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VanillaGorilla11
Samba Member
Joined: July 01, 2021
Posts: 73
Location: Gilbert, AZ
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 Posted: Sun May 22, 2022 2:17 pm Post subject: Re: Butter Bus Revival |
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Hey Everyone just wanted to come back after a long break from posting to report I have fixed my starter issue and have been daily driving my bus once again for the past few months. I am currently trying to tackle some frame rust while I have the time over summer and am just looking for some advice on what you guys have done and seen success with. I also have been noticing as I start prepping the frame for rust treatment that the frame seems to have amassed a lot of dirt inside the frames and am just wondering if anyone knows the best way for me to clear all the dirt out before I begin rust treatment.
Thanks again for all the help. |
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ToolBox
Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2004
Posts: 3439
Location: Detroit, where they don't jack parts off my ride in the parking lot of the 7-11
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| Posted: Mon May 23, 2022 8:58 am Post subject: Re: Butter Bus Revival |
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| VanillaGorilla11 wrote: |
| Hey Everyone just wanted to come back after a long break from posting to report I have fixed my starter issue and have been daily driving my bus once again for the past few months. |
What was the issue? |
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VanillaGorilla11
Samba Member
Joined: July 01, 2021
Posts: 73
Location: Gilbert, AZ
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| Posted: Mon May 23, 2022 9:40 am Post subject: Re: Butter Bus Revival |
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| ToolBox wrote: |
| VanillaGorilla11 wrote: |
| Hey Everyone just wanted to come back after a long break from posting to report I have fixed my starter issue and have been daily driving my bus once again for the past few months. |
What was the issue? |
It was nothing crazy just needed to take a step back and recheck all the wiring which is what lead me to find a couple of wires in need of cleaning up. After that she fired right up and has been happily chugging along since. |
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VanillaGorilla11
Samba Member
Joined: July 01, 2021
Posts: 73
Location: Gilbert, AZ
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| Posted: Tue May 24, 2022 5:07 pm Post subject: Re: Butter Bus Revival |
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Was lucky enough to pick up this oil bath today. Will post updated photos of my engine once I have it installed and mounted in the bus. Also if anyone knows the best way to clean it off without damaging anything I’m all ears. Thanks for the help.
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EverettB 
Administrator
Joined: April 11, 2000
Posts: 69829
Location: Phoenix Metro
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| Posted: Tue May 24, 2022 10:34 pm Post subject: Re: Butter Bus Revival |
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Do you mean clean the metal or remove that red paint?
Just cleaning it you can use any sort of mild degreaser - watered down Simple Green or soapy water.
The red paint you could soak those metal parts after removal in Castrol Super Clean and see if that removes it. Otherwise paint stripper?
I did notice you don't have a Bus elbow on the air cleaner bowl.
It's usually a right-hand elbow with 2 mounting bolts
You also have a left-hand side 63-64 bowl (nipple on right-hand side of bowl):
Are you going to mount it on the right side and do you have a bracket like this (this is the left side though)
?
If so, you can loop the breather hose around, like this:
If you are going mount it on the left, then you need a left-hand side metal piece for the carburetor connection:
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VanillaGorilla11
Samba Member
Joined: July 01, 2021
Posts: 73
Location: Gilbert, AZ
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| Posted: Tue May 24, 2022 11:34 pm Post subject: Re: Butter Bus Revival |
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| EverettB wrote: |
Do you mean clean the metal or remove that red paint?
Just cleaning it you can use any sort of mild degreaser - watered down Simple Green or soapy water.
The red paint you could soak those metal parts after removal in Castrol Super Clean and see if that removes it. Otherwise paint stripper?
I did notice you don't have a Bus elbow on the air cleaner bowl.
It's usually a right-hand elbow with 2 mounting bolts
You also have a left-hand side 63-64 bowl (nipple on right-hand side of bowl):
Are you going to mount it on the right side and do you have a bracket like this (this is the left side though)
?
If so, you can loop the breather hose around, like this:
If you are going mount it on the left, then you need a left-hand side metal piece for the carburetor connection:
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Thanks for the reply and the red paint does not bother me I just wanted to clean up the old oil and grime that has been sitting in it before putting it in the bus. I figured I could use some form of degreaser but I have no experience cleaning these yet and I didn’t want to ruin it so thanks for the advice. I did notice that I needed the bus elbow in order to keep it in place before installing it. So that leads me to my next question would it be possible to fabricate one myself or should I search for a bus knuckle to purchase? Any advice is appreciated and thanks once again Everett and everyone else for helping a dumb kid keep his bus alive. |
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mdege
Samba Member
Joined: January 16, 2018
Posts: 940
Location: Niederkruechten, Germany
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VanillaGorilla11
Samba Member
Joined: July 01, 2021
Posts: 73
Location: Gilbert, AZ
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| Posted: Wed May 25, 2022 9:49 am Post subject: Re: Butter Bus Revival |
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They’d most likely look a lot nicer too than anything I’d be making so that’s probably what I’ll do. Maybe I can find one at OCTO next week so I don’t have to have it shipped or drive an hour to pick it up. Thanks |
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EverettB
Administrator
Joined: April 11, 2000
Posts: 69829
Location: Phoenix Metro
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| Posted: Wed May 25, 2022 12:57 pm Post subject: Re: Butter Bus Revival |
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Ok, got it.
If you just want to wipe it down and clean out the inside where the oil goes then yeah, just spray it down and wipe it with some rags or paper towels.
I usually clean up the bowl if I am changing the oil with a spray bottle of citrus cleaner/degreased (Zep brand, big bottle from, Home depot or wherever) and some of those blue towels.
On those air cleaners the only thing to be careful of is if it has the warning text silk-screened on because a cleaner can wipe the text right off. I've done that, oops! 
Your air cleaner looks like it has a sticker on it so that should be fine.
Yes, you can probably find that elbow at OCTO for fairly cheap and also no shipping costs.
_________________
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VanillaGorilla11
Samba Member
Joined: July 01, 2021
Posts: 73
Location: Gilbert, AZ
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| Posted: Wed May 25, 2022 9:21 pm Post subject: Re: Butter Bus Revival |
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| EverettB wrote: |
Ok, got it.
If you just want to wipe it down and clean out the inside where the oil goes then yeah, just spray it down and wipe it with some rags or paper towels.
I usually clean up the bowl if I am changing the oil with a spray bottle of citrus cleaner/degreased (Zep brand, big bottle from, Home depot or wherever) and some of those blue towels.
On those air cleaners the only thing to be careful of is if it has the warning text silk-screened on because a cleaner can wipe the text right off. I've done that, oops!
Your air cleaner looks like it has a sticker on it so that should be fine.
Yes, you can probably find that elbow at OCTO for fairly cheap and also no shipping costs. |
I hope I can find one at OCTO which will be my first time attending and I’m looking forward to it. I’d much prefer to buy one there too because of one shipping and two I thoroughly enjoy meeting new people. Plus I’d rather get haggled in person than over the phone. Thanks again everyone and hope summer is treating everyone’s VWs well. |
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Buggeee
Samba Member
Joined: December 22, 2016
Posts: 4421
Location: Stuck in Ohio
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| Posted: Thu May 26, 2022 4:08 am Post subject: Re: Butter Bus Revival |
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| VanillaGorilla11 wrote: |
| ...I also have been noticing as I start prepping the frame for rust treatment that the frame seems to have amassed a lot of dirt inside the frames and am just wondering if anyone knows the best way for me to clear all the dirt out before I begin rust treatment... |
I probed with various objects to break up what I could, vacuumed with a shop vac, blew through with a leaf blower, blew through with compressed air nozzles, repeat, etc. Then I used a pressure washer, then the leaf blower again. Tedious but ultimately satisfying.
I believe the easiest way to coat the insides of frame rails is rattle cans of Eastwood's internal frame coating, which come with a 2 foot long flexible tube to spray inside cavities.
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(adopted out) 61 Turkis Pile https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728764
| SnowDaySyncro wrote: |
| Every setback is an opportunity to learn stuff and to buy new tools. |
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VanillaGorilla11
Samba Member
Joined: July 01, 2021
Posts: 73
Location: Gilbert, AZ
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| Posted: Sun May 29, 2022 5:11 pm Post subject: Re: Butter Bus Revival |
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| Buggeee wrote: |
| VanillaGorilla11 wrote: |
| ...I also have been noticing as I start prepping the frame for rust treatment that the frame seems to have amassed a lot of dirt inside the frames and am just wondering if anyone knows the best way for me to clear all the dirt out before I begin rust treatment... |
I probed with various objects to break up what I could, vacuumed with a shop vac, blew through with a leaf blower, blew through with compressed air nozzles, repeat, etc. Then I used a pressure washer, then the leaf blower again. Tedious but ultimately satisfying.
I believe the easiest way to coat the insides of frame rails is rattle cans of Eastwood's internal frame coating, which come with a 2 foot long flexible tube to spray inside cavities. |
Thanks for the tips. Sounds like a nice day of cleaning should get the frames nice and dirt free. |
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VanillaGorilla11
Samba Member
Joined: July 01, 2021
Posts: 73
Location: Gilbert, AZ
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| Posted: Sun May 29, 2022 5:14 pm Post subject: Re: Butter Bus Revival |
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Fun little hiccup today. Gotta love when your ignition switch breaks right before work and all the shops are closed tomorrow for the holiday so it looks like the bus gets a break for two days. |
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VanillaGorilla11
Samba Member
Joined: July 01, 2021
Posts: 73
Location: Gilbert, AZ
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| Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2022 6:33 pm Post subject: Re: Butter Bus Revival |
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First here is a picture of the bus at OCTO from the back of Mikes cherry picker which was a good time.
Secondly I got the bus joint I needed in order to attached my air filter and while getting ready to put it on I noticed that my carbs choke is not set properly to my knowledge. I am attaching some photos for reference but even when the engine is cold or as cold as it gets for a Southern California morning the fast idle cam does not drop down when I move the throttle arm. The bus idles and runs fine but I’d like to adjust it properly if possible so any advice is appreciated thanks.
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Buggeee
Samba Member
Joined: December 22, 2016
Posts: 4421
Location: Stuck in Ohio
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| Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2022 7:30 pm Post subject: Re: Butter Bus Revival |
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You will find a little notch in the edge of the electric choke that you line up with the middle of those three bumps. Loosen the three screws and you can pull off the choke to look at the coiled spring and the little peg that it hooks onto so you can get your bearings on how it works together. When the coiled spring gets cold, it contracts, coiling tighter and thereby pulling the pin rotating the valve closed. As it gets hot from the electrical current, it expands, uncoiling to allow the valve to open. The default position is the middle of those bumps, and it can be fine tuned from there if needed by twisting the choke clockwise or counter clockwise to one of those three bumps. The middle should be fine.
_________________
1966 Sportsmobile Camper https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0
72 Super Duper http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=672387
(adopted out) 61 Turkis Pile https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728764
| SnowDaySyncro wrote: |
| Every setback is an opportunity to learn stuff and to buy new tools. |
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VanillaGorilla11
Samba Member
Joined: July 01, 2021
Posts: 73
Location: Gilbert, AZ
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| Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2022 11:28 pm Post subject: Re: Butter Bus Revival |
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| Buggeee wrote: |
| You will find a little notch in the edge of the electric choke that you line up with the middle of those three bumps. Loosen the three screws and you can pull off the choke to look at the coiled spring and the little peg that it hooks onto so you can get your bearings on how it works together. When the coiled spring gets cold, it contracts, coiling tighter and thereby pulling the pin rotating the valve closed. As it gets hot from the electrical current, it expands, uncoiling to allow the valve to open. The default position is the middle of those bumps, and it can be fine tuned from there if needed by twisting the choke clockwise or counter clockwise to one of those three bumps. The middle should be fine. |
Thanks for confirming my suspicion of the choke not being set properly. To my understanding different climates need the choke to be set to different positions so if I am going to be daily driving the bus in primarily hot climates do I need it to be resting on the highest step before warming up or is there a better place to have my idle arm at? Thanks for the reply |
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Andrew oval
Samba Member
Joined: February 06, 2008
Posts: 78
Location: Oxford, UK
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| Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2022 12:28 am Post subject: Re: Butter Bus Revival |
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I would recommend fitting a hose clamp where the fuel pipe connects to the carburettor. I can see things going bad very quickly if that pipe pops off while driving!
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VanillaGorilla11
Samba Member
Joined: July 01, 2021
Posts: 73
Location: Gilbert, AZ
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| Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2022 4:20 pm Post subject: Re: Butter Bus Revival |
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| Andrew oval wrote: |
| I would recommend fitting a hose clamp where the fuel pipe connects to the carburettor. I can see things going bad very quickly if that pipe pops off while driving! |
Thanks for the heads up I’ve been meaning to go pick up some hose clamps so I’ll take this reminder and go get some today. |
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Buggeee
Samba Member
Joined: December 22, 2016
Posts: 4421
Location: Stuck in Ohio
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| Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2022 8:17 pm Post subject: Re: Butter Bus Revival |
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| VanillaGorilla11 wrote: |
| Buggeee wrote: |
| You will find a little notch in the edge of the electric choke that you line up with the middle of those three bumps. Loosen the three screws and you can pull off the choke to look at the coiled spring and the little peg that it hooks onto so you can get your bearings on how it works together. When the coiled spring gets cold, it contracts, coiling tighter and thereby pulling the pin rotating the valve closed. As it gets hot from the electrical current, it expands, uncoiling to allow the valve to open. The default position is the middle of those bumps, and it can be fine tuned from there if needed by twisting the choke clockwise or counter clockwise to one of those three bumps. The middle should be fine. |
Thanks for confirming my suspicion of the choke not being set properly. To my understanding different climates need the choke to be set to different positions so if I am going to be daily driving the bus in primarily hot climates do I need it to be resting on the highest step before warming up or is there a better place to have my idle arm at? Thanks for the reply |
I don't know what the settings would be for different climates. I only know that Bentley manual says to line up the mark with those bumps lol. The choke warms right up though in a few minutes and then is out of the way so to speak. Good luck on the final settings for your warm area. Someone in your town probably knows.
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1966 Sportsmobile Camper https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0
72 Super Duper http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=672387
(adopted out) 61 Turkis Pile https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728764
| SnowDaySyncro wrote: |
| Every setback is an opportunity to learn stuff and to buy new tools. |
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VanillaGorilla11
Samba Member
Joined: July 01, 2021
Posts: 73
Location: Gilbert, AZ
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