WTF, I am the chump and I am stumped

[qwerty]

I had the same experience when I was in college. My oval would die after a few minutes at speed. Would then start right up again.
Turns out when I had previously pulled the engine, I had used a pencil to block the flexible gas line hose between the gas line coming from the front to the hard line of the fuel pump. Turns out a conical piece of pencil lead broke off and would form a seal at the input to the fuel pump hard line - it sealed tighter when the fuel flow increased..

Took a few hours to finally figure this out...

[esde]

Agreed about fuel. Did you try running with the gas cap off? If the vent is blocked the pump will stop being able to draw fuel
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modok wrote:
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[D. Haviland]

While in your garage with it idling, hold the throttle at about 3,000 rpm. When it shits out, pull top of one of the carbs. I bet it'll be empty. Undo the fuel line on the in side of your fuel pump. How is the flow?

[coolairX2]

So the damn thing still is causing problems. The wife is getting sick of towing me home, lol.

To recap:
Idles and Rev's to 3000 fine while sitting.
While driving it will stall as if someone pulled coil wire and now seems to not want to restart. Presumably if I let it sit long enough it will restart just fine and idle.
Seems related to warming up. From cold I can drive for a few minutes. If I let it warm up it will fail sooner. Just barely made it 100' from my driveway after letting it warm up for 10 minutes.

Replaced:
Regulator
Coil
Ignition pertonix
Dist cap
Spark plugs and wires
In tank fuel filter and tap

Not replaced or checked yet
Fuel filter at exit of frame gas line
Carbs
Battery
Fuel Pump diaphragm

NOTE:
Took cap off tank while giving problems had no effect

[tcoop1100]

This may be out of left field but have you tried swapping out the Pertronix unit for points? Iʻve heard and read stories of units that have been in use for awhile going wonky and quitting when they get hot- after they cool down they start working again. I know, I know- they either work or they donʻt- documented cases, though.
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Aloha,
Tim
January '57 Sedan, April '64 40hp big bore

[busdaddy]

OP states they replaced the Pertronix, I'm wondering if it's the ignition switch, or it's wiring?

A small squirt bottle of gas to shoot down the carb throat when it quits will quickly resolve the fuel or no fuel question, if it tries to run it's fuel, if it's still dead it's spark.
Another roadside test is a jumper from the battery + to coil #15 (+), if it runs like that it's up front at the switch that's suspect. Make damn sure your electronic ignition gizmo is connected to the correct coil terminals first, no need to let the smoke out of the magic box by reversing it's polarity, usually it's + on the red wire.
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[coolairX2]

Yes replaced the Pertronix and it ran with one for more than a year just fine. I was stuck on an electrical resistance issue as it seemed to run fine until it warms up like resistance was building up or causing a short.

I will keep some starter fluid in the car though and give it a squirt to see if that is the issue, not confident on that though.

The thing is it will die and not restart so I tow it home then the next day I can give it a crank and it fires up immediately so the carbs are full.

[coolairX2]

Went through all the electric wiring and set screws behind the dash. Some seemed a little looser than I would have liked and tightened them all down. Took it out for a short drive and no incidents. It would explain the sudden loss of power as resistance built up or jiggled a little.
I should have checked that first as I have had those set screws loosen up before.
Will go for a longer drive tomorrow for the final verdict.

[Suboval]

Three things you should check:

1. Distributor condenser. What color is the the condenser wire? If black or green, replace with an original yellow wire condenser.
2. Generator to block grounding strap. Ensure it is properly grounded. Use a VOM to verify.
3. Transaxle to pan ground strap. Ensure it is properly grounded. Use a VOM to verify.

ANY of these three will cause an intermittent running condition.
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It all works on paper.

There's two things we learn from history:
1.) History repeats itself.
2.) We don't learn from history.

[D. Haviland]

[johnshenry]

[coolairX2]

Success Hooray Took the split out for an extended lunch break and I report no issues. I tightened those screws down years ago when assembling the Bug but I guess after all these years they loosened. There were a number of terminals that worked a little loose. I suppose that is why you don't see screw down terminals on cars anymore.

[Robert Chambers]

Certainly happy to hear success! I am almost 72 and have been saying for a while now we forget important things from generation to generation. I'm fairly certain old time VW and other makes of mechanics would tighten those screws in a general service because it was common knowledge to do so. Off on and hot cold cycles do things to wires as well as mechanical devices. My Father was a machinist/mold maker in the glass industry. I say quite often I wish I knew what he knew before he passed away!
I was fortunate to be trained by one of those older mechanics who was trained by German mechanics brought over to train VW dealer mechanics in the early '60s at Foster O'Rielly Motors in Millville, NJ.
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'63 OG 117 Herbie Replica
'56 Euro Oval Deluxe
'52 Standard Zwitter
'63 OG 117