crack around oil switch? Solved: leaking oil pressure switch...

[pastellgreen]

After rebuilding the matching numbers engine and driving around 1000 km with an absolute super dry engine, it started leaking. There is always a little wet oil film on the engine tin below the oil pressure switch.

First I thougt it was because I put more than a drop oil into the distributor, and in deed it left through the vent hole on the underside of the distributor. But know, this vent hole is dry again, the oil on the engine tin continues.
Having a look careful on the area around the oil pressure switch, I recognize some irregularities in the cast. Is or are these cracks around it?

The pictures are not the best I know, hope you see what I mean.
I would like to travel about 2000 km during the next time, I would like to fix it anyhow before the journey starts.

[wheel607]

You will NEVER get it clean enough not to leak. I have tried a muriad of cures. You name it, JB weld etc.. I drove mine from Texas to Va. with it leaking, many times. This spot has caused many in this hobby to stop driving. It has caused me to even pull an engine and try to get at it but to no avail. Really, you have two choices. One, carry on. Two, get a new case. Simple as that. You can cut it out and repair it but it will ALWAYS leak, once it has. Oh and when you tighten the switch up, dont tighten as much. That is what caused this and it took 1000 km to show up.

[raydog]

Yes, that switch looks like it is wound in pretty tight.
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Come on, It's not rocket science. KISS

[pastellgreen]

[Glenn]

They are casting marks.
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Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Member #1009

#BlueSquare

[61SNRF]

It can be hard to see clean oil on a clean engine.
What you can do it dust the area with Talcum powder and then run the engine. If any oil is even seeping slightly it will first show up as dark spots.
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-Bruce

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

[richparker]

I agree with Glenn, those are casting marks. I bet you’re blowing oil past the pulley, which is pretty common.
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[raydog]

From what I can see, it does look like typical casting marks. Why not remove the switch and check for crack originating at the case threads. Also, spray and clean the switch with carb cleaner or like. Pay special attention to the plastic terminal area. Go for another run, check to see if the plastic has any drips.
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Come on, It's not rocket science. KISS

[Cusser]

Again - with a leak of this "magnitude" - is it worth the bother and the risk of breaking the case there a "good idea".

So think about leaving it be....
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[maplesyrup]

I’ve known a few oil pressure switches to leak from behind the plastic housing around the spade connector.
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Bugger

[pastellgreen]

Thank you very much for your support!
Pulled the switch out, had much oil on a towel when cleaning its underside! The plastic with its connector is loose, I'm convinced it was a leaky switch.
It is my nature to panik and to first think of the worst case.
I replaced the switch by another one in modern style I had, and hope very much, not to have it screwed in there too much. Turned it by hand and at the end gave him a quarter to a half turn with a wrench. Also I used sealant and hope it will be fine now. Keep you posted. Thank you again!

[Cusser]

[viiking]

[pastellgreen]

[pastellgreen]

The green light went off very much quicker than with the old switch. That, even the old one had a more sensitive operating area (0,15 - 0,45, the new one opens at 0,3). So the old one was definetely harmed. At low idle the green light was glowing, and I was on sorrow. Is gone now.
The last point is that the thread stays clean (what it is now). Today it is cold weather and the short drive to work is perhaps not meaningful. I will post here, when driven a longer distance in hot weather.

[pastellgreen]

Have driven further 100km in hot weather on the highway. Engine is dry as a desert, problem solved.
Thank you very much for your support! Now I have a more difficult problem, but this continues in a new thread...