the end plates meet the block. Otherwise dry.

[chrissev2]

[valvecovergasket]

[?Waldo?]

There are two coolant flanges on the head. One is above the flywheel. The other is in the center of the head between the #2 and #3 injectors.

[chrissev2]

[?Waldo?]

None of the coolant flanges are tin. The metal ones are aluminum and tend to last considerably longer than the plastic ones which warp, leak, and sometimes fail catastrophically and dump all of your coolant. The aluminum ones become pitted if you don't change your coolant frequently enough but even if you never change your coolant, they last longer than the plastic ones.

[valvecovergasket]

[damagd]

Question about camshaft locking plate. Is it ok to make one? Found many threads where timing tools were substituted. Deep socket for Inj pump pin for example. I have used a piece of metal I had laying around that fit pretty well. Used a couple of pieces of thin cardboard to snug it up. Not sure that it keeps the camshaft slot Exactly parallel to the head though. Wondering how precise that procedure needs to be.

[?Waldo?]

Yes, you can use any flat piece of metal that fits closely. Use equal thicknesses of feeler gauges on each side to remove play (some of the manuals explicitly state that) instead of cardboard.