The Stupid Question Thread

[busdaddy]

Once it reaches that point vice grips are the only solution, you decide how mangled it is afterwards and if you feel like doing bubble flares to replace it.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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Слава Україні!

[Wildthings]

[Disko72]

Hi folks! I'm not a mechanic, but am always trying to learn. I have a 1972 Bay Westie with a Weber Progressive Carb. Ive noticed that I am getting a recurring "rattling" from the motor in 3rd or 4th, and a loss of power, when going up even a slight hill. I had one mechanic solve it, and I think he said it was something like fuel advance adjustment, however I am not sure. Quick question - is there an adjustment I can make on this carb that will make a difference? Or is it worthy of a full tune-up? Hoping to leave on a 5 hour drive tomorrow am
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1972 Deluxe Campmobile, Canadian, Pastel White L90D
https://vw-type2-id.xyz/mplate/22203074/

[Wildthings]

Sounds like your timing might be too far advanced and you are getting knock. If so you might kill your engine in short order. You need a timing light to time one of these engine well and the stock style timing scale that kind of fits around the engine cooling fan needs to be there. The best timing spec to use is 28-32° BTDC @3800+ rpms, hoses removed from the distributor and plugged. Since you have a progressive carb, you would not want to reconnect the hose for the retard function, assuming you have such, but leave the hose plugged off.

The engine can be timed without either of the above, but it would be a steep learning curve.

I would recommend you not drive anywhere until you get this issue taken care of. Samba member Germansupplyscott is in Toronto and may be able to help you out here.

[notchboy]

What version of FI does my stock 77 bus have? You know like - J-Tronic or LMNOP-Tronic? Which one?
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[Wildthings]

[notchboy]

[BusThang]

Hi folks!
It's been a long time coming but I'm finally putting my 78 Rivi back together trying to finish enough for a 2 week trip in September. I'm in the process now of putting the front luggage tray back on and can't remember what might go under it before I bolt it down. Should there be any spacers between it and the cab? Anything between the back lip and the metal? Putty strip or foam cushion? TIA
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1978 Riviera FI 2L Auto

Link to my build -

http://athensvwclub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1311

[busdaddy]

[BusThang]

Thanks Busdaddy. I read each topic in your link but there are no details about reattachment. I will put small rubber spacers between the roof and rack. There's about a 3/16 gap there. Just not sure about the back section against the metal.

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1978 Riviera FI 2L Auto

Link to my build -

http://athensvwclub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1311

[busdaddy]

A number of small rubber rectangles or washers along there wouldn't hurt, anything that's paint friendly and makes a small gap.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[BusThang]

[GS]

First child is on its way so i am going to use the child cot in the early bay. Does anyone know the temperature to wash the child cot in the washing machine?
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1971 Baywindow westy m-plate
1972 Bug

[busdaddy]

[Tahlequah]

1

971 bus thats been sitting in a field since 1987. Today was suppose to be first drive but i have rookie biatch issue. pulled rear down for brake rehab, smooth sailing until left rear drum/ hub refused hand tools. So i use my proto puller and drag it off w/ barely bending any brakes parts. All new cyliders, shoes, lines and notice left rear axle is pushed far back through the housing. ive managed to getback in enough to get some threads for the axle nut. Greaswed everything and tried several times but still no luck getting hub seated, i'm abt 12mm short to cotter pin the castle nut. any help out there? thanks so much

[busdaddy]

I'm assuming it looked normal before disassembly?

Since the puller pushes against the axle, and it's not held into the bearings in any way when the nut's off I'll guess you shoved it inwards a bit, have you tried tightening up the nut to pull it back out.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[kreemoweet]

I would pull the hub off to make sure the inner race of the roller bearing hasn't been pushed out of the bearing when you were
getting the stub axle back in place. Once that inner bearing gets
pushed out, it can be somewhat of a pain to get it inserted back in contact with the rollers. I believe some real damage could be caused by trying to tighten the axle nut with the inner bearing race out of place.

I'm assuming here you have the later-style outer roller bearing that has the rollers integral with the outer race.
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'67 bug: seized by the authorities
'68 bug: seized by the authorities
'71 kombi: not yet seized by the authorities

Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

[Tahlequah]

[creative native]

I need the dimensions of a dining table fastener strap & snap which secures the table in the rear hatch when not in use. This would apply to a '76-'79 Westfalia.
Thanks in advance if you're able to help.

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"The holy land is everywhere." ~ Black Elk
1979 Westfalia P27, California FI emissions spec. 100% VW fleet: '79 Westfalia, 2013 Touareg Lux (Toffee Brown/Cornsilk Beige), 2005 Passat GLX.

[notchboy]