Electrical Issue

[HurpMcDurp]

Car was driving fine until the weekend, nothing was changed it began to sputter at higher rpm 2.5-3k. Gas is good, its surely electrical. (carb and pump where rebuilt) When it occurs its slightly violent , just dead on power and back to full power, as if when running at high rpm something electrical isnt sending a constant spark.

I've ordered a condenser today as I read it sounds related. Also I wanted to check into my distributor points, however I don't know what that entails, and seen below is my distributor with some odd aftermarket part? Can anyone tell me what I'm looking at here and what it does?

Side note, I had taken the distributor out during this issue to check it out, when I put it back in and used my timing light strobe gun. The light was not flashing with each stroke, very irregular. It hooks up to the ignition coil terminals. I know there are plenty of poor wire connections in the old thing, but any thoughts ideas aswell how to check my distributor points with whatever that piece is within?

Thanks folks, I really need this thing running by July24th when I get married and have out lil cute project on site.

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I call it Patches - My 72 body with the heart of 68..driven by a 1991 animal

[sb001]

Your points have been replaced with an electronic ignition module. If that thing stops working your car won't run at all, so the hiccup you are experiencing most likely is not that.
The condenser sounds like a good bet. Do you have a multimeter where you can take some voltage/ resistance readings at the coil?

Also, when you were checking timing, did you remember to set the engine at TDC for cylinder #1?
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I'm the humblest guy on this board.

1969 autostick sedan, family owned since new
1600 SP engine
Solex 30 PICT 3 carburetor
Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor

[HurpMcDurp]

@sb001

Ah okay, so the electronic ignition module has no points period to set? ( and it does run to an extent so good to know ) And yeah TDC for number 1, also I run the rpm up to about 3k and set its at 30degrees where I read somewhere thats ideal aswell it sounds best at that point. (still uncertain if thats correct)
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I call it Patches - My 72 body with the heart of 68..driven by a 1991 animal

[Q-Dog]

The electronic ignition module does not use a condenser. Perhaps the coil has failed?
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Brian

'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle

[runamoc]

a 'points' coil has higher (3.5) ohms than a electronic coil (0.32?)
_________________
Daily driver: '69 Baja owned 44 yrs - Plan B: '81 Rabbit Diesel LS Deluxe - Plan C: '72 Ghia
Yard Art: 2 Sandrails
Outback: '69 Ghia - '68,'69,'70,'72 Beetle - '84 Scirocco, GTI - Pair of '02 Golfs-
VW Wiring = It's just wires

[ashman40]

That is a CompuFire electronic ignition module. It replaces the points and condenser. There should be a black disc under the rotor that spins over the top of the module. Magnets in the disc trigger the module to fire the ignition coil.

If you plan to replace the module w/ traditional points & a condenser you will also need two screws. One to hold the points down on the plate they rest on (the black hex head screw holding the module in place will not work). One screw to hold the condenser in place (probably still on the side of the distributor body).

The CompuFire requires a stock ignition coil w/ 3-4ohms of internal resistance between the + and - terminals of the coil. Measure the resistance. If it is in the 3-4ohm range the coil will also work with points.


When was the last time you did a tune-up? Could the spark plugs and plug wires need replacement? How long since you replaced the fuel filter? What about the screen sock at the bottom of the fuel tank? If these filters are dirty/clogged it could limit your engine at higher rpms.
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AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[sb001]

[VW_Jimbo]

Can you recreate the sputter at 2500-3000, in the garage (no load)? Or is it only when driving (under load)?

If you can recreate in the garage. Take the air filter off. Get the car into its problem spot and spray a tiny shot of carb cleaner at the carb opening. If it reacts smoothly, you know you are chasing a “too lean” issue. If it bogs down, a lean issue is not it. Move onto spark or combustion.
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Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[HurpMcDurp]

Ive read all your comments /ideas, thank you. I am currently in garage so short here, but where in this photo does D- go onto the voltage regulator? It shows just the middle of it but there is nothing. A ground that holds the regulator to the body?

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I call it Patches - My 72 body with the heart of 68..driven by a 1991 animal

[ashman40]

In this glutamodo pic you can see "D-" at the top near the D+. Look for a dark (green?) colored screw that screws into the metal base of the VR. This basically grounds the brown D- wire to the body at the same point the VR grounds to.

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AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[HurpMcDurp]

@ashman40 / Dexter

Thank for this, I did end up testing it with that D- as the V.R. ground/body mount. I am getting the same results at the moment. The engine will cut out after 2.5K+ every over 5 or so strokes, not consistent, just GO, NOT, GO , NOT irregularity.

I had the generator out and tested the voltage, with a cheap drill I was able to spin it up to 15v to a multimeter. ( I thought I seen somewhere it could go as high as 50v, so maybe this generator is going out? ) the brushes and center shaft are clean, no binding it spins really smooth.

I want to say, I notice tonight when testing, the tach/dash light when idle was slightly oscillating light/dim. Giving it gas didnt seem to change that.
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I call it Patches - My 72 body with the heart of 68..driven by a 1991 animal

[ashman40]

[HurpMcDurp]

FIXED...one drive no issue

The Distributor seems to be the cause. The one that caused issues is the one with an electric ignition module show in this post. The allen screw holding it within was slightly loose allowing it to pivot on the single screw maybe a 1/8th of an inch. I assume at high rpm it would pivot outward loosing the magnetic "points" not points. I had put in my older normal distributor, which I did put on a new condenser. And I was able to give her the beans no issues or sputter.

To confirm further tonight Im going to put back in the first distributor now with that piece tightened. Just to double check that being loose is the issue or maybe it fried within.

-- Extras

When I had tested the generator, I was using leads D+ and D-, I did not include the DF during this so must be why I only saw 15v

My ground strap from transmission to body is good.

I will check further in the tach for my slight light fluctuation, the lights are not always on. ( also I did not make note to check for that last night with testing after new dist.)

My blinkers do not blink, just a steady "on" state with headlights, however my fuel gauge does aswell the generator light is only on at idle and turns off with some gas. My oil pressure light is on 90% of the time, very few times in the last 2 months I seen it go off. After the rebuild which I only drip a little bit of oil from the front seal..

Tons more to go, just glad its running again, I plan to drive it 20 miles one way for our wedding July 24th. I'll be tinkering on it every day until than might be back with more questions soon enough
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I call it Patches - My 72 body with the heart of 68..driven by a 1991 animal

[Eric&Barb]

[ashman40]