Refreshing Otto (Imported T3 1.6 JX TD)

[jhax]

Finally got around to installing Otto's new fuel tank. Shiny. More work tomorrow.

[jhax]

Alright I am going out of my mind here. I have the valve cover off and would like to measure valve shim clearance. I cannot find a definitive answer to the method of turning the motor in order to get the cam lobes in the TDC position. There is no way I can place a 12 point socket (I assume 17 or 19mm) onto the crank bolt due to limited spacing in the compartment (muffler is in the way).

I have seen a couple of videos of the feeler gauge procedure, however in those videos, the person doing the measurement has one lobe pointing straight up. I have a german T3 repair book that states the both lobes should be pointed up closing the both valves completely. It also states that the measurements can be done on a cold engine, with Intake measuring 0.15mm-0.25mm and Exhaust being 0.35-0.40mm.

Finally, with the "warm engine procedure" it is mentioned to measure again after installing new tappets. So if one needs to access the crank bolt to turn by hand that seems like a lot of uninstalling and reinstalling of various parts just to get the procedure done. Not to mention that it is not advised to uninstall the valve cover gasket once it has been installed. I would appreciate any help regarding the matter.

Cheers,
Justin

[Zeitgeist 13]

It's been nearly three decades since I last measured/adjusted those types of valves, but I think I just measured whichever valves had a lobe pointing up. I used a sharpee to mark which valves had been measured as I went along from one end to the other. You can bump the starter to rotate the engine while doing this procedure. Do you have the lifter tool, shim pliers and spare shims?
_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[ALIKA T3]

Take the muffler out or remove the glowplugs out and rotate from the injection pump.
_________________
Silicone Steering Boots and 930 Cv boots for sale in the classifieds.
Syncro transmission upgrade parts in the Classifieds.
Subaru EJ22+UN1 5 speed transmission
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416343
Syncro http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...num+gadget

[jhax]

I do not have the tools yet, however I plan on purchasing them. Great idea regarding glow plug removal. I have to do a compression test anyway. I appreciate that information.

[jhax]

Tool acquired. I shall continue work this weekend. In the meantime. One of the photos I posted earlier involved a guessing game. Well the reveal was the IsoSchiebefenster and IsoAusstellfenster

https://vwbusforum.ch/uploads/default/optimized/3X...66x500.jpg

I acquired from a vender of the forum. I received a tip from a good member of the location of these windows and finally managed to get a hold of them. These are the plastic sliding and "safari" windows that have been mentioned on the forums. Unfortunately the hinged window cracked during transit and I am in the process of repairing it with weld #4 and the only item that I had on hand that would allow me to bring the cracked portion of the window even with the rest.

I received the tool from a friend during my bachelor party back in April. Two of my friends and I made a Mock Top Gear episode wherein we each had to purchase a shitbox for under $1000, and drive them to Moab, UT where a series of challenges awaited us. Me, being the smart cookie I am, opted for a 1992 Chrysler Town & Country and killed the competition.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gZp1-E85vJ8fTZFIOVXDwq1U1KG24WBS/view?usp=sharing

[Jeffrey Lee]

[jhax]

After many attempts I finally got to trans fill plug out thanks so much to the members of this knowledgeable forum! Eff that was in there tight! 1/2" breaker bar and a BFW but the bugger FINALLY came out! Thank you all for your knowledge and words of encouragement!

[jhax]

I figured out the intercooler pipe routing, all it took was 2 Saab intercooler pipes, the pipe going into the throttle body. I chopped the original T3 intake manifold to turbo hose to accommodate for the 90* bend out the top of the intake manifold.

[jhax]

One more thing checked off the list. After doing some research, I have managed to replace the LDA diaphragm. I used the following site to get some more oomph out of the ol' can so we will see how it goes.

https://www-bulliforum-com.translate.goog/viewtopi...x_tr_hl=en

I first took my initial distances, the first is the length of thread the socket is set at, followed by the length up to the collar.

I think I found out why Otto was being such a dog throughout our trip, might as well have been driving an NA diesel.

Big ol' hole.

Here it is all buttoned up, it holds vacuum again!

[jhax]

I finally got around to re-wiring the engine bay and running the new battery cable. I moved the battery to under the passengers seat and ran the power wires the same way they are ran in US vanagons. I took the negative battery cable and repurposed it as the body to chassis ground wire. One side of the negative battery wire is bolted tothe block theough the alternator bracket, the other to the chassis through the engine support bar mounting plate. I also installed the oil cooler.

[jhax]

Hello!

I got around to doing a compression test. I am using an O'Reilly auto parts kit through the injector holes. I am seeing 150psi consistently on all 4 cylinders 1.6TD jx. I know that that psi is low, however I also know that there are disputes as to the quality of these test kits and that so long as each cylinder is within 50psi it should be okay. Also the gauge holds at 150psi after cranking until I push the relief valve. Any thoughts?

[?Waldo?]

Are you using a diesel compression gauge?

The wear limit for compression pressure is 412 psi. Even adjusting for elevation, your compression is horrendously low. It won't start/run at that pressure.

[jhax]

I mean I suspect it it just your run of the mill gauge. I know the van starts and runs, or it wouldn't be where it is today. I'm sure it's fine. I really just wanted to check that the cylinders were equivalent. I did have all injectors un-installed while testing. I don't think that that would have any effect on the cylinder being tested.

[?Waldo?]

Post a picture of the tester and how you attached it to the engine.

[jhax]

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/performance-t...fm0/w89735

I used the VW adapter into the injection nozzle hole. I used the old nozzle spacers that were previously in the holes, I tightened but did not torque the test unit. All other nozzles were uninstalled during testing.

[?Waldo?]

That is a diesel compression tester. It should read relatively accurately. The injector adapter should be torqued (old heat shields are fine for this). I don't have a decent explanation about the low reading you got. The IDI diesels will not start and run with compression that low. Did you have anything blocking the air intake? Was your battery fully charged and your starter cranking fast during the testing? Did you spin the engine until the gauge reading stopped rising with each rotation of the crankshaft?

[jhax]

[?Waldo?]

Do you still have any of the video recordings? Can you post one?

[jhax]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Rv5EzyYVipYA6Yaz7