Engine troubles after fan belt lost

[Themanfour]

So I was driving my 69 Ghia and the fan belt flew off at higher rpm’s. New fan belt is on, and can’t get it to start. Couple points of interest:

1. Engine shut down on its own the second it lost the belt
2. Car cranks smoothly but no life or sputters
3. All wires and hoses checked, working properly
4. Crank pulley has wobble, not sure if that is what CAUSED the fan belt to come off, or if it happened during (cracked crank) or if it has been like that for a while. Operates fine and spins belt, slight wobble. Still keyed and working properly elsewise
5. No fuel return line (been told I might need this or it will flood and not crank)
Might not matter
6. Compression has been felt in cylinders 1 and 4, have not checked the others
7. No strange sounds besides a very slight knock sometimes when cranking by hand
8. Messed with all sorts of timing, have tried it every which way, every combination

If anyone has any advice on this, that would be awesome
My limited knowledge is coming up with a few ideas, each reaching to some of the points but not all.

In my mind I’ve come to assume out of the possible options but none of them answer every problem
Crank bent
Crank broken
Flooded
Some wire somewhere is out


As said I am getting compression, spark, and fuel

[busdaddy]

Welcome!

Since it quit when the belt came off I'd be looking for a wire or hose that got knocked off by the departing belt.
The wobbly pulley and potential knock is interesting though, any noises or play when you rock the motor back and forth using the pulley bolt or alternator nut?, does the distributor turn when you crank the engine?
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[Themanfour]

[Cusser]

[Themanfour]

[rugblaster]

No compression......piston rings smoked. I had a guy look at me in disbelief when I told him what he had done.
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[Cusser]

[Themanfour]

[busdaddy]

[FarmerBill]

It is possible you didn't catch the belt flopping off and the engine stopped itself by friction, aka a "soft seize". I did it once to a Chevy pickup when the thermostat failed, the engine turned freely after it cooled down and would even run and drive, but it was obvious that it had been badly damaged. After you determine you have spark and fuel do a compression check, you may have warped your cylinders.

[Dale M.]

[Wreck]

to check if the ignition system is working , pull a spark plug lead , put a small screw driver into the lead and hold it off the manifold or case about 3mm to 6mm . Get someone to crank the engine over . It should have spark jumping from the screw driver to the earth point . If no spark , put the lead back on , then pull the coil lead from the distributor cap , try the same thing with the screw driver . If you now have spark , then the rotor is bad .
If you still have no spark then you will need to start checking if you have power to the coil etc . check points gap . Read up on how a points ignition works .

[nextgen]

Not the first time for this story from me.

I was 1985 and I was driving from Upstate New York to my Job in Manhattan. After 17 snow storms the highway did not have any place to pull over due to the snow plows making a snow wall.

My Gen light went on, figured I could make it about a mile to the the next exit.

Nope as I was exiting I heard a bang and the bug died. Oil was dripping on the road. MY belt broke.

Took minutes for that to happen at 9 Degrees and doing 60 mph.

Wish you luck.

Oh the good news is I had a reason to install my 914 engine, which lead to me writing my manual.
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[Dusty1]

[bsairhead]

Not pushing oil through your cooler is not apples to apples to not cooling heads.

[FreeBug]

An engine will turn over fine, idle and run, with a cracked crankshaft. Rock the pulley, listen for a "clunk".

Re-adjust the valves after an "overheat", things have probably shifted around a bit.

Are all wires, distributor, set right, proper cylinders and firing order? A "thumb" compression test doesn't mean much...if you have the tools and time, why not check 2 and 3, too?

Are you sure you're getting a spark? Does it smell like gas if you sniff the tail-pipe(s)?

[busdaddy]

[nextgen]

I totally agree with using good oil. Big difference in using a good synthetic

In 1989 I went to Mobil got my first T-4 engine. Will never go back.


Not use if it was the T-4 engine or the oil or the combination of both.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=764825&highlight=nextgen+joe+cali
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